Cutting a channel

cueguy

cueguy

Just a repair guy
Silver Member
I am cutting a channel in an old sneaky pete to put in a stacked leather wrap. The problem is that the but is not exactly straight ;-) and it bounces a lot where I am trying to cut in. It is very hard to get a straight cut in the finish without it cracking. I am using a fairly new HSS bit. I have even tried turning the cue by hand trying to get it to not crack instead of under power.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
 
Can you put a couple steady rests on? One in front of the channel and one behind helps a lot
 
I use a utility knife blade to score through the finish at each end of the wrap groove.
I find that it works better for not chipping the finish.
When I cut a cue for a wrap I chuck the cue as close to the end of the wrap groove so I can get a true cut. Cutting about one inch at each end to the depth I want the cut the rest to match.
Hope this helps
 
I like the idea of chucking up real close to the wrap groove.
On the deluxe, you could have both headstock chucks, a steady rest and the tailstock holding everything on center.
 
cueguy said:
I am cutting a channel in an old sneaky pete to put in a stacked leather wrap. The problem is that the but is not exactly straight ;-) and it bounces a lot where I am trying to cut in. It is very hard to get a straight cut in the finish without it cracking. I am using a fairly new HSS bit. I have even tried turning the cue by hand trying to get it to not crack instead of under power.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Try shiming the jaws of your chuck where the cue is held with some paper or card board. This is the same method used when converting house cues to keep the points even, or to even them up.
 
Larry,

I agree with Mr. Webb regarding this cue. If it's already warped, it's not a good candidate.
If you're just looking to practice, any chunk of wood will do but a warped cue will always be a warped cue.
As was mentioned, you can re-cut the taper to straighten but the handle will likely become ridiculously
thin and the points will move.
Broken bar-cues are a dime a dozen and sometimes I don't even pay that much.
Put your time into something that will be worth it.

KJ
 
cuejo said:
I like the idea of chucking up real close to the wrap groove.
On the deluxe, you could have both headstock chucks, a steady rest and the tailstock holding everything on center.
Click to expand...

Except the two chucks do not run perfectly on the same center. I screwed up a couple of A joints that way.

I would either true up the blank by turning it straight, or not do the job at all. There isn't any GOOD way of doing it while warped.
 
Put a steady rest near where wrap will end at the forearm. This will cause the cue to turn true there. Cut your septh there and then cut your depth at the other end. Score it first with a razor blade as many finishes are not that well adhered to the cue and are brittle. I would not shy away from the job just because the cue is warped. That is the beauty of a lathe with a steady rest.
 
Larry,

I would tell the customer of the problem and explain to him that you will need to refinish the cue and charge accordingly. It not your fault the cue is bumping.

The good thing is that because you are installing the stack wrap the concentricity issue will be mute as you will sand the leather even at the new steps.

I have a rule now in my shop that has worked for the last few years. I don't refinish wrapped cue without putting on a new wrap and I won't cut a groove into a finished cue without doing a refinish job. This works for me.

When the step groove is excentric to the cue dia. the only thing I have been able to do is hand sand the high areas of the wrap groove without power to get my .038 step concentric then spin the cue by hand with a small jewelers file to square up the edge. That can take a lot of time and effort before the refinish procedure.

Rick
 
Thanks!

There are some great people on this forum and I enjoy it about every day.
Getting that steady rest a little closer to the cut was what was needed. There were some other good ideas that I will try to remember for next time though ;-)
Like... scoring the finish with a razor blade prior to cutting. Do you do that freehand? Seems like it may be difficult to keep it exactly straight. Maybe I could hold it to the top of a tool post and spin the cue by hand?
Thanks for all the help!
 
As someone stated earlier, try a router instead of a HSS tool bit. The bit produces too much chatter, which in turn leads into wobble which makes you cut a crooked wrap groove. The razor method to cut the finish works really well for not chipping the finish. I have learned from the past that you NEVER agree to put a wrap on a warped cue, it only produces headaches. Good luck with your repair.
 
brittle

cueman said:
Put a steady rest near where wrap will end at the forearm. This will cause the cue to turn true there. Cut your septh there and then cut your depth at the other end. Score it first with a razor blade as many finishes are not that well adhered to the cue and are brittle. I would not shy away from the job just because the cue is warped. That is the beauty of a lathe with a steady rest.
Click to expand...

Chris, do you think some heat would reduce likelihood of cracking?
Bill
 
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