Deflection question, explain how a stiffer CF shaft has less deflection.

Every cf shaft i've tried so far has less defl. than any solid wood shaft i've used. Some deflect less than others but i've yet to hit a cf shaft that i'd call normal/standard deflection. Even the cheap asian shafts are pretty low in deflection. BTW, deflection angle is the same regardless of speed. The initial start-line is the same, how long the cb stays on that line IS speed dependent.

A friend of mine made me a cb shaft and put a really hard tip on it. I paid him for it and later sold it because someone wanted it.
With a softer tip I would have kept it but at the time I couldn't find anyone to tip the thing, so I let it go. I did not like the hard tip
and stiff shaft combo at all, but I liked the weight of the shaft. Very light.

This being said less is not always better. Understandable is better.

What would You do?

What rotation game is 50 points? Putting that aside for a moment, the answer to your question is no. First, if it's a World Championship Final, then there is a referee presiding at the table. Would the referee tell the player they're shooting the wrong ball? Of course not. It's unethical for a referee to help a player. It's also inappropriate for a player to interfere with his opponent while at the table.

What would You do?

League and other friendly games, yes I would tell them. World championship, probably not, but thankfully I won't ever have to make that decision.
My team captain doesn’t consider league play to be a friendly game. Paying attention is part of the game. I don’t like losing on technicalities, but the rules are the rules.

For one-on-one friendly games, I would tell the other player.

Deflection question, explain how a stiffer CF shaft has less deflection.

I've played with wood shafts, OEM Schon in the early days, then Mezz WXC700's and Cat and Precat Predators for the last 45 years and am fine with them. I recently tried a friends Predator CF cue and it didn't do anything for me but granted I only hit about 3 racks.
As I understand it, a CF shaft is stiffer than a comparable diameter wood shaft and would/should therefore flex less when using R or L spin and therefore push the CB off line more, creating more deflection or squirt. Am I right in this assumption?

I understand end mass has something to do with it but if CF is stiffer than a comparable diameter wood shaft and the end mass is also comparable, it seems to me that a CF shaft could actually create more deflection/squirt than a wood shaft.

I've considered buying a CF shaft before I die but would like some opinions on whether my logic above is correct.

Thanks all.

In theory they have less deflection until you have to crank it up.
Then you have somewhat of a conundrum.

Pia Filler hates wood shafts

Not talking about warpage. What i'm saying is that if you had a good shaft and you played in reallllllly humid conditions its not going to play different. Warpage is damage that takes a long time to happen. The way a shaft hits/plays isn't going to change in humid conditions. Surface might get sticky but how it performs won't change.
In the video, Pia said that humid conditions "changes the shaft jump sometimes" (1:05)
I have no idea what "shaft jump" means, maybe just bad English on her behalf...

For years I've been playing with Predator 314 shafts, so I can't really say anything about old-school solid maple shafts. I don't remember feeling a difference in playability in different humidity; maybe it's there, maybe it's the table, I don't know. All I do know is that wood might warp in humid conditions and moving between conditions – not all of them, not all the time, but it could happen; it happened to me.

I had a Dominiak spliced shaft that warped, I had an OB spliced shaft that warped, and I have a few solid maple shafts that warped. Granted, I have more shafts that haven't warped than shafts that have.

Warping is a good enough reason for a travelling player to move to CF, as it won't happen; you won't have to go looking to buy a new shaft just before a tournament that you are not used to, and you don't need to travel with 4 extra shafts... which will not feel the same, as no two pieces of wood are the same and a used one will feel different than a new one. The only reason to have an extra shaft will be in case of a tip flying off, and two CF shafts from the same brand will play and feel the same.

So we have consistency, not just with the same shaft in all conditions but between numerous shafts if you need to switch.
We have durability; it won't warp or ding, etc.
These give a player a clear mind regarding the equipment while playing and touring, something that some of the folks here can't seem to understand.

For the amateur player who usually only plays locally, going to CF is a good idea, as the above reasons will just make the shaft last longer, so the high price now will actually be cheaper in the long run. I don't think that a player that already has a cue should run and get a CF shaft. I'm saying that if you are in the market for a new cue or shaft (for whatever reason), you might as well go with CF.

I didn't need to get a CF shaft; I have at least one Predator 314-2 shaft for any joint type I have in my small collection, even 2 shafts for some...
I was just curious about it, and I do think that they are great; they are the future.

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