yet another coring & gluing question

BHQ

BHQ

we'll miss you
Silver Member
i just tried gorilla glue on a core , for the first time
in the past, i've used epoxy
well, i got the core in about 3" and it stuck :shrug:
i couldnt budge it
piece cored .750
my dowel was .744
obviously more clearance is needed :confused:
how much more?
 
Hi, I core at .750 and dowel at .742, .744 should be ok. If you put too much water inside the core it will swell and stop you in your tracks. Wet a paper towel, ring it out and pass it through fast. It does not take much moisture to activate the glue. Good Luck, Rick G
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi, I core at .750 and dowel at .742, .744 should be ok. If you put too much water inside the core it will swell and stop you in your tracks. Wet a paper towel, ring it out and pass it through fast. It does not take much moisture to activate the glue. Good Luck, Rick G
Click to expand...

i wet/dampened a paper towel, wiped on core ,
then squirted glue onto core.
the glue was thick, kinda like cold maple syrup,
best description i can think of
much much thicker than the 20 minute epoxy i normally use
 
ratcues said:
Why did you switch in the first place?
Click to expand...
i'm asking myself the same question
i usually abide by the saying,
"if it aint broke, dont fix it" :)
well, after doing some checking ,
it seems my junky ass calipers are off .003"
might explain it huh
 
You wetted the dowel so it expanded.
Nuke a damp tissue and barely apply moisture on the dowel or hole using a blower.

I like .758 hole/.750 dowel. that way the rings are flush.
.658/.650 combo work too, as I can turn down to .625 .
80 grit sand paper scratching the dowel dun't hurt.
Neither does a tap scratching the hole.
 
i like using the gorilla glue,due to the fact that it foams and gets in every seem.i have seen it penatrate through the grains of the wood,this assures me that there is no voids by pushing the glue out with the dowel.
 
Never wet the dowel. Only wet the inside of the hole. Only put glue on the dowel. Shove it in fast and you should be okay. Cut lots of grooves in the dowel to hold glue.
 
water?

quick question - call me ignorant, but i wasn't aware that things needed to be damp or water needed to be added to gorilla glue.

any particular reasons?
 
rheester said:
quick question - call me ignorant, but i wasn't aware that things needed to be damp or water needed to be added to gorilla glue.

any particular reasons?
Click to expand...

Read the directions....one part of the sections being glued needs to be damp. The Gorilla glue pulls the mositure as an aid to properly cure. Its all I use for coring too...I really like the way it fills gaps & the bond is incredibly strong.
 
rheester said:
quick question - call me ignorant, but i wasn't aware that things needed to be damp or water needed to be added to gorilla glue.

any particular reasons?
Click to expand...
as a plumber for 30 years, it was always in my head, that things should be dry & clean when gluing
i remember reading something on here months ago about it needing water to activate
and for once in my life,
i actually read the instructions FIRST :thumbup:
 
BHQ said:
as a plumber for 30 years, it was always in my head, that things should be dry & clean when gluing
i remember reading something on here months ago about it needing water to activate
and for once in my life,
i actually read the instructions FIRST :thumbup:
Click to expand...

From my experience with poly glue, the moisture content in the wood has always been enough to activate it.
 
i actually read the instructions FIRST
Click to expand...
Men don't need to read directions or road maps.

Apparently I missed the part on the Gorilla Glue instructions that said to wear rubber gloves.

Certain parts of my hands were quite black for several days. Acetone wouldn't even take it off.
 
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