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Take all of the weight out of your break cue

riedmich
Flakeandrun said:
I didn't like it (or the thought of it) light either. After a year or so hitting with my PBkai/Ignite shaft, and regularly telling people who suggested to remove it that "I don't mess with cues, I work on my action"

It wasn't that I hit them poorly. WPA/MR 9ball, 8ball, 10ball. All solid. I am actually thinking at this point that playing with the weight in was a useful muscle memory training. I was able to hit the 26/27mph mark previously with weight in, and I will measure max speed later out of interest (as I rarely break full tilt in any format).

My friend took it out while I went to get a coffee yesterday as a joke. I came back and was blasting racks of WPA 9ball. made 6balls on the break twice. Was also nice nostalgic feeling for me, reminded me of when me and my friends would turn each others trucks the opposite way round when leaving skateboards unattended at my local skate store growing up haha
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In physical theory it seems like that the cue speed is the more dominant factor than the cue weight, this means for example 10 % more cue speed is accelerating the white ball more than 10 % more cue weight. That's theory.

I think the anatomy of players are even more dominant than cue speed or cue weight. It would be to me much more practically relevant that the playing cue and the break cue should have the same weight (and perhaps also the same balance point), because this is the dominant issue if it goes about muscle memory. The final question is: Until which level of action + power given by the player into the cue stick can a controlled stroke result!

Going into this question, it will result into the answer that the muscle memory is the most important and limiting factor. Knowing that we perform much more strokes with our playing cue than with the break cue, the muscle memory is calabrated mainly during the playing strokes, not by the break trokes.

For these arguments my conclusion is: Weight of playing cue and break cue should be identical.
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The quickest path to a straight, repeatable stroke, and the best metric used to evaluate it.

H
garczar said:
another good check is to put the cb on the spot, shoot at center diamond and have cb come straight back to your tip. if your not straight you'll see it quick.
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Dr. Dave labelled this the "Most Famous and Useful Drill of All Time" (MoFUDAT).

You can also do a couple of variations:

1) Put a target ball in front of the far diamond/spot, a hair or a little more off of the cushion. The goal is to shoot the cue ball into it, have it rebound back, and return the cue ball as straight back as you can. I always considered it pretty good, if you can even get within a diamond on each side of the center of the close, end rail.

2) Put the target ball a diamond, or wherever really, on the same cue line. Shoot a stop shot, and have that ball go down table and return to the cue ball.


Obviously, if the balls are not set up perpendicular to the cushions, it will throw the shot(s) off, but hopefully your address at the cue ball will compensate--experience also helps, but if you're drilling with these, then be wary of getting frustrated!
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Chalk Habits and A Doozy of an AccuStats

Frosty
easy-e said:
Do you think all chalk is created equal?
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Clearly it’s not, but I also think there’s no great advantage gained by using these $20+ chalks over standards that have been around for a long time such as Master, Triangle etc.

I truthfully believe most of the exorbitantly priced chalks sales are driven by buzz of being the “hot new thing” than performance. At the end of the day, just have some courtesy and use a chalk of the color of the cloth you’re playing on out of respect of the room owner, seems simple enough.
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