How do you take pictures of cues?

J

jor23_lin

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi there,

I have got some PM or email asking me the way how i took pictures of cues so i decided to start this thread and hoped some of you could also share the way you are using:)
Here is the list of my equipment:
Camera: Canon EOS 350D (update to 5D recently)
Lens: EF 35/1.4 L
Flash: 580EX

Before we start, it will be very nice if you can spend some time to check the following link.
http://web.canon.jp/imaging/enjoydslr/
You have to know every single part of your DSLR (or small DC) and the relationship between aperture and shutter speed, and what does over-, under-exposure mean
and how to adjust shutter speed, aperture or even ISO to get the best exposure...sounds a lot..actually not !
Another thing is the flash... I am always using "Undirect flash" to get softer light.
Probably you can find the answer on the following link. Check the direct and undirect flash part.
http://eosseries.ifrance.com/eosseries/en/flashwork/


Ok, now i am trying to tell you how i take pictures of cues....

Usually i took pictures on my bed which is shown on pic.environment02...
Environment02.jpg


But i will use enviornment01 to take pictures of dark wood....
Environment01.jpg


SW021_01 was taken at environment01...
SW021_01.jpg


and SW021_02 was at 02..
SW021_02.jpg


Can you see any difference between them? It's because the dark wood is very easy to reflect the background so probably you may see some interiors of my room at SW021_02.
But at pic SW021_01... reflection on the cue is just light...
So when you are going to take picture of dark wood, the surrounding is very important...
as simple as possible... like my environment01 just white wall or the light box is also a good choice : )
Then please notice the environment02 check the angle of flash on the camera... It's upward to the roof, isn't it?
If you have checked the 2nd link i post, you will understand it's so-called undirect flash and we can get softer light by using that. This is the 2nd hint.

3rd is the position of the cues..... I am not telling you that the way you put your cue is wrong BUT...
When you put your cue vertically, you waste the space at left and right side of the pic. Waste up and down side if it's horizontal.

Back to the basic of photography, the key point to get nice pic is to get the proper exposure which you can learn from the very first link i post.
Here is my way....
I am using M mode when the flash is on. I will choose high ISO (most of time 400) to get enough shutter speed for small aperture.
Aperture is always between 7.1-10 to get more depth of field which can get more clear part of the cues.
Shutter speed will consider my safe shutter speed which is the key point to get clear picture not a shaking blur one.
I will suggest you to get a flash first, then use the following settings:
M mode, put the shutter speed at 100, aperture at 8, ISO 400 using undirect flash shown on environment02.
If the coming out pic is over-exposure (too bright), adjust the shutter speed to 125 or aperture to 10, or ISO to 200.(note it's "or" not "and")

And there is one more thing, don't put your camera with your cues at right angle when you are using flash which will make the light reflect to camera directly.

The last hint:
Practice makes perfect!!!

Hope these help and more of you can share your own way :thumbup:
 
1423008687_58d684cbdd_o.jpg


Actually.. I try to take them during the daytime with natural light.. if not I use some top mounted halogen bulbs pointed at the wall...

929_butt_hi.jpg


Camera is always in Macro setting...

JV
 
What I would pay GOOD money for is a folding light tent that would fold flat. It would also be nice if it put the lights on the stands and flipped them on......but seriously......... a folding light tent big enough for cue photography would make the woman in the pic below VERY Happy, and it behooves me to do that......I's a lucky man and she doesn't ask for much
 
cliffy said:
What I would pay GOOD money for is a folding light tent that would fold flat. It would also be nice if it put the lights on the stands and flipped them on......but seriously......... a folding light tent big enough for cue photography would make the woman in the pic below VERY Happy, and it behooves me to do that......I's a lucky man and she doesn't ask for much
Click to expand...
Cliffy, have a look at these don't know if they would be big enough.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98219


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65797
 
I can modify the version I have to be folding..


barter for the one in the pic?
LOL LOL LOL!

j/k man, it shouldn't be that hard to make a folding, transportable one...
 
cliffy said:
image is gone sadly................i've been sent to my corner
Click to expand...

na na na na na na.........i told you so....lol


on a more serious note...... A folding light box shouldn't be a big deal. If making the box isn't to much work, adding a few hinges shouldn't be a big deal.

Marcus <-------doesn't have a fancy picture box
 
ideas

always interesting to see other peoples ideas on how to get the best results when taking pics of cues.
the long cylinder shapes do present unique issues when compared to other types of photography.
you have to continually experiment with different setups with hopes of getting better results.

havent taken any cue shots in 2 or 3 years.
this gets me interested in trying new setups.
a lot of people get nice results with natural light, but that wouldnt be convenient for me, as the area in which i live is completely covered with tall trees, so there would always be a problem with shadows.

don't personally find flash useful, even if bounced.
the last setup i used was bring the cue up from the surface.
just set it on a set of bookends that was handy.
placed the continous light sources facing each other at the ends of the cue, but set back away from the cue to allow for the least amount of glare, depending on camera position.
also used a tripod that could telescope over the cue, from the side, to reduce the shadow from the tripod itself.
found the material underneath the cue to not be that important since the reflections from it would not be in a photo, taken from above the cue.
so it value is only what you want for a background, unless you plan to pshop, and sub something else.
i used black material to the sides of the cue to keep reflections to a minimum.
found anything of color, or lighter, to show on the cue itself.
did puchase and try a light tent once . . and stuck it in a closet somewhere.
again the light material of the tent would show on the cue itself.
always found circular polarizers only worked by reducing the glare, by reducing the light.
then you were required to compensate for the light reduction by lengthening the shutter.
once you did this you were pretty much back where you started at as far as glare.
turning the polarizer for a dif result wasnt much help.
it was easier to reduce glare by simply moving the opposing light sources farther from the cue.

. . . and to learn "every single part of your DSLR" would be far too much work.
don't look at the instruction manual unless i absolutely have to! :)
 
Couple things

One: Use a soft light box around your flash. One of those kinds you buy in a pro photog store.

Two: If your using digi slr, DO a white balance reading next to the cue on a white piece of paper. google white balance settings on dslr's


Three: Learn to use the unsharp mask on all you digi photos.
Google unsharp mask technique.

BTW, nice camera and lens! OP.

If your looking to buy a new camera for shooting cues and other things,
dont be a sucker and spend mega money for a high end body. (unless you need to enlarge HUGE, or need the shutter speed for sports).
I can get pro level enlargements at around 8x10 with a 6 mega pixel body.
Mega pixel ratings is all about how large you need to enlarge, not image quality! If you never see yourself going into a high end photog shop, paying
200.00 for a poster sized enlargement, or shoot fast sports, you don't need
to spend huge money. I would get a DSLR though. Nikon D70 is a great bang
for your buck.


The money should always be spent in the glass, not the body.
If your buying Canon, just look for the red ring, that will tell you got good glass, if the receipt of purchase dont clue you in. Bodys become outdated
FAST, good fast glass never loses its use to you!

Just a little more info.
 
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