Leather Wrap Seam

riginally Posted by jazznpool View Post
Right on Kenny! One trick at the seam with (properly thinned) contact cement is to not let the cement dry completely before moving the leather into position at the seam. Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.

As he said, you have to be one of his customers before he'll help. ARE YOU?:rolleyes:

I was.....untill I ran out of $$$$$$$:embarrassed2: I haven't bought for a while from Martin. Does it count:D:D.
 
I was.....untill I ran out of $$$$$$$:embarrassed2: I haven't bought for a while from Martin. Does it count:D:D.

With Martin, I'm sure it counts, I only know of one person who doesn't care what you bought yesterday, if your not spending today, He won't even admit to knowing you, He doesn't sell anything in this section, THANK GOD.
 
Of course, but only by a few thousanths and then you sand to blend in toward the center of handle. Are you going to single point an entire wrap channel to fit a cue wrap? I didn"t think so. :smile: I don't know everything but I am willing to be helpful with what I do know about cue leather and installing wraps.

Martin


Okay, tell us. Does that mean, the channel is a little deeper just on the out side.
 
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Are you going to single point an entire wrap channel to fit a cue wrap? I didn"t think so. :smile:
Martin


You bet I have cut a channel that way. The first goal working any tournament is, Don't bring any work home that you could have done at the tourney.
 
leather wrap

Of course, but only by a few thousanths and then you sand to blend in toward the center of handle. Are you going to single point an entire wrap channel to fit a cue wrap? I didn"t think so. :smile: I don't know everything but I am willing to be helpful with what I do know about cue leather and installing wraps.

Martin

Martin,
thanks for the information. It helps.
Bill
 
Right on Kenny! One trick at the seam with (properly thinned) contact cement is to not let the cement dry completely before moving the leather into position at the seam. Another skill to attain is the ability to micro-shave the ends of a wrap channel to custom fit a wrap with a sharp utility blade. I'm glad to assist my wrap customers in any way I can to help them learn or get better results.

Martin


With what do you thin the contact cement? Is there a ratio or is it just to make it less "gooey"? I have a whole quart of this stuff and a few more wraps, so I want to give it another (or more) try before experiementing with a different adhesive.
 
Alan, I use the Durobond Durovulk 233 thinner for Durobond or Topz contact cement (Tiger Products). I thin sparingly until I have the working consistency I like. Without the thinner, the cement thickens just from having the lid off momentarily during installations. The contact cement should not have the cosistency of honey but you don't want it watery either.

Martin



With what do you thin the contact cement? Is there a ratio or is it just to make it less "gooey"? I have a whole quart of this stuff and a few more wraps, so I want to give it another (or more) try before experiementing with a different adhesive.
 
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hahahaha, It's funny, some people sent me emails asking is everythink is okay between Martin and myself. Give me a break. Just because I question or disagree with someone doesn't mean there is a problem. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum and it's not uncommon for people to question or disagree. Some of us, like Ryan, Kj and myself have done what seems like a lifetime of different kinds of repairs, we have seen some things that might make the average person say WTF and think about not working on other makers cues. It's a learning experiance and a good one at that. No single answer is good for everyone. That's why this forum is here!
 
Yes, Poppa Mike and I are okay...so what if he uses white or yellow glue for cue wraps!:D



hahahaha, It's funny, some people sent me emails asking is everythink is okay between Martin and myself. Give me a break. Just because I question or disagree with someone doesn't mean there is a problem. There is a lot of knowledge on this forum and it's not uncommon for people to question or disagree. Some of us, like Ryan, Kj and myself have done what seems like a lifetime of different kinds of repairs, we have seen some things that might make the average person say WTF and think about not working on other makers cues. It's a learning experiance and a good one at that. No single answer is good for everyone. That's why this forum is here!
 
I would like to know if the contact cement works as well and holds as tightly if the two pieces (wrap and handle) are stuck together when the cement has not dried completely, meaning, will it dry completely after joining? I have been waiting at least 10 minutes after applying the cement before installing wrap and about 15 minutes after applying the cement for the seam and am having the same problems with the seam as others seem to be having. Does the white "Elmer's" hold as well as the contact after drying? Inquiring minds want to know.

Dick
 
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I would like to know if the contact cement works as well and holds as tightly if the two pieces (wrap and handle) are stuck together when the cement has not dried completely, meaning, will it dry completely after joining? I have been waiting at least 10 minutes after applying the cement before installing wrap and about 15 minutes after applying the cement for the seam and am having the same problems with the seam as others seem to be having. Does the white "Elmer's" hold as well as the contact after drying? Inquiring minds want to know.

