My first point forearm

SK Custom Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
After turning down the points, I noticed some gaps in the tips of the points. I know my miters weren't super clean, but when I glued em in, I thought they were in there good... The sides of the points turned out good..... I used a 90 degree bit in my router table and sliced them right down the middle. I think next time, I will try the clamp method and run em across my V-bit..... just thought I would share this exciting new discovery..... Cue making is so fun... :smile:

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Hey Sung I see you have your chuck mounted,did everything go ok?.

Yes, thanks to u. I had to borrow Leon's spanner wrench to change it, but after several days of fiddling and finally figuring out how to tap the chuck into place, I got it!!!!!

I appreciate you working with me on that Tom. I got the chuck within a couple thou.
 
After turning down the points, I noticed some gaps in the tips of the points. I know my miters weren't super clean, but when I glued em in, I thought they were in there good... The sides of the points turned out good..... I used a 90 degree bit in my router table and sliced them right down the middle. I think next time, I will try the clamp method and run em across my V-bit..... just thought I would share this exciting new discovery..... Cue making is so fun... :smile:

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Sung,
Id say You're on Your Way"
Nice points and forearm...
 
After turning down the points, I noticed some gaps in the tips of the points. I know my miters weren't super clean, but when I glued em in, I thought they were in there good... The sides of the points turned out good..... I used a 90 degree bit in my router table and sliced them right down the middle. I think next time, I will try the clamp method and run em across my V-bit..... just thought I would share this exciting new discovery..... Cue making is so fun... :smile:

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It's very apparent that your initial glue up of your veneer sheets is fine however the cutting of your veneers at 45 deg and then regluing to form a 90 deg is horrible. It makes no difference if the veneer stack is cut through and rejoined or if it is cut and folded the final joint between the veneers has to be a tight fitting, 90 deg angle with no voids or glue lines. Once this is accomplished successfully, the outside of the veneer joint must be a clean and sharp 90 deg and the mating V-grove pocket must also be very acute so that there is a perfect fit between the sharp inlay and the bottom of the sharp V.

Dick
 
Yes, it was horrible. When I cut the 45 on the veneers, I didn't cut all the way through. I wanted to try to stay a bit under. It was when I folded it when the problems started to happen. Live and learn. I appreciate your cander. Will try better next time.
 
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Yes, it was horrible. When I cut the 90 on the veneers, I didn't cut all the way through. I wanted to try to stay a bit under. It was when I folded it when the problems started to happen. Live and learn. I appreciate your cander. Will try better next time.

I'll give you a helpful hint. If you intend trying to fold the veneers you must leave about a .005 or .006 of uncut veneer to act as a hinge. This will give you around 2 folds before it breaks. More importantly, if you intend to fold your veneers then a 90 deg V-cutter will not work. When you fold and glue the final angle will either be less than 90 deg or there will be a glue line similar to what you now have.

Dick
 
If you're having trouble with mitering/folding the veneers, then why not try the "stacking" method. You will not have the same problems with that. Southwest does their veneers this way, and I believe Chris demonstrates it in his videos. Simply apply a veneer strip to two sides of your point stock 180 degrees from each other, glue and trim the edges flush, then do the other two sides. Tadaa, no glue line!

BTW, is it just me, or does it bother anyone else when people "quote" a post and leave all of the photos in? It only takes a moment to remove the tag data. No offence intended to those who did it in this thread, it just seemed like a good time to mention it...

Mr H <--- admittedly anal about some things
 
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Thanks for showing your early work on points. Not only does it give me hope that someday I might make a pointed forearm, but I get to learn from everyone else constructive comments. Looks like you are well on your way!!!

Larry
 
It happens all over the board and seems a big waist of band width.
One can either just get rid of the images or do a copy and paste of the text needed and use HTML.
your text here [/ quote]
Remove space from the backslash and the Q.
 
You can do the stac k method but you should really learn to do the miter perfect. It will pay odd in the end trust me. You have a great start tho. I tried using the methods you mentioned above and didnt have good results

also you can use masking tape to act as a hinge on the back of your veneers and use some super glue gel to fold your veneers before gluing into your forearm
 
congrats

hey sung,

congrats on your first forearm. yea yea yea, of course there's room for improvement, but hey, aint it exciting knowing that you've come this far already?

can't wait to see your own personal style evolve.

keep us posted
 
Split

I've had this happen before too. My veneers were cut and glued just fine. The problem was that the veneers at the end extended about an inch past the v-groove and so did the point wood. If you can picture about about an inch of veneer and point wood extending beyond the groove and being unsoported. The problem occurred when I wrapped the surgical tubing all the way up even on the part that extended past the v-groove. It caused the point wood to split the miter on the veneers apart. At least that is what I envisioned happening. I don't let my veneers or point wood extend past the groove at all and have not had the problem since. Sorry if I'm not painting a clear picture, kind of hard to explain.
 
It can only get better from here......looks good for a first time though. Hang in there and you will get much better. You have the drive for it!
 
BTW, is it just me, or does it bother anyone else when people "quote" a post and leave all of the photos in? It only takes a moment to remove the tag data. No offence intended to those who did it in this thread, it just seemed like a good time to mention it...

Mr H <--- admittedly anal about some things[/QUOTE]

You don't stand alone on this Mr H.
For me it's a matter of a dial-up connection. That's all they'll give me.

I can see a purpose for it when it's called for, but I gotta tell ya. It can really slow things down, particularly on my end. No rant, just saying.

And now back to the thread.

SK,
The veneers along-side the points are very nice. Quite impressive for a first attempt. ;)
 
good job

Just my opinion...think that our exposure to all the folks who act as if mitered veneers are the only way to go kinda sucks. Think that if done right stacked veneers look just as good and can bring the same money "if thats what your after" Either way, i feel that whatever style we use is what makes us unique. Anyway, good job

:::My first forearm remains hidden, i commend you on showing yours, know how alot of these folks can be sometimes:grin:
 
I got another one coming soon..... titlist veneers...... done the hightower method... I think this one's gonna be better..... will post when done.
 
Just my opinion...think that our exposure to all the folks who act as if mitered veneers are the only way to go kinda sucks. Think that if done right stacked veneers look just as good and can bring the same money "if thats what your after" Either way, i feel that whatever style we use is what makes us unique. Anyway, good job

:::My first forearm remains hidden, i commend you on showing yours, know how alot of these folks can be sometimes:grin:

In 1993 or 1994 we were in Vegas at a room where the owner wheeled and dealed in cues. At that time I was stacking the veneers, not mitering them. I had one cue with four veneers and the guy looked at the points and wouldn't buy the cue as he said that that was the way that Prather built their points and he wasn't going to take a chance that the cue had a pre-made, Prather prong on the cue. I have never built a cue using that technique since.
Using the stack method is more time consuming building and they all look good. Building mitered veneer cues can be done a little quicker but the final product either looks horrible with the very bad split veneer ends or will give a stacked veneer the five and the last four in looks when done right, where the glue line, if you even see it, is exactly, perfectly mitered.

I also believe that a good mitered set of veneers in a cue is worth hundreds more than stacked, because, as I stated, all stacked veneers are the same. There's no gamble. You are betting even money instead of gambling and getting odds.

Dick
 
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