Pagulayan and company's marketing strategy riffs off it’s the Indian and not the arrow. Theirs is it’s the Buzz and not the arrow.

Their lack of description of how their carbon fiber shaft is better than other carbon fiber shafts and Pagulayan’s posts refusing to speak about the shaft confirms AZers’ it’s the Indian and not the arrow understanding that shaft differences aren’t important. All that is needed is assurance the shaft is not defective and the company legitimate. Pagulayan has that and no more shaft description necessary.

Pagulayan’s buzz is the marketing strategy: price it so high to get attention; price it so high that customers figure it is high quality; show it in polished and beautiful advertisements, and associate the cue with a professional pool player. That is what is necessary to sell cue parts.

straightline said:

So then two or three pocket tournaments? Down their respective sides of course.

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The 7 ball that was played on those old televised tournaments with Fats, Mosconi, Puckett, etc. were like this. After the break, the non-breaking player chose a side of the table. They had to make all their balls in that side and the breaker got the other side. 7B is an incredibly fast game, but this at least lead to banking and getting position was more important.

There was a game called Starball that did a similar thing with sides of the table. There are scans of the rulebook online and you can play with regular stripes and solids. It's a very fun game that punches above its weight class. There's a lot of strategy and it's great for practicing banks.

Ken_4fun said:

I have bought and sold at least 300 cues. Usually there are no universal thoughts, but with two makers of cues this seems to be common.

Someone buys a Schon and loves it but eventually sells it and regrets it forever. I have buddys that bitch and moan about what a mistake it was to let one go......and then ask me to keep an eye out for another one.

The second one is Josswest (older ones) cues owners sand and mess with their shafts. I have bought many over the years and finding any shafts near 13mm is as common as seeing bigfoot. I have seen them widdled down all the way down to below 10mm.

My point my friend, if you let it go, you might join that first group.

Best of rolls,

Ken

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I'm in that 1st group and have tried really hard to get it back at any cost from the collector I sold it to. One of the dumbest things I have ever done.

lfigueroa said:

Seems like they change it every year -- the last one I saw was a blue measles ball with the Aramith logo inside a diamond.

Lou Figueroa

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sounds like this ball, which is my favorite cue ball!

That's a great way to celebrate your birthday, good for you!
I hope it all goes well and you enjoy the hell out of it!

@Bob Jewett is 100% right on this. It's not a secret. Closely observe what the CB does and tweak it until it's correct. He explained it very well but if you need more resources study up on what high/low and sidespin does. The wagon wheel drill would be a good eye opener, as would any drill to do with the tangent line.

On the break 1mm difference on your tip contact can make a huge difference. Couple this with the fact that most people try to absolutely smash the break and getting any consistency on where the CB lands is an exercise in frustration. Definitely use a template for learning because anything less than a 100% perfect rack also throws a wrench into the gears.

Once you understand how it works with a template and are consistent, IMHO you should stop using templates and do rack your own. Racking is a skill that is very under rated and more difficult than many realize. Especially since many tournaments not play rack your own, you will be at a huge disadvantage if you cant freeze the rack.

Another benefit to perfectly freezing a rack is that most people aren't used to it. They are used to a rack with a gap between the second two balls. That second row gap is default for 75% of players. If you give them a correct frozen rack they will struggle to get their break to work. The best offense is to rack perfectly because most people don't know what to do with a perfect rack. You'll often see them scratch or just break dry with a great spread. The gap in the second row is rack manipulation and many people have never dealt with an actually frozen rack. Freeze the rack correctly and perfectly and they will struggle.

Once you have your break repeatable, carefully check the rack, notice gaps. Learn what the gaps do. Even with a ref racking you will have to deal with gaps. It's like a science experiment in a way.

why not use digital pool?