shag_fu said:

I kept missing to the left last night. The balls are dead straight. It looks straight, yet my cue is shooting to the right cutting the ball the left. https://youtu.be/vxdaH7yEUAQ?si=fe2g28DNb6Xt7voP

When I try the vision center stuff, it indexes a little to the left. Last night the sight picture seemed to favor a little to the right. Do I adjust the aim to adapt? Maybe line up better while standing?


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It looks like when you are aiming while standing your head is way left of the shot line, then when you get down you have your head right over the cue. You need to find your eye dominance (vision center) and when you aim standing your head should be in this position.

Like others said, you do seem to stroke straight through to where you are aiming. You can see in the video that you are aimed off to the right slightly every shot. The first shot was just more than the others. Look at where you follow through too - it should be straight in line with the donut stickers.

You setup with your chin right over the cue but I'm willing to bet you need to test your eye dominance (vision center).
Easy test - Lay a pool cue on the table, butt of the cue against the foot rail, laying it across the foot spot and pointing at 2nd diamond at head rail. On 2nd diamond of head rail put a piece of chalk with corner of chalk pointing at the pool cue. If you stand left of this pool cue line, it will probably look like the cue is pointed right of the chalk. Then stand right of this pool cue line, and it probably looks like it is pointed left of the chalk. There is one head position that your eyes will work together perfectly to see it straight. So lean over the table, over the pool cue, and get down to your normal shooting height. Slowly move your head (and body) left/right until the pool cue looks like it is pointed perfectly dead center on the chalk. Once it looks perfect to you, stop and look down. Is the pool cue all the way under your left/right eye? Is it slightly favoring that eye? is it slightly to the left/right of your chin?
Once you find this head position - make sure your head is in this position when you stand and aim. Then make sure your head is in the same position when you get down on the shot.
This test doesn't just find "which eye is dominant" but it also finds How Dominant that eye is. The test is easier if someone else sets it up for you. Then that other player makes note of your correct head position. While you shoot straight in shots they keep checking that you are correct head position and not reverting back to your old way.

Haven't watched this one yet but it does open with a squabble about The Rules. Definitely Old School. Calling the shot in 9 ball is required by Willie's rules.
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poolrod said:

Bump for a great cue.

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Thank you sir. It truly is. Want the hit if a Tascarella or Showman? Fraction of the price? Make an offer. You n

heater451 said:

If we assume that beginner/lower-skilled players usually need to work on physical aspects ("fundamentals") of the game, and then progress to-and-through tactics/strategy for mid-tier play, what is it that you would say high-skilled, or even professionals need to improve? I would guess "mental toughness" is something, but what else? Once a very high level is reached, is simply maintaining that level the biggest thing--assuming diminished returns for improvement?

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Beginner/Low-skilled players need to work on fundamentals because it's always basics first.
Mid-tier players - who have some sufficiency in fundamentals, learn and work on strategy/tactics as well as cue ball control
High-Skilled players (up to pro's) - need to work on and sharpen all aspects of their game. Fundamentals need to be stronger and more reliable. Pre Shot Routine needs stronger and more consistent. Mental game can be the big difference between players. But like others have suggested, it comes down to working on weaknesses.
If you are not sure of what weaknesses you have - do the PAT tests, the BU Exam or similar tests. Any areas that you do not score great on can be considered weaknesses to dedicate practice time to. Then later try the test again to see if you have improved. Repeat every month or so and you'll definitely get better and a stronger all around game.

The fact that the straight pool long run record holder said cueball last, uh kinda makes it an overlooked aspect of 14.1.
And "help a players game out" is in the topic.
And I never got on your lawn. I might have peed on it but never left the sidewalk to do it. So "Get Off My Lawn!!" Is an inappropriate request.

My method of banking and kicking (for 1 rail shots) is the 2 to 1 method. Its explained in this: Login to view embedded media It is step 3 in the video.

But the same thing works for banking. I will find the closest natural 2 to 1 line (as if i was kicking the object ball into the desired pocket). If the ball is on the natural line then I use this line. If the ball is not on the line then I need to adjust. I find the closest natural line and see how far left/right of the line the ball is. If the object ball is 4 inches left of the natural line (from center of line to center of ball) then I want to adjust 2 inches left on the rail with my aim. So why 2 inches? The system is 2 to 1, and whatever distance we go on the 1st rail we only go 1/2 the distance on the 2nd rail.

The keys to all banking:
Speed - what speed is natural table speed for that table? Firm speed shortens the bank
Spin - NO spin on the cue ball
Aiming - if you are off an inch on your aim you will miss by 2 inches at the pocket
Collision Induced Throw - if you are shooting a cut shot for the bank, the object ball will not go exactly where you are aiming due to CIT. AND it will pick up a little spin. If you are cutting across the line (cue ball going towards the shot line - crossover bank) the shot will naturally want to go long/wide. If you are cutting away from the shot line (cue ball going away from the shot line) the shot will naturally want to go short.

Most players would just use a little spin to counter act the CIT but then you are also getting spin that you need to adjust for.

What do you do if the bank is not anywhere close to one of the natural 2 to 1 lines? You can use spot on the wall for 1 rail banks/kicks. Going from one corner pocket - through 2nd diamond on opposite short rail - to intended corner pocket. You aim through that 2nd diamond and find a spot - something 12-15 feet past the table. Use this reference as your new aim point.

bbb said:

your advocacy for cue ball last

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Not advocating....just testifying. Speaking as a Witness. Smile and say, Witless. Shrug
I might not see things the same as a Jahova's Witness, I do respect their dedication.
The sensitivity to my message has me experiencing a flashback.
"YOU CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH" comes to mind.
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