shafts 314 or ob1

OB shafts forever.....

OB 1 in particular. I like the OB-2 as well, it has a stiffer hit, but Im more finesses so I like the flex and the long taper of the ob-1. awesome aftermarket shaft. I've plyed with them all, Tiger x, Predator 314, 314 2, z, z 2, annie o, sharpshooter, meucci black dot, red dot, etc. OB is by far the best feeling and consistent overall, just my opinion
 
Ive tried the Ob-1 and the predator shafts (314-1 and pre-cat) I've yet
to try out a z, or a 314-2, or an OB-2. I dont even want to to tell you
the truth. I love the pre-cat predator shaft. It just works for me.
 
Ive tried the OB-1, 314, 314-2 and the Z2, and I like the way the OB-1 played best of all, but I just could not get used to that ferrule. I dont understand why Royce has not come up with a more traditional ferrule. I know several people who wont even try it because of the ferrule, but if that does not bother you, then go for the OB shaft. I played with a 314-2 for a while and it played good, but I have since went back to a standard maple shaft. Sometimes I wonder why..........lol.




Joe
 
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Ive tried the OB-1, 314, 314-2 and the Z2, and I like the way the OB-1 played best of all, but I just could not get used to that ferrule. I dont understand why Royce has not come up with a more traditional ferrule. I know several people who wont even try it because of the ferrule, but if that does not bother you, then go for the OB shaft. I played with a 314-2 for a while and it played good, but I have since went back to a standard maple shaft. Sometimes I wonder why..........lol.




Joe

it's because wood is lighter than any "regular" ferrule material. lighter=less deflection. i love my OB-1, the ferrule doesn't bother me one bit.
 
Ive tried the OB-1, 314, 314-2 and the Z2, and I like the way the OB-1 played best of all, but I just could not get used to that ferrule. I dont understand why Royce has not come up with a more traditional ferrule. I know several people who wont even try it because of the ferrule, but if that does not bother you, then go for the OB shaft. I played with a 314-2 for a while and it played good, but I have since went back to a standard maple shaft. Sometimes I wonder why..........lol.




Joe

Snipershot

Thanks for the honest opinion!

As you can imagine, we have heard similar comments over the last few years. I guess I should clear up the "Why" about our ferrule.

I'm sure that most of you are aware that cue ball squirt, or deflection, is a result of the difference between the tip end mass of the cue shaft as compared to the mass of the cue ball. The heavier the tip end mass of the cue shaft, the more squirt, or cue ball deflection you will have. So, to reduce the squirt, you have to reduce the mass at the tip end of the cue shaft.

We went outside the norm to look for materials and methods to accomplish this. We wanted to provide low squirt, but we also wanted to have a cue shaft with a solid hit and good spin.

So, we came up with a method to build a ferrule out of maple. Our method is not only much lighter than any of the plastics used for ferrules, but also will hold up much better than those same plastics. Our ferrules are warranted for life! The main reason for this is because the ferrule and the shaft are the same material, maple. They adapt to temperature and humidity changes together instead of fighting each other as plastic and maple do.

Also, instead of leaving the end of our cue shafts hollow, we chose to fill that void with a Balsa Wood dowel. Yes, the tip end of our cue shafts has balsa wood in the center! We found that the combination of the maple ferrule and the balsa pin in the center provides for a very solid hit without any of the harshness associated with some of the other plastic materials.

So, yes, our ferrule looks different. But, we feel the benefits far out weigh the difference in looks. We've had countless players who were skeptical because of the looks, but now play with our cue shafts. They usually say "I just don't see the ferrule any more". We've had players in our booth at various shows who tell their skeptical friends "you shouldn't be looking at the ferrule anyway".

The only weakness to our ferrule is that it can spread or mushroom. Basically, just like a tip can do, but if the ferrule does this it will fail and come apart. To prevent this we use a "Carbon Fiber" pad under the tip. The carbon pad prevents this spreading of the ferrule. As a matter of fact, we have had very few ferrule failures where the carbon fiber pad was in tact. These pads are only available from us, but they are only $2.00 each. Also, you don't need to replace them very often. If you cue smith trims off the old tip without cutting into them, they the original pad will last forever! And this is easy to do. We have instructions on our website.

