2nd ball 8 ball break
- Thread starter berlowmj
- Start date
depends on the table
On a UK 7ft table it is VERY effective but VERY difficult to perfect. Too much power and the cue ball will land in the next post code.
If you get it right and break the left side of the rack with left draw on the cue ball all the power goes into the centre of the pack and most times i find that the front ball sails into the opposite middle.
Hard to be consistent in longer matches but awesome when you find the sweet spot, sink the 1 and leave a nice spread.
Happy splits
If you get it right and break the left side of the rack with left draw on the cue ball all the power goes into the centre of the pack and most times i find that the front ball sails into the opposite middle.
Hard to be consistent in longer matches but awesome when you find the sweet spot, sink the 1 and leave a nice spread.
Happy splits
I think it produces more action in the pack especially if the balls are dead or of low quality. For me the drawback is control of the rock. I might get a great break but whitey ends up in an unplayable position.
Like the above said, control is hard. I find you have to lighten your break a little and use draw. That should help. I actually break the eight in more often snapping the second ball, too.
Josh
Josh
On a bar table, very effective for ball pocketing and driving the 8-Ball to the side pocket. I break at about a 3-speed and things happen well.
It can only produce the amount of energy that's in the cue ball. If you hit the head ball or the second ball the energy would be the same if all were equal....SPF=randyg
I concur with everyone so far. I definitely use the 2nd ball break when making the 8 on the break equals the win. I would say the recommended is a little inside english with draw is most effective. The CB seems to go to the siderail and back into the pack. This forces the 8-ball to move generally towards the side pocket. Unfortunately I don't believe you are trying to control the CB, just get the 8-ball moving.
One thing not mentioned in the previous posts is that when it's done correctly fewer scratches will occur. This break keeps the cue ball from the middle of the table where it's most likely to be kicked into a pocket.
Someone here mentioned that you need inside english, I believe that to be incorrect, what is needed is outside english with a draw stroke to keep the cue ball from going to the short rail behind where the balls are racked, this will limit your selections if you happen to pocket a ball.
This break has been my bread and butter for many years. I have learned to vary the speed depending on the score and who my opponent is. That subject would be for another thread.
Someone here mentioned that you need inside english, I believe that to be incorrect, what is needed is outside english with a draw stroke to keep the cue ball from going to the short rail behind where the balls are racked, this will limit your selections if you happen to pocket a ball.
This break has been my bread and butter for many years. I have learned to vary the speed depending on the score and who my opponent is. That subject would be for another thread.
The draw stroke does a couple things for the break. Because we can only hit so much of the second ball the cue ball wants to go well past the second diamond so we draw to hit the rail as near to that diamond. Secondly the draw stroke assures that we strike the cue ball with our cue stick as level as possible. This will assure that the cue ball will not leave the table.
The outside english will now take the cue ball off the rail more to the middle of the table. By this time most balls have left the area and it now is safer for the cue ball to go to that area for optimal range of shots.
How does one go about............
How does one one go about breaking a slump?I have done all but,beat myself about the head and ahoulders
Thank You
Irish
How does one one go about breaking a slump?I have done all but,beat myself about the head and ahoulders
Thank You
Irish
It's your best opportunity for making the 8 on the break. The second ball break gets the 8 ball moving. I prefer a little inside and low on the cue ball. Try it............. you might make the 8 !!!!! It is especially effective on bar boxes.
I think it's a pain in the backside to play against someone who uses this break. Just from my personal observation, it seems more often than not, the cue ball ends up along the footrail behind most of the balls. I still prefer the full energy transfer that comes from hitting the point of the rack directly.
Steve
A good reason to use it if the table is breaking tough and you aren't making a ball on the break. Better to leave them on a rail behind a cluster than out on an open table with a shot.
A good reason to use it if the table is breaking tough and you aren't making a ball on the break. Better to leave them on a rail behind a cluster than out on an open table with a shot.
True, but now you have to hope you DON'T make a ball on the break.
It still makes more sense to me to put the full force of the break shot into spreading the balls, and parking the cue ball near mid table. I guess it's just a matter of personal choice, and whether you want to gamble that you will or won't make a ball on the break.
Steve
the cue ball generally does not end up in back of the pack for me. Would you like a break lesson?:grin-square::grin-square:
The lo inside cause the cue ball to rebound frm the rail back into the pack. The cue generally glances back towards the breaker or stays close to the front of the pack. The intent with the 2nd ball break is to move the 8ball. To park the cue in the middle of the table you would have to hit the front ball squarely and hope you make a ball.