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Dynasphere Vanadium

j2pac
AvidCynergy said:
Was looking to buy a set of Dynasphere Vanadium. Does anyone know of any places that I can buy it from? Would prefer in the US

After trying the Super Aramith Pros and the Dynasphere Golds, I have to say that I prefer the Dynaspheres. Mostly due to how clean their cue ball stays. Had two chalk marks breaking with a phenolic tip on my Dynasphere golds after a week of play. However with my Super Aramith Pro Red Measles I had about 10 marks in the same amount of time.
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PM sent. 😎👍
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How to Clean a Leather Burnisher?

S
TerryZak said:
Thanks straightline. Cleaning from the joint to the tip makes great sense! Seems so obvious now, but hasn't been previously!

Since I don't know what's on a shaft when I purchase it, I start out with Bug & Tar remover and then alcohol to remove oils and any remnants of wax. Then give the shaft a sanding with 600 and then alcohol with a clean rag to remove saw dust. If the shaft is used but new to me, I'll also use a Magic Eraser, and then Longoni and another commercially available shaft cleaner prior to the 600 sanding.

I use the Zinsser 854, Bulls Eye Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer that's 100% wax free and cut it to about 50% with denatured alcohol so that the shellac gets down into the pores. Then I let dry and sand with an initial dry 600 sandpaper on the lathe. After additional light coats I wet sand with 800, and then later wax with Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Premium Paste Wax on my lathe, and buff off residual. I also wet sand with 1200 for the last couple coats of wax.

But since alcohol strips wax and can remove sanding sealer, I stay away from that and just use a slightly damp paper towel for cleaning (after sealing and waxing) and then dry by rubbing down with a microfiber towel.

I have a bottle of Tiger Cleaner and one of their Sealer, but haven't used them because frankly, I have no idea what they're made of. The instructions on both bottle state to use the Tiger products on a lathe, so to me there doesn't seem to be a big advantage for the Tiger products over the sanding sealer and Carnauba wax.

I'm not an expert on this stuff, but a borderline OCD engineer who gets irritated with the chalk stains.

Thank you to everyone for their insights and guidance,

Terry
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Wow that's thorough enough. I just use car products; currently Turtle Wax Seal and Shine for a base and the silicone only (no shaking) from TWax ICE synth polish. I can then clean with home brewed isopropyl - strong as possible but there's unfortunately still enough water in it to raise the grain a hair. I don't use denatured because of the poison in it.
Can't shellac obviously but I wish there was some plastic coating that can be sprayed on.

If you play frequently cleaning after a day's play is a requisite.
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How to Clean a Leather Burnisher?

T
straightline said:
Seal it and clean with alcohol. THEN burnish.

Incidentally, go joint to tip. The other way just spreads chalk over the whole shaft.
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Thanks straightline. Cleaning from the joint to the tip makes great sense! Seems so obvious now, but hasn't been previously!

Since I don't know what's on a shaft when I purchase it, I start out with Bug & Tar remover and then alcohol to remove oils and any remnants of wax. Then give the shaft a sanding with 600 and then alcohol with a clean rag to remove saw dust. If the shaft is used but new to me, I'll also use a Magic Eraser, and then Longoni and another commercially available shaft cleaner prior to the 600 sanding.

I use the Zinsser 854, Bulls Eye Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer that's 100% wax free and cut it to about 50% with denatured alcohol so that the shellac gets down into the pores. Then I let dry and sand with an initial dry 600 sandpaper on the lathe. After additional light coats I wet sand with 800, and then later wax with Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus Premium Paste Wax on my lathe, and buff off residual. I also wet sand with 1200 for the last couple coats of wax.

But since alcohol strips wax and can remove sanding sealer, I stay away from that and just use a slightly damp paper towel for cleaning (after sealing and waxing) and then dry by rubbing down with a microfiber towel.

I have a bottle of Tiger Cleaner and one of their Sealer, but haven't used them because frankly, I have no idea what they're made of. The instructions on both bottle state to use the Tiger products on a lathe, so to me there doesn't seem to be a big advantage for the Tiger products over the sanding sealer and Carnauba wax.

I'm not an expert on this stuff, but a borderline OCD engineer who gets irritated with the chalk stains.

Thank you to everyone for their insights and guidance,

Terry
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How to Clean a Leather Burnisher?

WildWing
TerryZak said:
I've searched the forum and haven't found insight on this one, and would appreciate your insights.

I have several leather burnishers (Porper's, Last 4 Ever, and Tiger). During a night out if a shaft feels like it's starting to drag, I use the more coarse side first, and then the smooth side.

Especially for the Tiger with it's light color, I can easily see how the coarse side picks up the chalk and residue that's removed from the shaft during cleaning. I understand that's expected.

So one question is, once a leather burnisher has picked up this chalk and residue aren't you just wiping that back into the shaft when using the burnisher the next time?

And is there a way to clean a leather burnisher to remove the chalk and residue?

Thanks in advance!

Terry
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Leather is not required. Run a wet thumb across the ferrule and tip and turn it hard around a paper towel. That's all you need to do.
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How to Clean a Leather Burnisher?

T
straightline said:
Don't put chalk and grime on it.
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Guess I should leave some magic eraser in my cue case for when chalk builds up.

I changed to the TAOM V10 (Pagulayan blue flavor), and hold my cue at an angle when chalking to reduce accumulation on the shaft. But I guess it also gets picked up by the glove (Molanari or Predator Second Skin) and then rubbed into the shaft grain. It's quite irritating.

I clean off my shaft after each playing session, but have two friends that each time we get together we play a minimum of six hours. I'm not retired so I can't do that but once or twice a week, but that provides a lot of opportunity for chalk/grime to build up on the shaft; even if I wash my hands 3-5 times.
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How to Clean a Leather Burnisher?

T
a1712 said:
Burnishers burnish Leather, if you're removing wood with it, it's a sander. A leather burnisher should last about a lifetime +. Brian.
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Yeah, I had used this one when I was out playing to clean up a shaft that felt like it was dragging. It was a shaft that I haven't gotten around to sealing with sanding sealer and also had not waxed it yet. I was surprised by how much chalk the rough side of the Tiger burnisher removed from the shaft.
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Brunswick Centennial Prices?

Bavafongoul
I doubt I’ll ever need a set of Centennials but pushing $600 seems absurd…..but so does $1300 break cues and $5k custom cue designs and waiting years for your cue to get made. I hear Dynasphere Rhodium balls are more affordable than Aramith Tournament sets and are probably comparable to Aramith Super Pro sets in price. But the Dynasphere 6 ball is a awful gray color but every set can’t be as handsome as a set of Centennial pool balls, not even Raschig pool balls.
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Careful Criticizing CSI Org

iusedtoberich
Crasher said:
These tables typically get distributed to pool halls after the event. This means that there is going to be a flood of hundreds of bucket pocket bar tables hitting the private market shortly, which isn’t the best for improving the ability of the average shooter.
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It makes zero difference. A player will improve the same on a bucket table or a tight table. I'd even venture to say they might improve faster on a bucket table because they can be more aggressive with shotmaking and position.
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