So, I know it looks different, but give it a chance. You just might be surprised!


Thanks to all those out there who use our cue shafts! We wouldn't be here without you!


Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
I have shot with the ob1 and the 314/2. I prefer the 314/2 because it have a stiffer hit and feel. Ob1 has more flex. Both are excellent low deflection shafts.
 
I have a pre-cat 314 that is minty mint...and a 314-2 in my case. I like them both...but the 314-2 had the edge.

I owned an OB1 and it played ok....but too light for my taste.
 
Snipershot

Thanks for the honest opinion!

As you can imagine, we have heard similar comments over the last few years. I guess I should clear up the "Why" about our ferrule.

I'm sure that most of you are aware that cue ball squirt, or deflection, is a result of the difference between the tip end mass of the cue shaft as compared to the mass of the cue ball. The heavier the tip end mass of the cue shaft, the more squirt, or cue ball deflection you will have. So, to reduce the squirt, you have to reduce the mass at the tip end of the cue shaft.

We went outside the norm to look for materials and methods to accomplish this. We wanted to provide low squirt, but we also wanted to have a cue shaft with a solid hit and good spin.

So, we came up with a method to build a ferrule out of maple. Our method is not only much lighter than any of the plastics used for ferrules, but also will hold up much better than those same plastics. Our ferrules are warranted for life! The main reason for this is because the ferrule and the shaft are the same material, maple. They adapt to temperature and humidity changes together instead of fighting each other as plastic and maple do.

Also, instead of leaving the end of our cue shafts hollow, we chose to fill that void with a Balsa Wood dowel. Yes, the tip end of our cue shafts has balsa wood in the center! We found that the combination of the maple ferrule and the balsa pin in the center provides for a very solid hit without any of the harshness associated with some of the other plastic materials.

So, yes, our ferrule looks different. But, we feel the benefits far out weigh the difference in looks. We've had countless players who were skeptical because of the looks, but now play with our cue shafts. They usually say "I just don't see the ferrule any more". We've had players in our booth at various shows who tell their skeptical friends "you shouldn't be looking at the ferrule anyway".

The only weakness to our ferrule is that it can spread or mushroom. Basically, just like a tip can do, but if the ferrule does this it will fail and come apart. To prevent this we use a "Carbon Fiber" pad under the tip. The carbon pad prevents this spreading of the ferrule. As a matter of fact, we have had very few ferrule failures where the carbon fiber pad was in tact. These pads are only available from us, but they are only $2.00 each. Also, you don't need to replace them very often. If you cue smith trims off the old tip without cutting into them, they the original pad will last forever! And this is easy to do. We have instructions on our website.

So, I know it looks different, but give it a chance. You just might be surprised!


Thanks to all those out there who use our cue shafts! We wouldn't be here without you!


Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

Hello Royce. I see why you use that ferrule, but maybe you might consider making a different model of shaft with a more traditional ferrule? It may have a bit more deflection, but it would be much more appealing to the general population. I have tried an OB, like I said in a previous post, and I loved the hit, I played it for a few weeks, but in the end, even though the hit wasnt as good, the 314-2 was what I played with due to the ferrule. I tried my best to like it, I really did, but I just cant use that maple ferrule. I need that white contrast on the end of my cue, dont know why, but I need it.


Joe
 
Snipershot,

Well, that's fair enough!

I have always said that we will build what people will buy, so I will have to look at it! If there is enough demand for it, then we will build it!

Anyone else out there who would be interested in an OB-1 with a regular ferrule? We would be talking much more squirt. Probably not as much as many conventional shafts, but certainly more than what we have now.

Before someone suggests it, I will not build any cue shafts with a hole in the end like Predator does. Predator is a great company and their construction methods are patent protected. I would never copy a patented design.


