RunEmOut08 said:

I have a 30” Plain black collar SugarTree shaft at 13mm with ivory ferrule if your interested

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Thank for reaching out, but I'm short and a 30 in shaft doesn't work so well for my short arms.
I know that doesn't make a lot of sense to people, but I can't play right with an extension either
I have tried. I just go for the bridge.

GideonF said:

My guess is that the fit is tighter on a modified, but I can’t confirm that. I do know that with a “normal” shaft I can put a modified shaft on my original pin joint, but an original shaft will not fit on a modified joint (the pin is too big).

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Hope my location is near from yours, so you could use my work adapter for Whyte Carbon shaft. I make them fit perfectly and not loose.
Sorry about my location shipping fee is not good.

highkarate said:

4” flat is my preference. Been playing the game on that size pocket ever since I learned at Santa Monica house of billiards many moons ago. My local pool hall now “the cue ball” in Alhambra has 7 diamonds with 4” pockets. They play exceptionally. Hit the hole or get out lol

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A few different winters around 15-18 yrs. ago I stayed in Venice for several weeks and playing regularly at H.O.B....played O.P. Rich, Wayne, Phil, Danny 'Shades', 'Limo' Bob, Roger, Magdy, scientist Rob, and a few other guys who's names I forget....it was a great poolroom, I liked it a lot, even with those 4" pockets, lol.

Great photograph, HKC!

then now is time to realize that the break doesn't do you or anyone below about 700 speed any good at all.
so getting better at it should be spent getting better at position and ball pocketing.

Masters ... I haven't been sold on the boutique chalks yet

Looks cool .. good job

Maybe something like this if you have no access to a lathe

Side-Pocket said:

... Thanks for any help you can offer.

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You could try a slip-on extension to see if you like it. Some slip-ons fit pretty well.

WilliamK said:

With any method that you use, you still need to allow for throw which varies with speed/momentum of the cue ball and throw that is produced by english. ..

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In American English, the phenomena related to side spin are referred to as "cue ball deflection" and "swerve" and "throw". Throw, in American English, is the change in the path of the object ball from the rubbing sideways of the surface of the cue ball during ball-ball contact.

The question is, is it worth the cost of the customization on a cheap cue?
might as well upgrade the cue to one that already have an extension system.

Looks cool but I find G10 to be too hard for breaking. Might even damage the CB.
With template racking with half decent maintained cloth and balls there is no need for a hard break, especially if playing 9ball with the nine on the spot. a hard leather tip will provide enough power with greater control. And definitely an overkill if you play on a barbox.

WilliamK said:

With any method that you use, you still need to allow for throw which varies with speed/momentum of the cue ball and throw that is produced by english.

On full sized snooker tables, cloth nap has an additional effect - making it possible to roll an object ball around an obstruction.

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This all reveals itself in practice. Since you brought up snooker, one of the best throw revealers is slow rolling shots on a 12 footer. Cuts to the side are particularly good for long pool table cuts.

Ghost Ball, CTE, various track systems, sit, cit, deflection, swerve … etc, Damn!!
What’s it all mean? It means that all systems work and none of them work.
You pick one that doesn’t work, practice and practice and soon your brain starts making little adjustments without telling you about it. Your system starts working, you gain confidence .. all that matters, it works for you

With any method that you use, you still need to allow for throw which varies with speed/momentum of the cue ball and throw that is produced by english.

On full sized snooker tables, cloth nap has an additional effect - making it possible to roll an object ball around an obstruction.