Tips of english or stroke?

In fact the tidbit I am referring to has to do with Johnny referencing something about Buddy. :-)

There's a lot more to run the rumor mill about Buddy and his knowledge. Most of the info comes from players who know him and have run with him. He didn't give it up to all of them, just a few.

I used to watch Dave Yeager dispose of 9 ball racks till it got boring. After watching him play for a couple of hours you were convinced the game was easy and you could really do it, too any time you felt like it.

I enjoyed the simple precision he used to run consistent packages on the big table. He wasn't as smooth as Buddy, but he got out as well as anybody. When he was in stroke he was a favorite against all comers.

Three guys with terrific strokes are Corey, Buddy, and Larry Nevel. They all have very similar styles of gripping the cue and stroking motion. While their power levels are displayed quite differently, they still maintain properties that can be emulated and studied.

Best,
Mike
 
Thanks John for posting these results. But I'll have to note that since you used the term "on paper," perhaps a carry over from the other dispute about you know what, your results are supplied "on paper" too. :) And they do seem to contradict Dr. Dave's film NVB.34, which he linked to earlier.

I did video it. But I haven't looked at the video yet to see if it's any good.

The basis of my statements is the belief that the maximum value of the coefficient of friction between tip and ball is essentially constant, and independent of tip dynamics, so to speak. I'd find it hard to give this up without clear and absolute proof. So I'll have to remain a bit skeptical until such is supplied. I think your test is certainly a valid way of going about it, but I, for one, would would like to see the following criteria satisfied. I don't know whether or not your test did so.

Understandable.

1. It should be confirmed that when using a straight stroke, one is cueing right at the miscue limit (e.g., using a vertically striped ball and checking the chalk mark afterward for a 1/2 ball offset...or thereabouts). One should be miscuing too with some frequency.

I don't agree that the cueball must be struck at the miscue limit. That is why I chose a results-based approach. In other words how many ways can you achieve the results?

2. The cueball is arriving at the foot rail along a roughly perpendicular path, give or take a few degrees, of course.

Agreed. I was trying to eliminate swerve.

3. It's not struck so hard that it may not be achieving natural roll before reaching the foot rail.

I don't understand this. The way I did it the ball must be spinning when it hits the rail. If natural roll is achieved then the spin is gone.

4. Preferably, the balls should traveling at roughly the same speed for those shots where a comparison is made. Although this may not be absolutely necessary, we don't want to add another variable to the list.

Again it's results oriented. I think you will find that to achieve the results there is only a limited amount of ways to get there. I.e. if you strike the ball too hard you cannot get the spin to take effect when it hits the rail and if you hit it too slow then the spin wears off before it gets to the rail.

5. Maybe needless to say, the cueball should be struck at the same vertical offset, zero offset (i.e., no top or bottom spin initially) probably being the natural choice.

I agree. Which is why I put the cueball close to the rail. By using the rail to bridge and consciously keeping the cue level it helps to be more consistent with the plane of the cue.

I think the issue is fairly important. If you feel the same and to the extent that you're inspired to do some filming at some point, I'd surely like to see the results. I'm sorry, but I can't do that myself. Thanks again for the feedback.

Jim

I will see if the video I shot last Wednesday is any good and upload it if it is and reshoot it if not.
 
I get your golf analogy. Do you beleve your issues with center ball is an alignment issue? I know for myself that I always align left of center about a tip and I have been working hard to fix that.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.

perhaps i should rephrase, it's not that i can't hit centre ball, it's that i don't because i think i get more consistant results in using a little english.
 
Lining up with left and hitting right. Why would he do this?
I'm not sure, but he ended up getting a kiss he couldn't have possibly wanted and he left an easy hit. My conclusion is that whatever the special technique may have been, the shot was a mistake.
 
I'm not sure, but he ended up getting a kiss he couldn't have possibly wanted and he left an easy hit. My conclusion is that whatever the special technique may have been, the shot was a mistake.

The shot was a mistake but Mr Hatch continues to line up left and hit right on many other shots as well.
 
....I don't agree that the cueball must be struck at the miscue limit. That is why I chose a results-based approach. In other words how many ways can you achieve the results?
When the cueball is struck at some offset not too far from centerball and a swooping stroke is employed to increase the spin, you should be able to achieve the same amount of spin with a straight stroke by hitting a little further out from center. But what happens as you approach the miscue limit? Will the straight stroke then begin falling short of producing the same spin as the swooping stroke? If the maximum coefficient of friction is essentially constant regardless of the type of stroke, then the answer is no. In other words, with the swooping stroke, you'll start miscuing before reaching the miscue limit of the straight stroke.

