jtompilot said:

Congratulations, I want one but my wife wants a furniture style table. Drop pockets, love them.

I see they super glued the seams. I thought bondo was the new preferred fill the seam method. I’m sure bees wax is easier. The local guys here don’t glue the seams

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The Paragon is a gorgeous table.

I have never weighed a cue, it just doesn't matter to me what they weigh and I don't plan on selling any of mine so I don't need to know for that purpose either. I guess this is information nobody wanted or needed, just thought I would share anyhow.

Cornerman said:

W

what rules? Cuz if it’s the lame-ass Ultimate Pool Rules, Iceberg will lose close on a technicality of the rules. Because they’re dumb. If International Rules means accepted WPA rules, which I don’t think that’s what they’re saying, then Bergman is a favorite in my opinion. But I think they’re doing those lame ass, dumb ass, stupid ass rules.

I will bet on Justin, but I ain’t holding my breath.

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You haven't really been following the UPL events have you?

DieselPete said:

Honestly, after reading the thread, I've arrived at these opinions:

1) Nine ball is not "broken." It is a game with its own peculiarities and we can play other games if we prefer.

2) If we believe that the break has become too controllable (it is really a one-ball carom in the side shot), then a simple solution is alternate break (already used in many tournaments), which emulates the alternating serve in tennis. On your break you want to "hold serve" and "breaking" someone else's serve (their break) is a big deal.

3) If we believe we need more "randomization" in the balls, we should use a traditional rack. The templates are simply too good at doing what they are designed to do.

4) Most of the more radical suggestions to change the game will make the game no longer the game as we know it, or make the game worse to play and watch. Again, these are my opinions.

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One break format i've liked is the WPBA alternating every 2 breaks (only issue being keeping track). Or the Predator best of 3 sets (i know it's 10b, so best of 3 races to 5 would i think be analogous).

easy-e said:

Ya think? I'm simply asking for people to elaborate on their picks, that's all. All of the posts on facebook I've seen about this are hilarious. Some people saying Tom won't get to 10, etc. I'm wondering if people who are so confident about either side have spent much time learning about the other. I consider them both buddies of mine, and can't wait to be there for this match!

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I think it depends on how the table is breaking. if there are a lot clusters I give the advantage to Cousins, he can work thru a table with minimal cue ball movement like nobodies business. If the tables are breaking wide open I give the advantage to Bergman because he moves the cue ball so well.

Badpenguin said:

Awesome, but I hope you have a good glass/window installer on speed dial!

Looks like you could fit either a camera or a projector between the window and sliding glass door

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Bunch of y'all worried about my windows. Do people really have that much trouble keeping the cue ball on the table? I can't remember the last time i lost the cb off the table and it was likely a bounce off a jump.

I've got a GoPro mounted mid table near the ceiling and a TV on the wall at the head of the table.

dumisin said:

I always thought that diamond tables were 1 piece slate

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1-piece is the default for the ProAm and Professional (and i assume the Paragon), but 3 is an option. I'm on the 3rd floor, so a 1-piece wasn't going to happen (although technically it would have fit up the stairs).

easy-e said:

The 15 seconds only comes into play during the final 10 minutes of a tournament match. Since this is a money game, I would imagine both players agreed to no match clock. Justin certainly doesn't want it to be a 15 second shot clock.

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Right, thats why I agree that it wont be the match clock because there is no trigger for the 15 second portion. Although 15 seconds seems like it should be enough time to get a shot off it hardly gives you enough time to "walk the table". I have watched every UPUSA tournament and you always see players get caught out by the 15 second timer. Cousins has great rhythm, he looks like he takes his time, is usually down on the shot with around 6-7 seconds to go and pulls the trigger at about 2 seconds and very seldom looks rushed. His timing seems to stay the same whether its a simple shot or something he has to work at.

middleofnowhere said:

I just mentioned it. I used to buy and sell gold so I have those scales. I once got stopped by a cop and they did a car search. Seems those triple beam scales were were a tip off for drug dealers. I should add the car was driving when I got stopped as well as that fancy triangular case sitting on the passenger seat was kind of alarming to the cop.

In fact now that I'm thinking about it back in those days you couldn't even buy one of those triple beam scales. You had to go to a medical supply and buy one and fill out paperwork like you're buying a gun. They were considered drug paraphernalia. Now you can probably just buy one off eBay.

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I only ever used one in school--middle/junior high, I think--which is the only reason I knew of them, although I'm sure that I've seen them on tv shows.

I've known of scales being considered "drug paraphernalia", but never knew that they were purchase-controlled (the beam ones). [Off topic, I also wasn't aware that there was an 'r' in "paraphernalia" until now....]

Tennesseejoe said:

Thanks for an answer that helps in my decision. Will you share the combination of shaft/tip you prefere?

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I use a Tiger Everest. A brand new one is a little softer than I prefer so my tip installer sands a couple layers off at install, I think it helps it to stiffen them up a little faster especially since I break with it. I have them on McDermott G-Core shafts which people say are not really LD shafts but its what I have been playing with for 20 years and I am used to them. Since they usually last a couple of years sanding off a couple of layers really doesn't bother me.

Side-Pocket said:

It would be really nice to have a path to study one proven method that reallly works for all bank shots, or maybe to know that there isn't just one method that fits all.

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I think the sooner you can realize there is not only 1 perfected method for all banks the better....There are multiple methods for banking and pieces of each can be combined for your personal best method....I want to know "ALL" the methods

What was never mentioned (that I saw) in this entire thread is the speed of the bank makes a difference...hard narrows...soft widens......so unless you are hitting medium firm on all banks...you can throw out the "perfect angle" methods.......However you can use them all like tools in a tool box to help you get your feel.........There are multiple upon multiple methods for banks........Sometimes for a long rail bank..(or even short rail) simply hitting the OB square in the face with english to throw it into the pocket is all you need.....Sometimes you can line up the intended pocket side edges of CB/OB face to face square (forgetting the pocket or angle) and pivot your cue to center and it puts you on the perfect bank......Sometimes hard with "inside" english to shorten a bank that would naturally go wide....sometimes you need english to get the CB out of the way of a double kiss.......what "shape" do you need with the CB could influence the bank method....(especially one pocket where a lazy CB could be a sell out) .......so many banking variables.

Quite possibly....for banks....the actual 1 proven system for banks is the........HAMB method.