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- Thread starter runout1961
- Start date
Go for the 9 footer IMO. I have a Diamond Pro exactly this distance from a wall. And it is fine.
Take the outside dimensions of the table an add a cue stick length x2 for minimal/correct overall length/width.
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Actually, since you can't really hit a rail-frozen ball with a level cue (except on an Olhausen), that will add another couple of inches of stroke space, and even without the wall there it's pretty hard to make more than a 9-inch bridge on the edge of the table anyway, so you're not really losing anything.
Get the 9-footer.
pj
chgo
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Your room is fine for a 9 foot table. I had a two car garage that I converted to a game room and there was more than enough space for the table plus other game room pieces (poker table, chairs, etc).
The "bad" spot in my room is exactly 54 inches from the edge of the table to a vertical strut in a bookcase (I just measured it for you). It should be 56 inches and there would be no problem with my 61" cue stick. In other words I get about 1/2 stroke and then the stick hits the wall.
The bad spot is only encountered when the ball is on the rail and in front of this one place on the bookcase.
To be on the safe side I would have 60 inches from the edge of the table to any shot obstruction. My room was built for this but I left a little extra for a walk way to the back door when I placed the table and messed up in this one spot.
BTW I intentionally built my room in such a way that I have a bookcase along one wall and the stick usually goes inside the case where the books are stored for most shots. This allows me to have "stuff" on the wall.
The bad spot is only encountered when the ball is on the rail and in front of this one place on the bookcase.
To be on the safe side I would have 60 inches from the edge of the table to any shot obstruction. My room was built for this but I left a little extra for a walk way to the back door when I placed the table and messed up in this one spot.
BTW I intentionally built my room in such a way that I have a bookcase along one wall and the stick usually goes inside the case where the books are stored for most shots. This allows me to have "stuff" on the wall.
John,
7 is plenty IMO. Only time it will come into play is dead frozen, shooting perpendicular to rail. When I have those shots, Im shooting medium speed at best and I bet my tip never crosses the back edge of the rail. Not to mention you will be jacked up a few degrees which will help also. Again 7 is PLENTY....you will never touch the wall.
Get the 9fter.
7 is plenty IMO. Only time it will come into play is dead frozen, shooting perpendicular to rail. When I have those shots, Im shooting medium speed at best and I bet my tip never crosses the back edge of the rail. Not to mention you will be jacked up a few degrees which will help also. Again 7 is PLENTY....you will never touch the wall.
Get the 9fter.
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:banghead::banghead::banghead:
Going by them specs I could have put a 9 footer in here If I moved the computer stand.
Going by them specs I could have put a 9 footer in here If I moved the computer stand.
Hello
Figure a 9' table is 41/2 x 9' overal measurements
Each side and end to use a 57" cue would add 5' to measurement on each side and ends that would total 14 1/2 x 19'
If the rails are roughly 6" wide you would subtract a total of 12" from each measurement which would leave you with 13 1/2 x 18' size of room to play with a 57" cue.
A 8' table is roughly 4 x 8 and you would do the same with this table taking 12" from each measurement. So you would need 13 x 17 room size.
Come check out some of our tables. We manufacture tables.
Ron
Figure a 9' table is 41/2 x 9' overal measurements
Each side and end to use a 57" cue would add 5' to measurement on each side and ends that would total 14 1/2 x 19'
If the rails are roughly 6" wide you would subtract a total of 12" from each measurement which would leave you with 13 1/2 x 18' size of room to play with a 57" cue.
A 8' table is roughly 4 x 8 and you would do the same with this table taking 12" from each measurement. So you would need 13 x 17 room size.
Come check out some of our tables. We manufacture tables.
Ron
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I hesitate to give others advice because what doesn't bother me might be a big issue for someone else. I have a 9 footer and I have to use a shorter cue called a "troubleshooter" on some shots when the cue ball is on the long rail and I'm shooting across the table, but it doesn't come up very often and I would not get a smaller table simply to avoid having to use the shorter stick once in a while.
If your over 6 ft tall don't forget to figure how far back your rear foot will be from the table. my opinion is you need at least 6 ft from the outer edge of the table to be sure.
I would post on "ask a mechanic" one of the experts would know for sure.
My room in my home available for a table is 16 by 13, not big enough for a 9 footer I guess. 
Dimensions
Add 10 feet to the legnth and width of your table. Believe it or not this is still a little tight.
4 1/2 x 9 needs 14 1/2 x 19 feet
3 1/2 x 7 needs 13 1/2 x 17 feet
Good luck,
Nick
Add 10 feet to the legnth and width of your table. Believe it or not this is still a little tight.
4 1/2 x 9 needs 14 1/2 x 19 feet
3 1/2 x 7 needs 13 1/2 x 17 feet
Good luck,
Nick
I cant stand playing on a table in a cramped room, pool is hard enough already. The last thing I want to deal with is using a "Shorty" If the CB lands in a certain area of the table where the walls or whatever cramps me up. I'd much rather have a table that is smaller that fits the room and I can use my cue at anytime from any spot on the table-and not have to worry about a ding in the butt of it. Thats just me, infact when I'm in a room thats cramped I dont play good as I'm distracted by the trouble areas on the table.
Now dont take this the wrong way, I'm not a great player-but I play hard and good enough that I see my patterns and pick my routes before I shot my first shot after the break, I dont like having to consider anything getting in my way or like I said before the CB stopping in a bad spot that is in my pattern. Now if your not that strong or serious of a player then it really isnt important. Please dont take that the wrong way, I have seen players far better than me with tables in their houses and had tight spots and they were ok with it. So its up to you,
You could open up the walls and remove a few studs, if they arnt bearing too much weight and shore up the sides of the opening and paint the inside of the wall, I have see that done and you pick up 8" if you can open up both sides, which is a lot of distance.
I'm a perfectionest, if I cant build it perfect I wait until I can. I'm very critical of the things I own(usually they arnt good enough or I can see ways to improve them, or the quality sucks-thats a charcter flaw I have), But I do have one hell of a pool room in my house that I'm very happy with, I did it super cheap too. I was lucky it worked out like it did. I'm going to miss it when I sell the house. I have built lots of them so I know what I like. Acustics, lighting, the whole bit.
let me know if I can help the OP here,
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