What's your shot?

TATE

TATE

AzB Gold Mensch
Silver Member
Here's a situation that comes up quite often in 9 ball.

You had to play to tight position on the 6 and rolled up straight in at cue ball position B, leaving an awkward angle on the 7.

What's the best way to play this out?

Chris


CueTable Help

 
I would try to draw it back a foot or so for the 7 in the side, if I go over that's fine, because the 7 goes in the bottom corner pocket.
 
I would draw back to play the 7 in the same pocket. I would make sure to err on over drawing it a diamond, rather than come up short.


Eric >or, low left, go 3 rails :wink:
 
Neil said:
Just draw it straight back to where you are. Then cut the 7 in the same pocket, getting natural shape on the 8 using a stun shot.
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You're too good at this.

The other ways leave awkward angles to get to the 8. I see many players miss the simple move of just dawing back to stay in line.

Surprising how often this comes up.

Chris
 
If the cue ball was in good shape (clean) I would also draw and play it to the same corner as the six. If it was hard to move the cue ball back I would roll forward and play the off angle to the top right corner leaving the cb east of the side for a soft shot at the eight.
 
My choice

I would also elect a simple draw...

This seems to be a fairly basic out. The "window" to hit on the draw is huge and the shape is natural afterwards...
 
TATE said:
You're too good at this.

The other ways leave awkward angles to get to the 8. I see many players miss the simple move of just dawing back to stay in line.

Surprising how often this comes up.

Chris
Click to expand...

I agree Tate. It boils down to thinking 3 balls ahead. Where do I want to be on this ball to get on that ball to get on the next ball.
 
The draw shot seems to be the ideal selection for this shot however there are more things to consider here other that what appears to be ideal.

If you're in good stroke and the playing conditions are to your liking then that is the shot. In a game where you're feeling the table and the score may allow you to miscue, over hit the the cue ball, rattle the pocket because of excessive speed, among other things, and still win the game then fine. This option requires a fair amount of power to have the cue ball go forward about three feet and then draw back wards about three feet.

In a game where you are under duress and everything doesn't come so easy because of the table conditions like tight pockets, worn cloth, humidity, hill hill, then you must consider options with less risk, even if you have to work a bit harder.

Under the later conditions I would prefer to just draw the ball to position the seven for bottom right pocket. This just needs a few inches of draw and will allow me to minimize the speed on the six ball giving it a much better chance to drop.
 
then what?

dabarbr said:
The draw shot seems to be the ideal selection for this shot however there are more things to consider here other that what appears to be ideal.

If you're in good stroke and the playing conditions are to your liking then that is the shot. In a game where you're feeling the table and the score may allow you to miscue, over hit the the cue ball, rattle the pocket because of excessive speed, among other things, and still win the game then fine. This option requires a fair amount of power to have the cue ball go forward about three feet and then draw back wards about three feet.

In a game where you are under duress and everything doesn't come so easy because of the table conditions like tight pockets, worn cloth, humidity, hill hill, then you must consider options with less risk, even if you have to work a bit harder.

Under the later conditions I would prefer to just draw the ball to position the seven for bottom right pocket. This just needs a few inches of draw and will allow me to minimize the speed on the six ball giving it a much better chance to drop.
Click to expand...

Then how do you get on the 8-ball "under the tough conditions" when the cue ball is sitting on the rail?
 
If I know the equipment, I will cheat the pocket with the six (towards the rail), and float follow the cue ball (6-10inches) away from the rail, to play the 7 straight up the long rail as I will be on the proper side of it to get easy shape on the 8.
 
I like drawing the ball back to about where it is as well. This is one of those shots were you often see players cinch the ball and end up jacked up with a bad angle on the 7. Just one of those cases where the highest percentage play isn't the most obvious play, kind of like this shot:

CueTable Help



I see a lot of players play this shot 2 or 3 rails, which not only brings the side pocket into play, but often results in falling too straight on the 7 to easily get to the 8. The highest percentage play, one rail with low-right, seems to be overlooked a lot.

Aaron
 
I gotta agree that optimally, the yanking of ye olde stone is the shot.

As pointed out, just making that ball can be tuff in real life. I often (aka: Diamond pro-cut) find myself cinching the ball on straight/ close to the rail shots.

How do you make the 7 and get on 8? The 7 across the table has a bit of an easier entry...+ I am R) handed!
 
Aaron_S said:
I like drawing the ball back to about where it is as well. This is one of those shots were you often see players cinch the ball and end up jacked up with a bad angle on the 7. Just one of those cases where the highest percentage play isn't the most obvious play, kind of like this shot:

CueTable Help



I see a lot of players play this shot 2 or 3 rails, which not only brings the side pocket into play, but often results in falling too straight on the 7 to easily get to the 8. The highest percentage play, one rail with low-right, seems to be overlooked a lot.

Aaron
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Here:

I would pocket the 6 with a high left and go three rails back out to center table and play the 7 in the same pocket to come back across between the 8 and 9.
 
Poolfiend said:
Here:

I would pocket the 6 with a high left and go three rails back out to center table and play the 7 in the same pocket to come back across between the 8 and 9.
Click to expand...

And I'm sure it works most of the time, but playing top level 9-ball is about finding the shots that work most-er of the time. The right handed draw shot provides the correct angle 100% of the time, speed is a no-brainer, and you don't have to pound the ball or use inside spin, so rattling the pocket is less likely. ;)

Aaron
 
DWoods6354 said:
Then how do you get on the 8-ball "under the tough conditions" when the cue ball is sitting on the rail?
Click to expand...

Looking at the layout I don't see getting on the eight as much of a problem as making sure that I that a shot at the seven. The side pocket is available along with the follow option for the corner pocket.

We have all been in my scenario where the pressure leaves us with little confidence in our abilities so we look for things that are simple and will assure us another shot.

I like Crown City Corey option of opting for the top corner pocket also, very little to do here.
 
K.i.s.s.

TATE said:
Here's a situation that comes up quite often in 9 ball.

You had to play to tight position on the 6 and rolled up straight in at cue ball position B, leaving an awkward angle on the 7.

What's the best way to play this out?

Chris


CueTable Help

Click to expand...


Make the 6 with stun to get the CB off the rail. From there (the cone of probability), you get shape on the 7 allowing you to easily get to the 8. KISS

It's a Tom Cruise runnout you wankensphincterhiemers, just get the CB off the rail!! My Grandma's out from here (but she still refuses to give me weight, that sly ole fox).

;)


next... ;)
 
Aaron_S said:
And I'm sure it works most of the time, but playing top level 9-ball is about finding the shots that work most-er of the time. The right handed draw shot provides the correct angle 100% of the time, speed is a no-brainer, and you don't have to pound the ball or use inside spin, so rattling the pocket is less likely. ;)

Aaron
Click to expand...

Playing top level nine ball is knowing where whitey fits.:D I agree with your thought process but in this case the c/b won't even go between the 7 and the rail. In this case a two or three rail is best. Perhaps next time you should measure a little more careful.:smile:

Rod
 
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