So, as I see it, you want to try to maximize the spin/speed ratio with a straight stroke by getting out there right at the miscue limit, then see if you can beat that with an added swoop. (Or, alternately, first maximize the spin/speed ratio with a swooping stroke, then try to beat that with a straight one.)

I don't understand this. The way I did it the ball must be spinning when it hits the rail. If natural roll is achieved then the spin is gone.
The cueball loses sidepin rather slowly and retains it well after natural roll sets in (unless it has only a sliver of sidespin to begin with). Rolling doesn't mean the sidespin is gone by any means. The reason for making sure the ball is rolling in both cases (swoop versus straight stroke), is that its forward speed is pretty much "settled in" at that point. That is, the cueball loses forward speed at much slower pace when rolling. Thus, the spin/speed ratio doesn't change much over a short distance. (If the cueball is at one end of the table, it should be rolling by the time it reaches the other end, except for very fast shots approaching break speed.)

Ultimately, we're trying to compare spin/speed ratios produced with both types of stroke. That's what determines the angle it'll take off the cushion. As a bonus, if we compare shots of similar speed then, we're also comparing the amount of absolute spin (i.e., revs per second).

Hope that clarifies some of the motives behind my 'criteria.'

Jim
 
When the cueball is struck at some offset not too far from centerball and a swooping stroke is employed to increase the spin, you should be able to achieve the same amount of spin with a straight stroke by hitting a little further out from center. But what happens as you approach the miscue limit? Will the straight stroke then begin falling short of producing the same spin as the swooping stroke? If the maximum coefficient of friction is essentially constant regardless of the type of stroke, then the answer is no. In other words, with the swooping stroke, you'll start miscuing before reaching the miscue limit of the straight stroke.

So, as I see it, you want to try to maximize the spin/speed ratio with a straight stroke by getting out there right at the miscue limit, then see if you can beat that with an added swoop. (Or, alternately, first maximize the spin/speed ratio with a swooping stroke, then try to beat that with a straight one.)

The cueball loses sidepin rather slowly and retains it well after natural roll sets in (unless it has only a sliver of sidespin to begin with). Rolling doesn't mean the sidespin is gone by any means. The reason for making sure the ball is rolling in both cases (swoop versus straight stroke), is that its forward speed is pretty much "settled in" at that point. That is, the cueball loses forward speed at much slower pace when rolling. Thus, the spin/speed ratio doesn't change much over a short distance. (If the cueball is at one end of the table, it should be rolling by the time it reaches the other end, except for very fast shots approaching break speed.)

Ultimately, we're trying to compare spin/speed ratios produced with both types of stroke. That's what determines the angle it'll take off the cushion. As a bonus, if we compare shots of similar speed then, we're also comparing the amount of absolute spin (i.e., revs per second).

Hope that clarifies some of the motives behind my 'criteria.'

Jim
It seems to me that if I hit the CB on the equator at near miscue or any offset for that matter, that once the ball starts to roll the side spin effect is in fact recuced.
The Axis has changed from vertical to some angle tilted somewhere east or west of north depending on what spin direction is applied.

Maybe I'm wrong. Sure makes sense to me.
 
When the cueball is struck at some offset not too far from centerball and a swooping stroke is employed to increase the spin, you should be able to achieve the same amount of spin with a straight stroke by hitting a little further out from center. But what happens as you approach the miscue limit? Will the straight stroke then begin falling short of producing the same spin as the swooping stroke? If the maximum coefficient of friction is essentially constant regardless of the type of stroke, then the answer is no. In other words, with the swooping stroke, you'll start miscuing before reaching the miscue limit of the straight stroke.

So, as I see it, you want to try to maximize the spin/speed ratio with a straight stroke by getting out there right at the miscue limit, then see if you can beat that with an added swoop. (Or, alternately, first maximize the spin/speed ratio with a swooping stroke, then try to beat that with a straight one.)

