Discussion: Focusing on the cue ball compared to other sports

A stationary CB is exactly why I don’t drink alcohol until after I am done playing pool. 😆
In my best Big tournament performance, on day 2.. I had at my table a glass of water a cup of coffee and a beer.
The plan was water.....but a little calm or electric influence was available with a swallow. Just a swallow.
Cole confessed to the need to, "take the edge off." His alcohol ism did him in. RIP Cole.
Probably one swallow of beer prior to stepping to the table for the first shot.
First impressions are SO Important.
The rest of the beer was celebratory After the handshake. 🤷‍♂️

Spots on Aramith Tournament balls

They look to be too much cleaner to me. When blowing up your pictures the balls appear to be coated. That comes from trying to clean them multiple times in a row with full strength solution, especially when trying to make old balls shine like new. Not only will you get marks like that when doing this, the balls will not play right.
When I built my Diamond clone ball polisher and first started using it, I got marks like that. I really got those marks when I offered to do a set of well used balls on one of the bars I go to tables for them. Polished them once and didn't see much difference, so I polished them multiple times. Went back a couple days later and the balls looked terrible. Just full of those collision marks. Did the same thing On my good set of balls at home, polished them a couple times in a row and got collision marks like that.
While the balls will look shinny, if you look close they will have a somewhat ripple look to them. That is polish build up. I quickly learned to only polish once, and dilute the Aramith polish about 20% with alcohol, then only use about 2 drops per 8 balls per cycle. I polish the balls I use at home about every two weeks, they look like new, play like new, have no wax build up, and have no collision marks now.
Others on here use a much more diluted solution of Aramith, but spray it on and have good results, so are probably ending up with the same amount of solution on the balls.
So to summarize, by what I see in your pictures, it looks like collision marks, and or cue tip marks from using too much cleaner. You need to get that buildup off, manually or by playing a lot without cleaning them again. Then go to regular Aramith cleaner in small quantities. Do not ever put a drop of cleaner on ea ball.
Two drops per 8 balls is plenty. The balls in your picture have a very coated look.

Help Identifying Early Gina Que

My wrong opinion.

1970-1972 Ginacue due to the block letter GINACUE of that timeline
BR Titleist - definitely not an original Ernie-built forearm
Value Range: whatever people want to spend on it.
  • $2000 minimum, I think.
  • The nostalgia is what's going to drive the price.
  • Consider that this cannot be built again by Ernie.
  • Ernie was not big on sharp point cues
When I was at his shop he briefly showed me how he developed his way of doing his pointed cues now.
The outside black veneer is slightly rounded at the tip however the inside points are sharp, but not deep V carved in.
Very brilliant way of keeping everything lined up and symmetric around the forearm.

Sold Mezz 12.6 Ignite, United Joint, Perfect Condition for sale

For your consideration is a Mezz Ignite shaft in perfect condition, no dings or scratches. Still has original Zan tip (per the person I purchased it from).

Available for a quick no-hassle sale at $480. Payment via PayPal or Venmo. Will ship free via FedEx standard overnight shipping in the Continental US only. I will not ship internationally.

Will consider trades involving a perfect condition 2x4 newer Whitten, Jill Hawk, or King case.

Shaft Material: Carbon
Joint: United - Fits great on traditional steel jointed 5/16-14 cues (Joss, Tasc, Scruggs, Schon...)
Tip: Zan M
Tip Diameter: 12.67 mm
Joint Diameter: .841"
Shaft Length: 29"
Weight: 4.27oz
Pictures taken on June 8, 2026.

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Help Identifying Early Gina Que

Is that mold I see?? Have you checked the straightness of both the shafts and butt??
That much mold, if it is indeed mold, means a lot of moisture got in there. I'd be surprised if it's straight. I hope it is for your sake and best of luck w the sale!!
I'm not sure what you are looking at to see mold?
This cue shows zero signs of mold in any of my pictures.
I believe you may be misguided by the phenolic which is an early form of building material used.
It has white/gray colored linen in it unlike the phenolic used today which has black linen in it and a more uniform overall color of black.
About the only thing I would do to this cue is MAYBE install a tip on the tipless shaft. That is it....period, end of story.

Help Identifying Early Gina Que

I largely agree with this. The wrap looks decent. Any cuemaker worth his salt could give the cue a good cleaning
and you’d be surprised how good it can look. All the shafts look iffy. Thin, probably warped, not sure.
Certainly I would NOT refinish anything on the cue. What you have was done by the Master. Don’t rid yourself of some of his work. Reminds me of the guy that won an Olympic Gold medal, liked it so much he had it bronzed.
And it wouldn’t have to be a cuemaker to make it look better. You could do it in your chair watching TV and make it look presentable.***Do NOT mess with the wrap. Leave it alone, just wipe it.***

You could not pry that from me for $2000, it would take more. Just an opinion.

Will Prout
Haha....some people! 😵‍💫
100% agree.
Do NOTHING to this cue but a light clean up.

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