Jaden said:

In his defense that is one of the most important stroke mechanics if you can figure out how to do it. Of course as the instructor it's their responsibility to make sure you understand it. I prefer to use, "let the weight of the cue do the work" or "carry the cue through the ball" myself.

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Yes he was absolutely correct in his advice in 1991 but , as you said, explaining how that should actually look like as the cue stick meets and goes through the cue ball is the key.

The use of video today makes all the difference in actually knowing and then correcting stroke flaws. Many of the best players today no longer use warm up strokes in their PSR- they lock onto the aim point and then come straight back and forward to the cue ball- today it is all about minimizing movement so that consistency of delivery and speed of stroke rules and minimal movement can also help with more consistent timing as well.

Deleted.

skogstokig said:

the first two days are boring in either format

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I wonder how long Matchroom will continue to have large fields when only a few fans will be interested in the matches the first two days.

For snooker, they have started having qualification rounds away from the main venue for some events. I think 16 qualifiers join 16 top seeds in the main venue for the "real" tournament. Running a 32-player single-elimination tournament is a lot less overhead and most of the matches are good "product".

Busbee Cue said:

Are these 1.5 x 1.5?

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yes

More photos and details would be nice. I hope this helps.

jbart65 said:

The earlier start of single elimination has pluses and minuses.

The good: fewer top players will get knocked out early in the loser’s bracket. There were two events last year in which SVB knocked out Ko Pin Yi in the loses side, and then Ko returned the favor in the U.S. Open. This won’t happen now. Virtually all the best players will get to single elimination. IMO I don’t want to see SVB eliminated early from the U.S. Open.

The bad: the first two days have a lot of dead money and there aren’t any compelling loser side matches.

On day three, the first set of matches will be uneven, but most top players will get to the final 64. Then the real games begin.

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the first two days are boring in either format

vintagecollectibles831 said:

Hi, way off topic, but a Curly Kielwood shaft just came to mind, that I would highly recommend you trying out (if you can spare $400-$500, lol). To be honest, I am not even sure what these shafts cost, but a cue maker in the North West named Bob Danielson builds a Curly Kielwood shaft, that I believe he builds in a very unique way. He laminates the shaft into 8-10 Pie Shapes pieces, and puts them together. I am actually not sure how he builds the shaft, but Pro pool player Justin Bergman uses (or at least was using, for a long time) one of BD's Curly Kielwood LD shafts. I have no idea what they cost, but I can't imagine that they are cheap. Might be in the $400 range though.

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I know Bob well. I've owned his SS shafts in the past. Very good product. Honestly I'm pretty happy with my AVID shafts right now.
Thank you for the communication.

SmoothStroke said:

I can teach it in 5 minutes, 3 minutes once I have the 4 red beam lasers set up.
It’s idiot proof once you know how to use it.
It requires zero brain power and of course bring your straight stroke.

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Video?

Fantastic collection, Willy!

There are some new one to me in there. Thank you so much for sharing the photograph, sir.

Scrunge19 said:

Good run. I wonder if he’s going to screw around and not let anyone see it until long after people stop caring. He has to realize that people only care about these runs for a few weeks after they occur and then it’s back to being an afterthought.

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Oh my, it really must take a pool fanatic to be able to sit there and watch a player run balls for 3 hours, lol.

Nogbert said:

I have not bought any paint yet but as per your recommendation I was going to go for a semi-gloss enamel of some sort. I will take all the aprons off, but was hoping to sand-in-place the legs and stretcher. I’ve seen some really impressive results using a roller and would probably do that vs using a spray gun.

The table right now is the “gold” variant color so I would be painting over that on the aprons

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The issue with doing it the way you are proposing is the end result. If the right products are used, you can achieve a very nice finish with a brush and roller but the end result will only be as good as the surface being painted. When I did mine, there were many scratches and gouges in the 60 year old aprons and pedestals which required filling and sanding. The biggest challenge you will face brushing/rolling is going to be priming; whether you take it down to bare wood or not. The correct top coat applied with the correct applicators can yield a smooth finish sans brush strokes and orange peel but you cannot achieve that with primer because primer doesn't have any self leveling properties. This will result in multiple steps of priming and sanding to get a surface suitable for top coat to yield the best finish. It all depends how you want it to look when finished. You don't necessarily have to take it all the way down to bare wood but you will have to use a quality primer, preferably oil based because you will be covering 60 year old lacquer. If you are planning to use an acrylic or alkyd top coat, priming is necessary. As mentioned above, the end result is only going to be as good as the prep. FWIW, I'm in the coatings industry. I'd recommend HGTV by Sherwin Williams Cabinet and Furniture Paint which can be purchased at Lowe's. It's a high quality, DIY friendly acrylic urethane enamel with excellent leveling qualities. A very smooth and hard finish can be achieved using a Purdy Parrot Roller Cover and Purdy Nylon Brush. I've seen it with my own eyes. It's comparable to the Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel I used at about half the price. Had the HGTV by SW Cabinet and Furniture Paint been available when I did my table, I would have used it.

Best of luck. Hope your project turns out good.

JPB2 said:

Check Dr Dave’s site for videos. And the one above. Push shot and double hit are different. Dr Dave’s site linked a Mike page video too.

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Thank you. I whatched and I changed my perception as slowmo video made me understand the physics.
Cue didnt have prolongued contact nor double hit.
When balls are frozen they behave as one object so they move together.
So, not a foul.

j2pac said:

I tried one of the Lucasi KW hybrids. I found the finish to be somewhat "tacky" for lack of a better word.

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Hi, way off topic, but a Curly Kielwood shaft just came to mind, that I would highly recommend you trying out (if you can spare $400-$500, lol). To be honest, I am not even sure what these shafts cost, but a cue maker in the North West named Bob Danielson builds a Curly Kielwood shaft, that I believe he builds in a very unique way. He laminates the shaft into 8-10 Pie Shapes pieces, and puts them together. I am actually not sure how he builds the shaft, but Pro pool player Justin Bergman uses (or at least was using, for a long time) one of BD's Curly Kielwood LD shafts. I have no idea what they cost, but I can't imagine that they are cheap. Might be in the $400 range though.