The cueball loses sidepin rather slowly and retains it well after natural roll sets in (unless it has only a sliver of sidespin to begin with). Rolling doesn't mean the sidespin is gone by any means. The reason for making sure the ball is rolling in both cases (swoop versus straight stroke), is that its forward speed is pretty much "settled in" at that point. That is, the cueball loses forward speed at much slower pace when rolling. Thus, the spin/speed ratio doesn't change much over a short distance. (If the cueball is at one end of the table, it should be rolling by the time it reaches the other end, except for very fast shots approaching break speed.)

Ultimately, we're trying to compare spin/speed ratios produced with both types of stroke. That's what determines the angle it'll take off the cushion. As a bonus, if we compare shots of similar speed then, we're also comparing the amount of absolute spin (i.e., revs per second).

Hope that clarifies some of the motives behind my 'criteria.'

Jim

You have got to be kidding me! Is this all you got? :grin:

Jim, you continue to come up with some really great information in these threads. The idea of combining strokes is extremely interesting. This could possibly be the key element in understanding how and why the crossover cueing is used.

Without insight, you can look at something a thousand times and not really see it for what it is. Thanks for your research and keep it coming! :thumbup:

Best,
Mike
 
When the cueball is struck at some offset not too far from centerball and a swooping stroke is employed to increase the spin, you should be able to achieve the same amount of spin with a straight stroke by hitting a little further out from center.
This is what I thought. But actually what I observed is that using a straight stroke at the miscue limit it's very difficult to get the same amount of spin as when I start with center ball and swipe across the cue ball. Swiping produced more spin than stroking straight.


But what happens as you approach the miscue limit? Will the straight stroke then begin falling short of producing the same spin as the swooping stroke? If the maximum coefficient of friction is essentially constant regardless of the type of stroke, then the answer is no. In other words, with the swooping stroke, you'll start miscuing before reaching the miscue limit of the straight stroke.

I didn't find that I miscued using the swooping stroke unless I started to the right of center when trying to apply right spin.

So, as I see it, you want to try to maximize the spin/speed ratio with a straight stroke by getting out there right at the miscue limit, then see if you can beat that with an added swoop. (Or, alternately, first maximize the spin/speed ratio with a swooping stroke, then try to beat that with a straight one.)

I don't think it's possible to swoop and hit the ball without miscuing when the cue tip is already addressing the cue ball at or near the miscue limit.

The cueball loses sidepin rather slowly and retains it well after natural roll sets in (unless it has only a sliver of sidespin to begin with). Rolling doesn't mean the sidespin is gone by any means.

I am either misunderstanding you or disagreeing with you. From what I have seen the cue ball hit with side spin will slide down the table until a certain point at which the side spin lessens considerably and the cue ball is rolling forward. This is essentially one of the major skills in pool that few people master, which is the ability to accurately judge how hard to hit the ball so that the side spin is still effective when the cue ball reaches the target.

I would like to see a video of a natural rolling cue ball with significant side spin. I confess that I am somewhat out of my depth trying to converse about this aspect. Which again is why I chose a task with a starting point and and end point where I could try to hit the ball every way I can and see which methods achieve the goal.



The reason for making sure the ball is rolling in both cases (swoop versus straight stroke), is that its forward speed is pretty much "settled in" at that point. That is, the cueball loses forward speed at much slower pace when rolling. Thus, the spin/speed ratio doesn't change much over a short distance. (If the cueball is at one end of the table, it should be rolling by the time it reaches the other end, except for very fast shots approaching break speed.)

Again the task-based approach pretty much determines what the cue ball will be doing when it hits the end rail. In other words I believe that it is ONLY possible to hit it a few ways and still complete the task. You can play around with spin/speed all you want but at the end I think you will find that there are only a few ways to get there and of those few only one that is really accurate.

Ultimately, we're trying to compare spin/speed ratios produced with both types of stroke. That's what determines the angle it'll take off the cushion. As a bonus, if we compare shots of similar speed then, we're also comparing the amount of absolute spin (i.e., revs per second).

I don't really know how to judge speed accurately without a radar gun. As noted above though higher speeds don't complete the task so there is a definite threshhold where the speed is simply to high for the cue ball to hit the side rail in the designated zone no matter how you hit it. (masse' shots excepted of course) In this test you can't really use distance of travel as a way to judge speed because of the variables in hitting two rails with maximum spin. Well, I guess it's possible to map out the distance traveled with any shot and get an idea of the speed but I think it's sort of irrelevant. I am going to go out on a limb and say that I believe that with most shots requiring a combination of speed/spin to get the cue to X position there are two and maybe three ways to do it using a fairly level cue. I would say three is pushing it.

