No, the six would not qualify as one of the last two in this scenario. This is a spot that is less than it might sound, because an astute player giving this spot will sometimes knock the eight ball in on a pushout to, effectively, reduce the spot.

go with your instincts
if the seller doesnt want you to use paypal goods and services i would walk away
just my opinion

My bar stools!

My paneling is installed and looks good. My builder took a week long vacation at a beach house on Boliver peninsula and fished in galveston bay so it slowed my pool hall construction but my AC guy is gonna install my minni unit monday and all thats lacking is tape and floating my ceiling plus a small amount of electrical work! When the ceiling is done I'll have carpet installed and call billiard factory to bring and set up my table! Plus i ordered two swivel bar stools off the internet, if i like them I'll order a couple more.

garczar said:

You don't even see world class players doing this, if you have a break gimmick you should never lose. I've played and watched a ton of 10b and i never see many balls made much less B-n-r's. And you have to smoke em to open the rack. Can't powder-puff the break. Just a better game than 9b for better players.

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Actually both SVB and Corteza seem to have figured it out. One of the reasons you don’t see it in pro events much, at least the end balls going 4 rails, is because of the new cloth always utilized in the events. It takes a few days of play before the 4 railers start happening regularly.

You’re right, you do have to smoke it, and you have to have a really accurate break stroke, being able to hit the cue ball dead square center for this to occur. It’s not really a gimmick as much as a practiced technique. Place cue ball about 2” to the right of the spot, hit the cue ball dead square in the middle, hard AF, especially on cloth that’s had play and watch it unfold for you. Added bonus is the 1 ball will drift to the area of the left corner pocket of the kitchen giving you a starter. Give it a go, check it out.

Bob Jewett said:

Another point for the OP to consider is that if you get spin on the object ball, it will change the bank angle and can be more than enough to miss (or make) the shot. Here is a demo of this idea. The eight ball is on the spot. The nine ball is exactly in the middle of the normal bank path. By using left or right side spin on the cue ball you can get right or left side spin on the object ball and then bank the eight ball on either side of the nine ball and still come back to the pocket.

Sometimes you get side spin on an object ball just by it being a cut shot. In the diagram, you put side spin on the cue ball to transfer some to the OB.

View attachment 517791

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Yes, this is the hardest part of banking.

I ordered 3 pieces of Taom v10 in blue color. 20$ plus apiece, talk about inflation lol. Also ordered a bowtie scuffer so i have two of them now. Plus i ordered some powder. Thanks for the input people!

Still looking.

Frosty said:

How does this really solve anything though? A lot of younger players in the hall I play in play 10 ball. When I asked the best of them why, he pointed to the break as a reason, saying the break in 9 ball was too easy.

I then showed him how to break a rack of 10 ball, where if you know where to break from, and with the proper pop, a 10 ball rack with a template will have at least 1, if not both balls behind the head ball going in the sides, and the corner balls of the rack going 4 rails to the corners, every time. He just stood there slack jawed.

I don’t think there is a solution for the break unless the game is moved to full rack 15 ball rotation.

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I like the 9 on the spot break and this is why.... Let me preface this with this, prior to the wnt 9 ball rules, I always preferred 10 ball. This is the main reason I went back to liking nineball more. The 9 on the spot from the box break rule requires control. It is both speed and accuracy sensitive. It's not break as hard as possible and hit the right spot and it's not hit the right spot at any speed like 9 ball 1 on the spot.

It requires both. You can choose what you want to do, but it still requires finesse. You can aim a little thinner with more draw and hit it medium hard, or you can hit it a little thicker and break harder, but you have to hit it right either way.

It's not a sure thing and requires more skill to get it right.

garczar said:

Its a Brunswick Paramount. Made from '39-'42. Very cool table. https://brunswick.pastperfectonline.com/library/74158E5E-D9D8-48FA-94F4-181036666170

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Thanks for the info I've been looking everywhere. My father inlaw passed recently and he thought it was worth a bundle, I can't seem to get much interest without pockets..

maha said:

i do agree the light colored greenish chalk is slightly softer and goes on easier and you use less because of it.

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fastone371 said:

The light green Masters, there is something different about that stuff.

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Buy a cube of Triangle, made by Tweeten as well. You’ll find the same soft consistency that the light green Masters has, it’s identical.

UPS TRACKING #
1ZH8695G4205652353

Rusty in Montana said:

Someone at the sign shop has a sense of humor at least .

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Naw, more than likely just not very smart.