All New 5" wide bindless Carriage

customcuelathe

customcuelathe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As you all know, I have been working on a new carriage for taig base dovetail. This carriage has by far met an exceeded my expectations, for smoothness redgidity and the effortless moving motion it requires. this carriage will not only provide much higher snugg fit to the dovetail than the standard carriages it will also give you a scratchless carriage. no more scratched dove tail either, with a 100% UHMW interface between carriage and dovetail, it makes it impossible to scratch the dovetail.
this carriage will be standard on all my new high end Cue Lathes ( Cue Building Lathe, Fully Loaded Repair Lathes, plus all Custom Lathes Built on my H-channel)
Here are some pictures of the new carriage along with a closeup picture on the new Gear Rack and pinion Gear.
YouTube Link
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHS9AEp7iC8&feature=youtu.be

Regards
Bassel
Custom Cue Lathes
customcuelathes@yahoo.com. gmail.com, & hotmail.com
248-884-4469
 

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Nice look carriage. You should send me a free one. I would be like R and D. Looks great I was just kidding. About the free one.
 
Looks nice Bassel, how much are they without the topslide? How close to the chuck can you get with the topslide on the right? Can they be ordered with the topslide to the left, and carriage wheel on the right? I'm not bashing at all, i just work mostly from right to left, and think keeping an eye on the topslide dial would be easier on the left.
Thanks, Scott
 
I think you need some kinda shield to keep the crap out of the pinion gears . Just a thought . Jim
 
Looks very nice,
I don't know if I could get used to having the carriage wheel on the right though
 
JoeyInCali said:
It'd be impossible to keep chips and dust out of that rack
There's a big reason metal lathes have them under
Click to expand...

Would not be so distinct in your conclusion Joey - nothing is impossible - it's just a mater of ingenuity and how much you love your machine :wink:
These things could be ordered in any dimension you would like i think - considering some of them for my CNCs linear rails and stuff..
Edit: Also considering this on my large lathes bed - I like my machines clean and freshly oiled without all the dust+oil mixture which I'm picky on cleaning off my machine... Extends the life and make me spend more time on the stuff I like - making dust...

Edit: Looks beefy Bassel. Me like :-)


K
 

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danutz said:
Looks nice Bassel, how much are they without the topslide? How close to the chuck can you get with the topslide on the right? Can they be ordered with the topslide to the left, and carriage wheel on the right? I'm not bashing at all, i just work mostly from right to left, and think keeping an eye on the topslide dial would be easier on the left.
Thanks, Scott
Click to expand...

Thanks scott and everyone who commented. I will try answering everyone's concerns.
Those carriages will be available in both right hand or left hand slide.
The right hand slide only works with the tall headstock models only.
The gear rack will be covered for now, once my H-channel die is modified, then all the newer machines will have the gear rack inverted (teeth pointing downwards) alone with a gear reduction drive in the middle of the carriage. Since my gear rack height is different from taig, I Designed in a 1/2" OD 0.25"ID offset bushing, to give you more offset which allows it to work on all taig based lathes.
Pricing it still not available. Will let you Know as soon as I find out.
Regards
 
Let me first say that I appreciate Bassel's constant search for better designs, it clearly helps the technology aspects of cuemaking to move forward.

But many of the ideas above contribute to longer and longer ways/waybeds in order to maintain the same actual travel of the carriage. For example, Bassel widening the carriage by about 2" reduces the travel on the lathe by that same 2". The way covers and pinion covers expand and then bunch up as the carriage returns, so the carriage can no longer get as close to the headstock (or tailstock) as it was before the covers were installed. I like Joey's point that mounting the pinion upside down reduces chips and dust in the pinion/rack gear. It sounds like that is a future Bassel direction, as well.

So I don't mean to sound like a naysayer, but adding these neat accessories means reconfiguring your lathe to accomodate them and possibly having to rethink/reinvent the procedures that you have spent many hours perfecting, in order to continue building cues in your preferred manner.

Or maybe, I'm completely ignorant and can only see how it would affect me. Feel free to comment - I always learn from other's insights. :)

Bassel, can you demonstrate better that the carriage "wiggle" (for lack of knowledge of the technical term) is reduced with this new carriage? I can loosen the gibs on my carriage and move it smoothly up and down the ways, but the "wiggle" as I twist the carriage on the ways left and right is noticeable and that is not good. Or I can tighten the gibs and the carriage gets a little tighter on the ways, but there is less slop/wiggle.

Anyway, maybe I'm alone (it's happened before :)) maybe not.

Any other thoughts, guys?

Gary
 
GBCues said:
Let me first say that I appreciate Bassel's constant search for better designs, it clearly helps the technology aspects of cuemaking to move forward.

But many of the ideas above contribute to longer and longer ways/waybeds in order to maintain the same actual travel of the carriage. For example, Bassel widening the carriage by about 2" reduces the travel on the lathe by that same 2". The way covers and pinion covers expand and then bunch up as the carriage returns, so the carriage can no longer get as close to the headstock (or tailstock) as it was before the covers were installed. I like Joey's point that mounting the pinion upside down reduces chips and dust in the pinion/rack gear. It sounds like that is a future Bassel direction, as well.

So I don't mean to sound like a naysayer, but adding these neat accessories means reconfiguring your lathe to accomodate them and possibly having to rethink/reinvent the procedures that you have spent many hours perfecting, in order to continue building cues in your preferred manner.

