I'm glad that I'm not the only one that needs to take that seriously…

Probably about three balls apart and dead straight. About a half tip or so of follow as if my only goal in life is to make the cue ball itself. Roll it...

bradsh98 said:

The new Dynasphere Challenger ball sets are finally available. We've been using a set on our showroom/practice table, for the past couple of weeks. In fact, it's the open set that's pictured here. I'm very impressed with this set, and how clean the cue ball stays. Despite the use that they've seen, we didn't even need to run them through the polisher, prior to photographing.

With a MAP price of $131.39, this set is a great value.

View attachment 910286
View attachment 910287

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Looks better than the set they are peddling for WNT events

hmm...

I recall Nelsonite is or contains carcinogens. IOW, circa 50s chemicals. These stabilizers I believe, allowed manufacturers to crank stuff out and guarantee straightness. Probably not the whole story but straight shafts are high on my list of stick qualities.

GideonF said:

I like that system where the balls are near a rail but I find it hard to hit balls in the middle of the table. Maybe it’s just me.

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check your pm

bbb said:

plus 2 system has less variables and if you get familiar to the ball paths
you can pick your target

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I like that system where the balls are near a rail but I find it hard to hit balls in the middle of the table. Maybe it’s just me.

Lowell said:

Carlo Biado switched to a Revo (temporarily) and it didn't make his game better

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He probably switched for few days and went with the same thing i've said in the first post.

"Oh i didnt like the sound" or "I didn't like the feel" -- these guys usually hit one inside english shot and then miss it with a CF and go something along the lines of "Oh with wood I make this everytime with feel, i'm probably a wood player", its the ultimate thing that prevent them from advancing to the higher tier, biado would probably dominate the entire world if he switches with convection...but if he go with it for few days and go "no no i dont like the feel", then he'll be stuck in the past, winning tournys ofcourse cause he's great but very rarely, maybe one big tourny a year, instead of what he would have do if he switches, he'd probably dominate with 5-6 tournys a year.

skor said:

Actually, Yapp's biggest achievements in the past year were with a wooden shaft, before he switched to CF again. (He used CF, went back to wood and now back to CF - different type)

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Not really he was struggling, he was a great player with a bit of struggle that wins sometimes very rarely. I've been following him since he first started...now he's a different player, competely.

GideonF said:

So what is a better approach? Trial and error guesswork? If you have a better system please share it.

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plus 2 system has less variables and if you get familiar to the ball paths
you can pick your target

u12armresl said:

SAJ used to have Reed Pierce and Mark Cavalier as his 2 sneak up on somebody players. Funny for how good Reed plays/played, he could sneak around and play for big $$$.

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How good was Mark Cavalier. I played him once in a 9 ball tournament, hill-hill, Mark missed the 8 ball so bad it went three rails in a hole and had straight in on the 9. God, I hate 9 ball

Thanks for your analysis and advice Chopdoc!

I did notice the grain, but it's parallel after the first 6" so probably why it roles and shoots well. How do you tell synthetic wrap under the coating and why would it make any playing difference? As I said, I actually prefer unwrapped or clear-coated like Meucci. But it has a lot of features beyond a typical cheap cue and I'm curious as to the maker if anyone knows.

i will stick my neck out first....
if the table didnt have a roll off
i would place cue ball about 1/2 diamond distance from the object ball
and i would hit it pocket speed with a rolling cue ball

if the roll off was bad
again half diamond distance
i would shoot it firm enough to draw back to the head rail


one last thought
which i think is the best is to set it up as a 3/4 ball cut to the left
pocket speed
so the cue ball travels to the right side rail leaving a tough shot to his pocket if i miss

I just ordered a BOMB break and playing cue from Gulyassy. Ebony forearm with a white and black ebony handle and 4” extension. The playing cue is 60” with an even split. I can shoot every shot on a 7’ table with it. I add the 4” extension and can shoot any shot on a 9’.

The shaft is kielwood, 30” with a 12.5mm tip and ordered with a stiff feedback.

I wanted something classy but not over the top and something to make my main player. I ordered 5 matching rings on the butt which I debated back and forth on. I’m glad that I won’t have to care about matching shaft rings in the future.

I opted not to go with a white ring on the butt cap.

Overall, I couldn’t be more pleased. I absolutely love how the cue plays. I have been most impressed with the Jump/Break cue.

The jump/break does separate at the upper handle but I always leave it screwed in. I can jump with the full cue with control as easily as I can with my air rush. I love grabbing my break cue, stepping up to the table and executing a jump without any unscrewing or requiring of a short cue. I’m very happy with how it breaks but mostly surprised at how well it does jumping with the full cue.

bbb said:

i think there are so many adjustments and compensations that the system is really less than great
jmho
icbw

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So what is a better approach? Trial and error guesswork? If you have a better system please share it.

i think there are so many adjustments and compensations that the system is really less than great
jmho
icbw

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