Hope that clarifies some of the motives behind my 'criteria.'

Jim

Honestly I don't quite understand because I am certainly not a mathematician nor a physicist.

But for the sake of "science" I will do the test and let you analyze it :-)
 
Deflection has to play into also. This technique (crossover cueing) would have to be similar to BHE, thus creating less deflection.
 
Well, it should be clear by now, it's all about knowing how to stroke.

Sure, there are limits, and that is where knowing how to stroke comes into play. Those limits even change from day to day, table to table, ball to ball.

Insights come from everywhere......if you are paying attention.

The quality of the stroke is seldom discussed. It is always "the stroke". How fast, where on the CB and at what angle the cue tip impacts and passing through where the CB was at is where all this so called magic spin comes from.

And the only way to get this magic spin stroke is to spend hours and hours at the table doing trail and error on stroking the CB to get that magic type of spin. The "Wonder what happens if I hit the CB this way with this much stroke speed" to see what happens. And then change something and do again.

Practicing is not always about making as many balls as possible, or running x amount racks, but learning how to control the spin of the CB and then learning when to apply that type of spin.

This is how the spin master became such.

BTW........I get alot of great compliments on my stroke from alot pool players and 3 cushion players. I got a stroke but it has taken many, many hours(close to 500-600 hours this year) at the table to truly understand how to stroke and the real depth of what can and can not be done with a stroke.

I just need to learn how to win.....

Oh, how long can you spin the CB?
 
It seems to me that if I hit the CB on the equator at near miscue or any offset for that matter, that once the ball starts to roll the side spin effect is in fact recuced.
The Axis has changed from vertical to some angle tilted somewhere east or west of north depending on what spin direction is applied.

Maybe I'm wrong. Sure makes sense to me.
3kush, what you say is true, the axis is no longer vertical. It's now spinning about two axes: one vertical and one horizontal. The roll spin about the horizontal axis is added to the english, with the result that it's spinning faster about the tilted axis. Since the ball is slowed down by cloth friction on the way to developing natural roll, the sidespin/speed ratio is also increased.

But for a ball kicked perpendicularly into a cushion, comparing stun with english versus roll with english, frankly, I'm not sure which generates the larger angle off the cushion. The higher sidespin/speed ratio suggests it would be the rolling cueball. But that's only true if roughly the same amount of sidespin is removed by the cushion (i.e., "converted" into translational motion parallel to the cushion). The addition of the roll spin may preclude that. That uncertainty, though, is a reason for making sure the ball is rolling before reaching the cushion in the stroke test, to eliminate that variable. You don't want to compare shots with the ball in different states of topspin, methinks.

Hope that makes some sense.

Jim
 
Ok show us how to stroke a corner to corner draw shot where the balls are at least six diamonds apart and you need to get the cue back down to the rail you are standing at.



Well, it should be clear by now, it's all about knowing how to stroke.

Sure, there are limits, and that is where knowing how to stroke comes into play. Those limits even change from day to day, table to table, ball to ball.

Insights come from everywhere......if you are paying attention.

The quality of the stroke is seldom discussed. It is always "the stroke". How fast, where on the CB and at what angle the cue tip impacts and passing through where the CB was at is where all this so called magic spin comes from.

And the only way to get this magic spin stroke is to spend hours and hours at the table doing trail and error on stroking the CB to get that magic type of spin. The "Wonder what happens if I hit the CB this way with this much stroke speed" to see what happens. And then change something and do again.

Practicing is not always about making as many balls as possible, or running x amount racks, but learning how to control the spin of the CB and then learning when to apply that type of spin.

This is how the spin master became such.

BTW........I get alot of great compliments on my stroke from alot pool players and 3 cushion players. I got a stroke but it has taken many, many hours(close to 500-600 hours this year) at the table to truly understand how to stroke and the real depth of what can and can not be done with a stroke.

I just need to learn how to win.....

Oh, how long can you spin the CB?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
 
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3kush, what you say is true, the axis is no longer vertical. It's now spinning about two axes: one vertical and one horizontal. The roll spin about the horizontal axis is added to the english, with the result that it's spinning faster about the tilted axis. Since the ball is slowed down by cloth friction on the way to developing natural roll, the sidespin/speed ratio is also increased.


How can a ball spin on two axis? I see it as a changing axis. Tell me more---
 
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