What's the best rack for 14.1?

C

CharlieHustle

What is, is.
Silver Member
I'm having the table re-clothed and I always draw the outline of the rack on the cloth. Last time I drew a line around a fairly thick oak rack. It just dawned on me that if I used a thinner rack, it's more likely that the break ball will fall outside the rack area thus giving the shooter a better chance of keeping the run going.

So with this in mind, I'd like your suggestions as to type or make of a rack that would make the tightest outline around the balls. Right now I'm thinking it would be the cheap acrylic one that has the curved lip and drawing the outline around it with the curved lip on top and the other side lying on the cloth. Any thoughts?
 
I have a Delta 13 (regular) and with a good set of balls, it provides a tight rack.
 
i use a delta-13, and i have the rack outline. After playing 14.1 on a day to day basis, I dont need the rack anymore. The balls just fall into the right place. Delta Racks are my vote.
 
Delta 13

Thanks for the feedback guys. Ok, so there is the Delta-13 regular, and the elite version. The elite is the one over $100.

But tell me this. Do you notice a difference in the way the balls spread over other racks?
 
Maybe I misunderstood the original post. When you said you were looking for the rack that would give the tightest outline I took that to mean the smallest footprint when drawing the rack area so that break balls close to the rack may not fall in the rack area.

The Delta certainly is an excellent rack that provides a good tight cluster and is my choice for 14.1 but I don't think it provides the tightest outline. The Delta is a little over-sized compared to the cheapy plastic racks. This is good because it allows you to get your fingers in better behind the back row to true up all the balls when racking, but the outline drawn around a Delta will be a little bigger in the back particularly. It really isn't much thicker around, but it is roomier behind the last row.

If you are really concerned with keeping as many break balls in play as possible (especially those behind the rack) then I would use a cheap, thin plastic rack that has very little room to spare to draw the outline. Then use the Delta for normal play. On those few occasions where the Delta interferes but the slightly smaller cheap rack doesn't, just rack using the cheap rack.

The new 15 ball version of the Slug Doctor is coming out soon. This would probably minimize the interference problems since no triangle is needed to rack the balls.
 
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Good Idea

DogsPlayingPool said:
Maybe I misunderstood the original post. When you said you were looking for the rack that would give the tightest outline I took that to mean the smallest footprint when drawing the rack area so that break balls close to the rack may not fall in the rack area.

The Delta certainly is an excellent rack that provides a good tight cluster and is my choice for 14.1 but I don't think it provides the tightest outline. The Delta is a little over-sized compared to the cheapy plastic racks. This is good because it allows you to get your fingers in better behind the back row to true up all the balls when racking, but the outline drawn around a Delta will be a little bigger in the back particularly. It really isn't much thicker around, but it is roomier behind the last row.

If you are really concerned with keeping as many break balls in play as possible (especially those behind the rack) then I would use a cheap, thin plastic rack that has very little room to spare to draw the outline. Then use the Delta for normal play. On those few occasions where the Delta interferes but the slightly smaller cheap rack doesn't, just rack using the cheap rack.

The new 15 ball version of the Slug Doctor is coming out soon. This would probably minimize the interference problems since no triangle is needed to rack the balls.
Click to expand...

This is an excellent idea. I think I'll wait until the 15 ball Slug Doctor comes out, then draw the line around that area. Great idea! Thanks.
 
Keep in mind that the cheapo plastic rack still has to be used to rack the balls and the lip on it will still get in the way of the 15th ball regardless if it is put on upside down.

The thickness of those plastic racks simulates rather well the over all thickness of a wooden rack and IMO should be outlined including this area because you won't be able to place the rack over the balls anyway, the lip will still hit the break ball.

I'd get a halfway decent wooden rack unless you are fortunate enough to have deeper pockets, and then certainly the aluminum ones are nice.

When a ball lies just outside the line of the rack it is a very playable breakball in most cases. The way you are considering this "extremely tight to the balls line" you aren't doing the player any favors IMO. They may now very well end up with a ball outside the line, only to find out it's still no good because it's too close to the rack to make.

Also, if you ever did have to use another rack, the line on the table always should tell and not the different rack, so a little extra room is a good thing.
 
I agree with dpp the first time I played 14.1 using a delta 13 rack I realized how oversizied the corners are.Try it for yourself a ball on top of the rack that could be used as a side pocket break shot is now in the rack .If you play alot of straight pool you will see this rack (all 3 corners )take away alot IMHO
 
3andstop said:
Keep in mind that the cheapo plastic rack still has to be used to rack the balls and the lip on it will still get in the way of the 15th ball regardless if it is put on upside down.

