Nogbert said:

will their returns work on a GC1? im assuming the ball return on GC1 vs GC2 are the same? (the wire rail style)

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First we have to establish if he has a Gold Crown II. There's a lot of misinformation out there about what a Gold Crown II actually is.

That being said, they are basically the same table except for aesthetics. I ran the drop pockets on my Gold Crown I from 8th Zone (Born Winner brand) until I converted the table to ball return. I'm currently using the gullies from 8th Zone (Born Winner brand). Both are great; heavy duty and do not mark the balls. If your shaft runs across the lip of the pocket, it doesn't transfer and rubber onto your shaft.

James9balls said:

Ball return

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The reason I asked is there is some modification that needs to be done for the drop pockets to fit correctly as they are the larger Gold Crown IV style. No one makes a reproduction of the actual Gold Crown I-III drop pockets in the original specs. The options are to trim the pockets so they extend under the frame or trim the frame. I went with trimming the frame.

No, it adheres well to epoxies and cyanoacrylates - the two most common glues used in cue building

3,4,6,8,10 and 12 inch extensions that you can stack......

I have...lemme know if you're still looking?

SBC said:

I will be there playing all non champions 100 to 500 a set.

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You want to play Ciappa this Friday $100 or $200 a set? He might be coming to expo, not sure if I am or not

lfigueroa said:

Well, yes, there's that as well as pig brain sandwiches at Schottzie's Bar & Grill if you're into that kind of thing.

Lou Figueroa

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LOL.

Hard pass on the brains and snouts.

Mission accomplished! Thanks shamadam. highly recommend dealing with him.

All true, sjm. I even doubt 50 players can make a sustainable living at the game. Not by pool itself.

Most top pros, as you are aware, also offer paid lessons. A surprising number also own pool halls - Shaw, Feijin, Chua, Hoang and Pehlivanovic immediately come to mind.

I don't see any reason to believe non-pool companies are about to start advertising in pro pool. Makes me wonder why Matchroom even bothered, to be frank.

skor said:

Looks cool but I find G10 to be too hard for breaking. Might even damage the CB.
With template racking with half decent maintained cloth and balls there is no need for a hard break, especially if playing 9ball with the nine on the spot. a hard leather tip will provide enough power with greater control. And definitely an overkill if you play on a barbox.

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So I play mainly on Diamond 7 and 9ft tables around me with the occasional Brunswick. I also bring my own magic rack usually and definitely don't throw my entire body into the break, but maybe stand up just a hair off the push. Even then a good 30% of the time the 9 ball doesn't move so I agree with a tight rack it's a bit less important, but I also hate using my play cues for breaking and can't rely on good tips on the house cues all the time so we'll see. I also have some micarta material (currently all canvas) but might get a chunk of linen or paper micarta and experiment with materials for fun.

Shooter1 said:

In either configuration above, when striking the CB, using center ball or max, a half tip above or below center, the hit/feel was identical to the hit with the cues original weight bolt installed. The farther you got off center, top/bottom/left/right, it had a noticeable hollow thud to it. This was on my everyday STL4 player. I also have an old SL6 and I installed it on the 6 as well and it did the same thing. I tried it with a Pre-Cat Pred, a Cat shaft and a Mezz 700 and the shafts made no difference.
.

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I’ve only played one session with my LTD after installing the budget billiards extension.
With that cue, the replacement bumper hasn’t affected the weight or balance point and the total length of the “insert” stayed about the same so I didn’t experience what you describe here.

It makes some sense in theory that when removing a long bolt out and leaving a hollow space, it will affect the feel and sound of the hit.

To be honest, if I would take my STL cue after the same modification for a session, I probably wouldn’t be able to say if I feel any difference as I haven’t played with that cue for years…
I’ve ordered some socket screws to fill the hollow part of the bolt space and hopefully get back some of the weight I lost by removing the bolt and fix the balance point shift.

Badpenguin said:

These two statements cannot possibly be true, quit posting AI nonsense.

If you are interested in something that someone with _actual_ intelligence has concluded... I have used both, the blue is different, dustier, dirtier, and I won't buy it again. They are not the same in my experience.

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You gave your opinion
I cant speak if you have actual intelegence
Apparently there is a contrary opinion out there