Jacoby custom cue Heritage L4

The Heritage L4 Cue is crafted with Zircote. It is emblazoned with rings and inlays of different materials defining this cue’s look. The forearm as well as the butt sleeve are made from Zircote. The spiderweb grain gives the wood its striking appearance. Genuine Leather lizard print completes the wrap section. There are twelve Abalone circles, one hundred twenty small pieces of Jewelers Bronze, thirty-six Abalone inlays, forty-four White Juma inlays, and 8 Black Juma inlays designing this cue. This cue is complete with a radial pin and a 12.7MM Ultra Pro Shaft.​

1895 shipped in the US

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Jacoby custom cue HB6 V2

Constructed with BirdsEye Maple, Zircote, and Gold Web Veriscite Inlay. BirdsEye Maple makes up the forearm. The wrap section is made with Highly Figured Zircote. Enhancing the HB6 V2's bold design is Thirty-Six White Juma Index Stitches, eight Zircote Points, Twentyfour Gold Web Veriscite Inlays, and Sixteen Holly Inlays. Giving this cue the grand total of Eight-Eight hand place inlays. This cue is finalized with a Radial pin and ultra shaft​


1695 shipped in the US

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Best All-Around Production Cue for ~$1000 (Value, Playability, Durability, Support)?

After great success with southwest over the years I thought id try a carbon fiber cue after trying a couple of name brands I settled on a jflowers cue with smo shaft. Finding the right tip took some time but my old trusty milk dud gave me great performance from the shaft. after taking time to get used to literally no deflection and a great hit this cue is a winner.

Best All-Around Production Cue for ~$1000 (Value, Playability, Durability, Support)?

stupid thread as the best cue for anyone is the one that they feels has the hit they like and has tried it out. that's why buying unseen almost never can be the best cue for you.

although in essence most will adapt to any sound cue if played with it for a time.

most anyway buy by looks and not by feel after trying it out.

I blindly bought a Meucci last year and I totally loved that thing, sadly it was stolen.

But it was a blind buy of $380 rather than $1000 + dollars.

Best All-Around Production Cue for ~$1000 (Value, Playability, Durability, Support)?

stupid thread as the best cue for anyone is the one that they feels has the hit they like and has tried it out. that's why buying unseen almost never can be the best cue for you.

although in essence most will adapt to any sound cue if played with it for a time.

most anyway buy by looks and not by feel after trying it out.

Getting casino betting back and new sponsorships

there was always dumping or something fixed and still is when betting is allowed. bookies would limit your bets to a pittance on that side when they suspected it or when the action went too far in one direction. or certain betters bet big.

so in effect they made more money because they still took more money in on the losing side from those not knowing.

what you see in the movies of someone coming in to a bookie and making a giant bet on a fixed race or game. never happens as they dont take giant bets from an unknown as it sets off their bell in their head. or any unusual bet from a regular they had any doubts about.

unless its something like the super bowl. even then if betting goes too far in one direction they have moved the line a great deal and will or may stop taking action on one side if it gets too heavy for them.

Dynasphere Challenger set.

however the dyna balls stay cleaner and that makes more people happy. an old die hard player is used to the centennials and wont like any change. that's all i played on forever. but at home now i like the dyna type balls.

and i do switch back and forth and can not tell any difference other than in my mind.
and cleaner balls are less likely to surprise you with a miss from throw. and with dirty balls you had better learn about throw and outside english.

Lathe wanted

I drove out to Chris' shop and picked up the basic cue repair lathe with the upgrade package and some extras. Meeting Chris was a pleasant experience and his shop set up is packed with supplies. I don't need to go into the design and quality of Chris' products and, after setting up my lathe, was not disappointed. Chris is extremely knowledgeable about cue making products and is the "go to" guy for any of your problems.

Justin Bergman vs Tom Cousins

Just a general comment about the 1pocket comments: I feel many of you are describing old school 1pocket -- the same 1pocket I learned back in the late 90's.

A lot of defense and what ya'll call bunting.

However, the game has evolved thanks to players like Frost and Chohan and slew of others and if you play that old school style today you are a dead duck. Players are much more aggressive on their offensive shots, banks, and take-outs. And the old; "You only kick if you're mad at your backer’s money" is out the window. Players nowadays are *creating* opportunities through aggressive play and when they get them they are running a ton of balls and matches tend to move along far more quickly than the old days.

It's not your grandma's 1pocket anymore.

Lou Figueroa

Energy transfer from cuetip to whiteball

a hard tip over say a med hard tip or perhaps medium. may give a slightly faster speed to the cue ball, but it certainly is not perceived or really measurable enough to make any difference. and you would adapt to it and never see it.
and the occasional miscue from it may make it a liability for some that are not meticulous at chalking.

only possible speed advantage might be in a break cue,

Moving a 9 foot GC3

Fyi... to breakdown a gold crown 4 you will need the following items.

9/16 socket, 1/2 socket 3/4 socket, 8-12 inch extension for ratchet drive, # 3 Phillips bit, #2 Phillips bit.
tack or staple puller, pliers, 3/Th's wrench 1/2 wrench. 9/32 Allen wrench.

Start by removing Allen screws in the pockets, remove pocket (or gully liners if ball return) Next remove 9/16 rail bolts and studs from rails, these are found under the rails looking up from the bottom. Next remove ball track if ball return and ball ball receiver box. The hardware for the ball receiver box is a number 2 Phillips with a 3/8 nut run up through the two angle brackets and attached under the ball storage area. (ball return only) Next, with a helper lift the rail and apron Assembly off the table and flip upside down. Next remove the #2 Phillips screws from the metal brackets in the corners of the aprons, Next remove the the 1/2 head bolts from the aprons and stack finished side to finished side, two short pieces 2 long pieces. Next carefully remove the 1/2 inch head bolts that go through the castings into the round receiver bolts in the rails, 2 per side on the corner castings 1 per side on the side pocket castings. Start with the castings on the head rail where they connect to the side rails first. IE you will be removing just the short end rail first. Next remove the foot rail casting bolts. Slide the two long rails to wards the center of the table and remove the single casting bolt on both sides of the long rail. and repeat on the other long rail. You should now have 6 separate rails, transport the bottom face to bottom faced avoid scratches to the Formica rail cap.

Now remove ALL the staples from the bed cloth with your staple remover and pliers. make sure you check under and around the pocket openings. With the cloth removed you'll see the bare slate, remove the 12 slate screws with the # 3 Phillips bit. Remove the slate and place flat in your truck wood side down slate side up. You can stack the three slates on top of each other.

Now remove the 3/4 inch bolts from the angle iron between the frame and the pedestal. Now set the frame on the floor and remove the 3/4 inch bolts from the left hand side of the frame. Now do the right hand side (4 bolts). With the bolts removed you can tap on the sides of the frame and separate the short pieces from the long. Stack and load into you truck.

Now remove the 3/4 inch bolts from the leg sections through the center connector (2 on each side) load the legs and center stretcher into your truck. cover the loaded items with packing blankets and load the rails, aprons and hardware box ball track etc...

When unloading into your room, keep the frame components together, keep the legs and center stretcher together, keep the rails and aprons together and lean the slates vertical against any solid wall one against the other in a single stack is fine.


Jay Spielberg
Quality done right the first time!

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