The thickness of those plastic racks simulates rather well the over all thickness of a wooden rack and IMO should be outlined including this area because you won't be able to place the rack over the balls anyway, the lip will still hit the break ball.

I'd get a halfway decent wooden rack unless you are fortunate enough to have deeper pockets, and then certainly the aluminum ones are nice.

When a ball lies just outside the line of the rack it is a very playable breakball in most cases. The way you are considering this "extremely tight to the balls line" you aren't doing the player any favors IMO. They may now very well end up with a ball outside the line, only to find out it's still no good because it's too close to the rack to make.

Also, if you ever did have to use another rack, the line on the table always should tell and not the different rack, so a little extra room is a good thing.
Click to expand...

I thought about this too, but decided the only thing the rack area is supposed to tell you is if a ball is in or out, not whether it is too close to the rack to play into the corner. To me that is up to the judgment of the player, which shouldn't be too difficult with the ball in question sitting there and the rack area drawn on the cloth. So I would probably favor the smaller foot print.

gerard soriano said:
I agree with dpp the first time I played 14.1 using a delta 13 rack I realized how oversizied the corners are.Try it for yourself a ball on top of the rack that could be used as a side pocket break shot is now in the rack .If you play alot of straight pool you will see this rack (all 3 corners )take away alot IMHO
Click to expand...

I don't think the Delta is really any bigger at the spot since it is about the same thickness as most plastic racks. To me the big difference is behind the last row since it is over-sized to better allow you to get your fingers in to true up the balls to the spot.

But this thing about possible side pocket break balls close to the spot gives me carzy idea about using two racks. One normal one for the opening rack and then a sort of specialized 14.1 rack that is truncated across the top to exclude the apex ball - in other words it would be in the shape of the 14 ball rack. That would certainly allow more side pocket break shots near the foot spot. :grin-square:
 
I dunno... I love my Diamond rack. Before someone says, "They're big compared to the Delta or whatever..."--- that 1/4" doesn't make a difference.... the opponent has to use the same rack too. I love that rack.

Dave
 
Have you seen the True Rack, it has no back at all, made of aluminum and it is portable fits in most cases with a long pocket. The price is similiar to the Delta 13 Elite. Racks the balls great. Here is a link to my website, the website is a work in progress. http://www.thetruerack.com/
 
There is a guy out of Indianapolis (I think) that makes an aluminum rack that is hinged. Willie may know who I am talking about. It only has two sides and the hinge allows you to squeeze both sides together making a tight rack. Since there are only two sides one side has nothing to interfere with a ball near the rack. With some practice you could use it with the opening on which ever side the break ball was on.

It is a nice rack, but its NOT cheap :)

Woody
 
elvicash said:
Have you seen the True Rack, it has no back at all, made of aluminum and it is portable fits in most cases with a long pocket. The price is similiar to the Delta 13 Elite. Racks the balls great. Here is a link to my website, the website is a work in progress. http://www.thetruerack.com/
Click to expand...

LOL THATS the one I just couldnt remember the name :thumbup: we must have been posting at the same time.
 
elvicash said:
Have you seen the True Rack, it has no back at all, made of aluminum and it is portable fits in most cases with a long pocket. The price is similiar to the Delta 13 Elite. Racks the balls great. Here is a link to my website, the website is a work in progress. http://www.thetruerack.com/
Click to expand...

With no back side and the other two sides hinged, how do you draw the rack outline on the cloth?
 
woody_968 said:
There is a guy out of Indianapolis (I think) that makes an aluminum rack that is hinged. Willie may know who I am talking about. It only has two sides and the hinge allows you to squeeze both sides together making a tight rack. Since there are only two sides one side has nothing to interfere with a ball near the rack. With some practice you could use it with the opening on which ever side the break ball was on.

It is a nice rack, but its NOT cheap :)

Woody
Click to expand...

Woody thanks for the kind words. The True Rack as I said is made of aluminum
It CNC machined - Made in USA
Bright Anodized available in red, blue or black
Folds into a compact form very portable
User all comment on the high qualiy feel

The rack fits the balls when the balls come together makes the angle

More will be coming shortly on the True Rack including some You Tube video
 
DogsPlayingPool said:
With no back side and the other two sides hinged, how do you draw the rack outline on the cloth?
Click to expand...

The same way as you do with a 3 sided rack. You carefully rack a full set of balls then with out moving the rack from the balls you sharpie down the two sides. I suggest marking the spot line first so you can ensure the rack is not tilted.

The True Rack is fairly thin, each arm is 1/2 inch wide along the left and right side balls.
 
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