dquarasr said:

ya plug the holes and redrill the ball to match another person’s hand.

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A lot of people, majority don't like to play with plugged balls, think it affects the rev rate.

MattPoland said:

So in other words… HAMBALAIPSLWSSC

Not sure if it has the same ring to it.

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I'm sure that if you spend just a little time with the acronym you can produce HAMBURGERHELPER.

CarPool said:

Now, width at 50% of length is ideal. At 49-3/4 by 98-3/4 the width is 49.874% of length. That's less than 13/100ths of one percent different. How good do you have to be before that imperceptable difference in size starts to effect your game?

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Even the best pros in the world wouldn't be affected by this. The difference is so minute, that any resultant effect on play could easily be passed off as being the result of any number of factors... Humidity, temperature, cloth tension, etc... But, people on this forum tend to be purists, and will often overstate the importance of this somewhat trivial detail. For what it's worth, I work on a LOT of pool tables, from a number of different manufacturers. There aren't many that measure an EXACT 2:1 ratio.

CarPool said:

But back to my question. According to numbers from a recognized expert my cushion is where it should be in terms of nose height and top corner height. My only problem is that the K55 cushion is bigger than the Monarch cushion and pushes the nose 1/8" farther out onto the table, thus reducing the overall playing size 1/4". The subrail has two facets to it, the one that the cushion glues to and the one under that. Seems to me that all I need to do is to trim 1/8" off both of those facets which will move the cushion 1/8" away from the center of the table and give me the correct playing surface size. I've looked all over for a description of the subrail modification to use K55 cushions of an old Gold Crown and for whatever reason the people that do it seem to refuse to talk about it other than to warn about what a complicated procedure it is. I really can't see why it would be any more than what I have described here. I've been wrong before, and if I am here I would appreciate it if someone could explain to me how.

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Check out this thread, for images of my tooling, specific to modifying Brunswick sub-rails

When replacing the cushions on any pool table, the most critical factor will be ensuring that the cushion is mounted at a consistent height. This is even more important than the actual height itself. That said, the easiest way to do that is by giving yourself a straight sub-rail. The factory Brunswick sub-rail height on your table would have been 1 23/32", with a nose height of 1 29/64". However, the top edge often gets belt-sanded, when the cushions are installed. That makes the top edge of the sub-rail a bit inconsistent. Now, when you install a set of cushions, using the inconsistent top surface of the sub-rail as your guide, the new cushion will be installed with matching waviness.

To avoid this, we knock the height of the sub-rail down to 1 11/16". However, doing so, will also drop the nose height of the cushion. So, we have to modify the sub-rail face angle, to accommodate the change in height. Since you are modifying the face angle, you might as well knock it back to get your 2:1 play area.

Once the face angle is cut back, you'll need to modify the lower angle. Now, here is where you could get into a bit of trouble..... Don't try to match the factory angle, as you will cut away a lot of the factory cloth relief area. You might think that this isn't a big deal, as you could always cut the cloth relief back further... Well, that is true. However, for rails that use the figure 8 nut plates, you'll have some trouble stapling your rail cloth, near those plates. Though, you could plan to upgrade the figure 8 plates with Stafast threaded inserts, and avoid the issue altogether, but there is considerable work and cost associated with that.

In your case, the bottom staple area is wasted. If it were me, I would cut off the sub-rails, and replace them with new. I think that it's actually easier than modifying existing sub-rails, particularly when customers want tight pockets.

Images below for reference:

Cue Alchemist said:

From there facebook page, that table is a 7ft bar box. Comparing it to a english 8 ball table, For people to try. Not sure what there standard cash steel pockets are.
They definitely look better, than the old sam tables they had. They used to play very tight aswell.

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No it’s not
Thats a Clash Steel 9 ft table

From there facebook page, that table is a 7ft bar box. Comparing it to a english 8 ball table, For people to try. Not sure what there standard cash steel pockets are.
They definitely look better, than the old sam tables they had. They used to play very tight aswell.

MattPoland said:

How about this?View attachment 833972

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Favorite among lesbians.

thrillsoft said:

For people just starting out collecting... what cue makers/brands would you suggest investing in now for UNDER $800 that will only GO UP in value? If people thought of collecting as an investment, or a collection to leave their children/grandchildren 30 years from now... which makers would you suggest will only increase in value?

I think this would be a very interesting conversation. Some cue makers are very talented but only start making cues in their older years and don't have time to build a name for themselves. Other cue makers that are younger may end up "selling out" and mass producing and dilute the market. (or maybe don't win awards that seem to help value).

What makers (under $800) would you predict would be valuable in 20 years? I'm dying to hear the thoughts from so many different experts on here.

PLEASE let's leave out of the discussion "Just buy what hits the way you like". Obviously, those are the ones we play with. I'm talking about INVESTMENT quality that can currently be bought at very reasonable prices. Things you stick in the closet because you feel it's going to be valuable.

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Generally, cues don't appreciate in value these days, unless you're willing to wait something like 14 to 18 years for a Southwest. And, in that time, I suspect a passbook savings account or money market fund would have done better than even that. Cue collectors are shrinking somewhat, as the visible market is going away from traditional cues and into carbon fiber and that sort of thing.

Now if you're willing to talk to guys like Justin, Carbondale Kid, Outrider, and Vintagecollectibles, I'm sure they'll give you very good advice with cheap cues that may or may not appreciate in value.

Renegade4006 said:

I contacted Saluc SA via email. Saluc SA is the company that makes both the Aramith brand and Brunswick brand cue balls. Unfortunately they have not responded.

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I’m fairly certain Saluc only uses the Duranith resin on Aramith branded balls. I think they use the Super Aramith Pro Resin on the Centrnnials and Predator Arcos.

sciarco said:

At my age i use this hat.View attachment 833943

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taking action on he forgets anyway.