Or maybe, I'm completely ignorant and can only see how it would affect me. Feel free to comment - I always learn from other's insights. :)

Bassel, can you demonstrate better that the carriage "wiggle" (for lack of knowledge of the technical term) is reduced with this new carriage? I can loosen the gibs on my carriage and move it smoothly up and down the ways, but the "wiggle" as I twist the carriage on the ways left and right is noticeable and that is not good. Or I can tighten the gibs and the carriage gets a little tighter on the ways, but there is less slop/wiggle.

Anyway, maybe I'm alone (it's happened before :)) maybe not.

Any other thoughts, guys?

Gary
Click to expand...

Gary
I appreciate your input, but as I mentioned above, the 2 main design advantages on this carriage are, wider and much more snug tight fit to the bed ( no wiggle) for much more repeatable accurate results, second is the no binding and no ware to the anodized dovetail, which will also result in long term accurate repeatable cutting results. As for having to reconfigure your entire setup, I do not agree with that statement, since there is plenty of room for the carriage to slide below the both chuck headstock and tailstock, depending on which style is being used ( left slide or right slide)
I have been working on this design for the last 7 months and I like to think that I thought of all cases and scenarios, I might have missed something, but as of know I still think its as good as it will ever be, unless proven otherwise.
Regards
 
Bassel, I have a suggestion for you.

Now that you have all that extra room on top of the carriage, why not add a DRO or a mount for a Indicator?

Maybe a bar with a flat sticking out from the Cross Slide. Then to mount an Indicator, run a slot across the Carriage, tap a couple holes in the center then make a low profile mounting bracket you can slide in and out. You probably have to mount the Indicator in the back so it doesn't hit the chuck or get in your way.

Not sure if they make a DRO small enough.

They do make a readout that fits in between the Cross Slide and its handle. It works off the Cross Slide screw thread. Again, not sure if they make one small enough.

Another idea, see if you can mount a pair of 4" calipers. Screw the body of the Caliper to the top of the carriage, cut off one of the tangs (the movable one) used to measure inside dimensions and mount the other to the Cross Slide.

You could also make one for the Carriage. Mount Calipers on a movable block and attach the depth measuring rod to the Carriage. Probably wouldn't need much more than a hole in carriage and set screw to hold it.

B
 
bruppert said:
Bassel, I have a suggestion for you.

Now that you have all that extra room on top of the carriage, why not add a DRO or a mount for a Indicator?

Maybe a bar with a flat sticking out from the Cross Slide. Then to mount an Indicator, run a slot across the Carriage, tap a couple holes in the center then make a low profile mounting bracket you can slide in and out. You probably have to mount the Indicator in the back so it doesn't hit the chuck or get in your way.

Not sure if they make a DRO small enough.

They do make a readout that fits in between the Cross Slide and its handle. It works off the Cross Slide screw thread. Again, not sure if they make one small enough.

Another idea, see if you can mount a pair of 4" calipers. Screw the body of the Caliper to the top of the carriage, cut off one of the tangs (the movable one) used to measure inside dimensions and mount the other to the Cross Slide.

You could also make one for the Carriage. Mount Calipers on a movable block and attach the depth measuring rod to the Carriage. Probably wouldn't need much more than a hole in carriage and set screw to hold it.

B
Click to expand...

Bryan
Thanks for all the suggestions
As a mentioned I my last post about the redesigned H-channel, I did add a full track on the H-channel for a dial indicator, so it can be positioned anywhere along the bed, I am working on a special dial for the carriage that will measure how true the bed is. I thought that would be a quality check prior to shipping, but if the interest is there, why not, at the end of the day if it's feasible and the costumer wanted it then I will put it in
Best regards
 
Having never really used a Taig-based lathe much,but knowing something about them,I have a fairly simple question.

With your taller headstock design,is it possible to fit one of these carriages with a compound slide on top of the cross-slide,and still have enough room for an A2Z toolpost? If not,what would it take to make it work?

I like the idea of being able to do short free-hand tapers on stuff like fabricating a butt cap for replacement like you can on a machine lathe,along with the QC. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
Having never really used a Taig-based lathe much,but knowing something about them,I have a fairly simple question.

With your taller headstock design,is it possible to fit one of these carriages with a compound slide on top of the cross-slide,and still have enough room for an A2Z toolpost? If not,what would it take to make it work?

I like the idea of being able to do short free-hand tapers on stuff like fabricating a butt cap for replacement like you can on a machine lathe,along with the QC. Tommy D.
Click to expand...
Tommy
besides the UHMW interface on my carriage and the extra width, its fully compatable with a taig carriage, you can still use 2 slide stacked up along with A2Z QCTP. The base on my carriages sits only 1/16" higher than the base of a taig carriage, standard tool posts will be supplied with each carriage if not using a QCTP. Hope that answers your question.

Regards
Bassel
248-884-4469
 
customcuelathe said:
once my H-channel die is modified, then all the newer machines will have the gear rack inverted (teeth pointing downwards)
Click to expand...

My Hightower needs a makeover, would your carriage/headstock etc. fit my bed?

I assume when you talk about H-channel, you mean the bit underneath that the bed mounts on?

When do you think you will get the new H-channel with gear rack inverted?
 
Agent17 said:
My Hightower needs a makeover, would your carriage/headstock etc. fit my bed?

I assume when you talk about H-channel, you mean the bit underneath that the bed mounts on?

When do you think you will get the new H-channel with gear rack inverted?
Click to expand...

My new carriages are 100% compatible with all Taig based cue lathes.
My new H-channel will be available sometime next month.
As of now, all my components will still work and fit any other taig based cue lathe.
Just for clarification, here is a picture of the standard taig U-channel next to my current H-channel.
Regards
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