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Rosewood vs cocobolo

Coos Cues
Kim Bye said:
That would itch and quite possibly be deadly. Woodworkers back in the day was terrified of getting large splinters from certain woods as they are quite toxic to our body and it could result in sepsis or anaphylactic shock, rosewood and ebony are among the species that can trigger this..
As for the hit Cocobolo is a heavy and dense wood, so it's almost always cored and generally with quite a large core to get the right weight and balance. A 5/8" core won't do and even a 3/4" core can be a little small. Some makers use 25/32" which is getting pretty close to that final .840-.850" joint collar diameter. I'm not saying the wood dosn't have an impact, it surely do, but most of the cues you play with, the wood you see on the outside is quite hollowed out, that goes especially for dense woods like certain rosewoods, certain types of ebony and even woods like katalox, purpleheart, DIW and so on.
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Purple heart is for the most part almost the perfect density for a 18-19 ounce cue without extra weight. It's also so stable I would say it's one of the few woods I would run solid without coring if I had a nice piece of it.
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Rosewood vs cocobolo

Coos Cues
jlrowe said:
Depends on what type of player you are and what hit you prefer. Maple for the player that likes a subtle feedback on contact. Straight grain maple forearm i really think has the best feedback of the maples for subtle. If you are not a feedback or vibration person and likes more of a solid dense feel when you strike the ball go with Ebony or Cocobolo. Cocobolo you can almost feel the dense oily content when you hit with it. more dead. Good for those that would prefer a carbon fiber shaft. Ebony is ok, but bocote in my opinion has a lot nicer hit, sound and feel than either of the three.
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The problem with maple is unless you core it or match it with some really dense wood it's just too light for a cue. So you end up putting steel into the build somewhere to compensate and the steel (or brass) then dictates the hit as well as the balance.
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Steel Joint vs. non-steel Joint (Phenolic / Juma / Elforyn / Ivory) – Which Do You Prefer?

Bavafongoul
Chris said:
The cueball is already gone by the time any vibrational waves travel back from the butt to the tip. The cueball doesn't "know" anything about the construction of the butt, whether it's made from cocobolo, bacote, purpleheart, or a broom handle. The butt has a large effect on the feel for the player, but it has zero effect on cueball movement. To credibly claim otherwise, one would need to explain how information about the butt made it back to the cueball during the hit.
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Yes, the cue ball has already started moving before the tactile feel becomes discernible.

Duh……and your point would be…….what? That the player can’t feel anything that is
discernible about hitting the CB too hard or using too much or not enough follow or
a stop shot that didn’t? Feedback helps a player determine what to adjust to produce
the desired results on a consistent basis. You learn what to change and do differently.

The vibration does not occur simultaneously with the tip contact on the CB. It directly
results from the energy used to stroke the cue ball that gets transmitted. It means the
CB started moving with stroke contact that transmits up the cue shaft upon the tip hit.
It makes sense to me. I felt it in my golf & softball swings and especially tennis racket.
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Why are there so few black pro players..?

Coos Cues
BobbyD963 said:
Hank Aaron, Willie Mays, Roberto Clemente, Bob Gibson, Willie Stargell were black and they all played in either the 50s 60s or 70s. Ken Griffey Jr and Barry Bonds played in the 80s-2000s. Not only are all those players black, they’re some of the best baseball players the game has ever seen. Less and less black professional baseball players today than ever before though, most players are Dominican.
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I'm 67 and black baseball players did not arrive in my lifetime. They were a force by the time I started school.
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How Can I Make My Pool Table Cloth Play Like It's Worn? 😂

3kushn
jlrowe said:
Well how much chalk do you have? Get about a dozen cubes. smash it up to it is a powder. Put it in a baby powder bottle. Squeeze it out all over the table and rails. Use a table brush and brush the table and rails good to even out the chalk dust. That should do it pretty quick or you could use a cleaning brush with stiff nylon bristles that way it will nap the fibers up some.
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Quickest way to get your table playing like a normal pool hall or bar table.

Add dirt and debris to the cloth, and NEVER clean the balls. Ever!!
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8 ball strategy ?

SeniorTom
It's probably been asked before in some form or another, but I couldn't find it. I'm a pretty good shot , around a 500 Fargo , that wants to take the next step in my game. I seem to get in a self-imposed trap playing 8 ball too often, clearing off 6 or 7 balls and not finishing out . Turning the ball over at that point is either a run out or a game of keep away by my opponent , or safeties that hamstring me. When you approach a table on your shot, before you start shooting do you have a strategy that you use besides pocketing a few easy balls and then stalling? Do you look at the table and say I'm not going to make any balls, , or maybe one or two balls and then play a safety , knowing full well you could clear off a few more balls but not run out? What is your strategy in such situations? It would be nice to hook up with an advanced player sometimes and pick their brain on such approaches to the chess game called 8 ball. Sorry if this is redundant .
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