Dick

Hi Dick
It holds very well, I haven't had one lift yet. Elmers gives you good working time but it does dry quick so cut it with some water. I have seen contact cement used at the expo, the guys seem to like it cause the can work that seam real well, if it's cut correctly, as most use one of those jigs, it should go tegether pretty well, I still just use a ruler and put a piece of tape above and below the wrap, draw a line for the straight edge, put one side down, cut, put the other side down cut, DONE. Pretty much what the jig was designed to do. If you can lock your chuck, same thing as the jig holding the cue. Ooops, I'm rambling again, sorry, ANYWAY, I took a wrap off today that contact cement had been used, Man it was some work getting that glue off. Elmers, take off the wrap, use a damp sponge, breaks it right down. I tell my Cue maker friends that I'm just contact cement stupid, it's in my head, I just can't work with that junk.. When I learned how to do leather, I used, Titebond cause that's what I was showed to use, It gave great working time and I have no disrespect for the people who still use it, , BUT, replacing the wrap down the road for what ever the reason, FUDGE that.
 
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It looks like everyone has their own way of doing this. I started this thread thinking there was a "best" way. I suppose their is, but it's best for each person. I didn't try the Titebond, but I did try the rest of the ideas here. Using Elmer's alone, I had a hard time keeping the wrap from slipping around. Maybe I used too much water -- not sure. It was obvious that it would work with Elmer's alone, but I found it cumbersome. I tried again with just contact cement and had the same issues as before, which was all seam related. Then, I tried thinning the contact cement. That was messy, and I didn't really like it. There's an art to it and I dont' have the master's touch. Also, the added setup time left a lot of fumes in the shop. Finally, I combined the suggestions and came upon the "best" way for me. I'm using the Wrap Magic jig for cutting, maybe that's why this works for me. Anyway, after finding a centerline of the cue and cutting the wrap to length (with it's center line noted on tape), I run a peice of masking tape on the opposite side of the cue's marked centerline. I put contact cement on the cue wrap groove and the wrap - - wait about 5 minutes until it's dried, and then install. That leaves 3/4" of unattached wrap and excess wrap width. I put the cue in the jig and cut the seam. Then, I use lightly thinned Elmer's for the last 3/4". It allows me some time to get that seam together and flattened. For security, I start on one end of the cue, work it a little and apply some masking tape to hold it in place (not sure if I need the tape, but it makes me feel better). I do this about every 2 inches or so. Works for me. The wrap is stuck tite and the seam looks . . . where is it?

I had to do a lot of prep work and went through several wraps, but it was worth it. Thanks to everyone for the advise and ideas.
 
Bump it up for a good read. Installing leather wrap was the most profitable aspect for cue repair for me in my first year so it definitely worth the time to get it right. In my first year using my lathe part time as a hobby, I've installed over 30 leather wrap plus some linen which pretty much cover my expense for the lathe. I tried contact cement and it wasn't for me..the wait time was too long...a friend turn me to Elmer glue and I was able to do a decent wrap job in 20 minutes and faster if I don't have to cut the wrap groove. Lizard wrap was the easiest for me to install and most profitable.

Regards,
Duc.
 
Just to add one more option. I have installed many headliners in old cars using spray contact cement. So when I tryed my first leather wrap, I used what I was used to. 3M spray contact cement. I have only done three leather wraps but have had good luck with it.

Larry
 
Yes, you put the seam together when the contact is slightly moist--not wet but not bone dry either. When done properly, any excess adhesive rolls off the seam and ends when rubbed. I've only heard of one leather wrap reacting to a certain 3m spray contact adhesive. Water based adhesives will ruin many leathers if the adhesive gets on the face of the leather. It may also discolor some leathers as the moisture wicks through to the surface. I am speaking mostly of the natural or completely "naked" and uncoated leathers. Hey, if you put your wraps on with peanut butter and it works for you, god bless.

Martin




I would like to know if the contact cement works as well and holds as tightly if the two pieces (wrap and handle) are stuck together when the cement has not dried completely, meaning, will it dry completely after joining? I have been waiting at least 10 minutes after applying the cement before installing wrap and about 15 minutes after applying the cement for the seam and am having the same problems with the seam as others seem to be having. Does the white "Elmer's" hold as well as the contact after drying? Inquiring minds want to know.

Dick
 
Dave, smoooooth PB.
Maybe it works, I know when I put some on the roof of my dogs mouth, it takes her forever to get it off.
 
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