So, if anyone out there is interested, let me know. If we get enough interest, I will build some and see where it goes.


Thanks!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
 
I have ob-1 and I don't even notice the ferrule. But I would also preffer a more traditional ferrule. I have a bad feeling that something bad would happen to the ferrule.I don't have the guts to break with ob1 shaft.I'm from Europe and if something is wrong I have to ship the shaft to usa.I believe ob would take care of it, but i lost min 80$ on transport only not to mention time.The same is with fiber pad.If it's normal, i pay someone here to replace it and it's 5 times cheaper than the transport to usa.
Comparing to the predator: it still has a bit of a "dead" hit, like all glued shafts but still much better then the 314-2. It deflects a bit more.The taper is perfect.It's not as stiff as the 314-2 which i like.
What I think it could be better with ob:too LIGHT!!I have a wood-wood joint and the original shaft was heavier.The weight distribution is worse then it was.I understand the principles of squirt and I have no idea how to solve this.It could be just a bit stiffer.
 
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I don't think anybody can tell you what shaft you will like. I traded for a Schon IV shaft for my Schon stl-7 and that's what I'm playing with. It depends a lot on your game and your stroke. You would probably be better off hitting with different shafts and then making up your mind if you have a local place which has some different cues for sale and will allow you to hit balls with them prior to buying.
 
I play with the 314-3. I got it from some guy who knows a guy, who knows a guy, who robbed some guy.

Anyway i like my Pred shaft
 
Snipershot,

Well, that's fair enough!

I have always said that we will build what people will buy, so I will have to look at it! If there is enough demand for it, then we will build it!

Anyone else out there who would be interested in an OB-1 with a regular ferrule? We would be talking much more squirt. Probably not as much as many conventional shafts, but certainly more than what we have now.

Before someone suggests it, I will not build any cue shafts with a hole in the end like Predator does. Predator is a great company and their construction methods are patent protected. I would never copy a patented design.


So, if anyone out there is interested, let me know. If we get enough interest, I will build some and see where it goes.


Thanks!

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

Maybe I am reading this wrong, but it seems to me that I have angered you. I had no intentions of making you mad or insulting you in any way Royce. I appreciate very much your ingenuity and guts to go in a different direction, and I will continue to reccomend your shafts, I was just stating my opinion. If I am reading too much into this then I apologize, but if I have insulted you in some way I want it to be known that was never my intentions. I was only trying to make a positive suggestion that could snag a piece of the market for you. Predator is a good company, they have done much for pool, but like I have said many times over, I will go out of my way to buy American, even if it is a little more expensive. Again, sorry Royce for any misunderstanding.



Joe
 
hello royce. I see why you use that ferrule, but maybe you might consider making a different model of shaft with a more traditional ferrule? It may have a bit more deflection, but it would be much more appealing to the general population. I have tried an ob, like i said in a previous post, and i loved the hit, i played it for a few weeks, but in the end, even though the hit wasnt as good, the 314-2 was what i played with due to the ferrule. I tried my best to like it, i really did, but i just cant use that maple ferrule. I need that white contrast on the end of my cue, dont know why, but i need it.


Joe

im right there with you on that my cousin has and ob-1 and i cant play with it. It just looks funny i can't play b/c im allways looking at the ferrule to make sure it not broke
 
I love the ob1! I have a pre cat 314 , a 314-2, and a BK2.

My favorite is the OB1.


For the people who can't deal with the ferrule, I wonder if you could just paint it white? I know it is not the best option, but I wonder if you could just color it somehow.

Royce, maybe do a model with a whitewash stain in the maple? Or what about a carbon fiber ferrule ( in white?). Not sure if this could be an option or not.

The ferrule has never been an issue with me, I kinda like it the way it is.

The first time I saw one, it got my attention right away. I thought it was a bit odd. I noticed it when I saw someone else shoot with it, but it is never even a thought when I am playing with one myself.


Jw
 
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