I'm glad you made your comment. I went back to what I said and of course there is an argument.
In the scenerio I described: Running down a bolt with a power tool then coming back with a click wrench to finish it off.
If the wrench clicks before the fastener moves using the above process, there's no way to know what condition that bolt is in. I could be over torqued or under torqued. All we know is the wrench clicked. A click wrench doesn't give you a torque reading. It only gives an audible and tactile signal that the spring, block, cam.. has reached its limit.
If you really wanted to find out the condition of that bolt, you would need a Direct Read type torque wrench. In the old days torque auditors would use dial and flex beam wrenches. That took a lot of skill since you would have to watch the needle climb, then drop, then climb again. They would have to capture the drop (when the fastener moved). These days, auditors use highly sophisticated electronic wrenches with multiple transducers to give them a torque reading and a gyroscope system to measure degrees of angle after movement. These wrenches automatically capture when the torque curve drops and report that number.
The fastener must be in motion at the time the wrench clicks. If it doesn't move then it should be backed off, then moved forward.
As far as lubrication is concerned, I recommend following the instructions. In more complex assemblies than pool tables, the engineer will state dry or lubricated and what type lube. If lubrication is used for a dry application, the torque target will be lowered.
Getting back to pool tables. If the OEM assembly has no washer but you want to add one, I would consider the washer, lubrication, since the bolt rotation isn't being hampered by grinding against wood.
Since there's no OEM published torque specs, we can do whatever the heck we want to do.
Nothing that I've written matters a whit when it comes to pool tables.
