7stud said:

You sure about that? It seems to follow from your statement, that a cue ball wouldn't know if it hit one ball or a straight line of 30 balls. And further, a cue ball wouldn't know if it hit a brick wall or a down pillow. The cue ball would react the same when hitting those "racks"?

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He provided a specific range for his statement...and the pillow : brick wall situmation parameters would be outside the range

KenneyTran said:

Ebony yes but with tulip wood. Tough. This is what I have.

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Thanks Kenney! That's a beauty you have. I ended up finding one without inlays for sale on FB, but would still be interested in this one if the owner wants to sell.

Cue Alchemist said:

Oh ok thats more like it, you said $40 for the tip in your opening post. It is still nuts!

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In my opening post I said installed.
The layered tip was $40 installed vs a solid tip at $23 installed.

Jmw88 said:

100% vouch for Josh!

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Ty sir

garczar said:

need weight, shaft diam., etc specs.

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18.6oz, 13.0mm, black layered leather tip, 58-inches, straight, modified 3/8x10, signed and dated 1-12. Mexican cocobolo with diamond inlays, spanish bull leather wrap

Shooter1 said:

First off, I don't jump very well and am working on that. I've been using a McDermott Stinger jump/break for a number of years and it does OK as a break cue but I can't help but think there are much better options for a jump cue.
I would prefer to have a more effective combo jump/break cue so I don't have to carry as much stuff in my case but if a dedicated jump cue only is the way to go I guess that's what I'll have to do.
Does anyone have experience with a good combo jump break or should I just keep my Stinger and use it for breaking and buy a dedicated jump cue?

Thanks

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I have that cue and it jumps great. I seems like you jump fundamentals are off some. Message me and I can give you a free online jump lesson if you want.

I have an extra 30” 12.5 Mavro 3/8x10 modified. Plays fantastic, I’m changing to his 11.8. Of interested I’ll do $425 shipped in the lower 48. Caiden fighter tip. For additional $50 I’ll throw in an ebony Danny Sergeon made joint protector.

Kim Bye said:

Get dedicated cues for each task. A break/jump cue will always be a compromise and it will in most cases lean towards making jumping easy.

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^^^ This ^^^

With a jump cue, generally lighter is better. The "jump" portion of most "jump/break" cues is just much heavier than a good, dedicated jumper.

garczar said:

Unless i was told a lie they don't use different slates for the various pocket size offerings. Only difference is how the cushions are cut/faced. I just msg'd them to double check this.

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Look up.

Where are they manufactured?

Hard Knock Cues said:

You also can bring them back to the mech to correct. I think We've all faced this problem when starting out. If he hasn't been doing cue work for long I would hope he'll want to correct his work and learn from it. If he's unwilling then run and find someone else to do it correctly.

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Good point to think about. If you are satisfied with the overall work and he is less experienced it could be just that. He should have requested the butt to check the connection before giving it back to you. It could also need a facing as well. Another problem could be the new insert itself. Depending on the type of pin and insert, you can face it all day long and it won’t roll straight. A little chamfer on the insert can fix that issue. All parts and pieces, and all conditions need to be checked.

In the end if they don’t own up to it or the other work is not well done, find a better mechanic before it gets worse.