> A surface prep trick I use is pretty anal,but it works.
Before using CA to seal the bottom,and after the initial sanding of the bottom,I take the long,flat edges of a razor blade and scrape off all the dust and shavings that might be present.
I then coat the bottom and let it soak in as much glue as it wants. Then I put just a little more on there and let it soak in too,and when it stays wet I wipe the rest off.
I have a ground steel plate with adhesive-backed 180 on it,and use that for initial sanding. I use another plate with 320 for cleaning up after sealing.
I use the blade again to remove dust before applying the actual tip glue.
I've also been known to use a spray-bottle CA accelerator,usually with the softer ferrule materials like CueTec,Players,etc. These tend to be waxy as well.
I've also done this for years. When I try a new glue,or if my current open tube is over a couple weeks old,to establish trust in it,I lock a pair of pliers down on the side of the tip before I start cutting,and actually try fairly hard to break it loose. If the glue is going to fail,I'd much rather have it happen while it's still in the lathe,rather than 2 weeks later and have to eat my own work.
The sealing (or should I say the Searing?) method as described in this thread is best accomplished by using the really thin,"hot" products such as the Loctite from Wal-Mart in the squeeze bottle with the red sides,or a hobby-type like Satellite City Hot Stuff. Tommy D.
