Whats up on core?

[TomHay]

I must have been gone longer than I thought as a player and Cue Builder.

I had made a couple of cored cues years ago but as a stack system.

Example: I would cut a piece of maple down to .625 for a forearm and do a stack and glue with alternate pieces of Tulip wood and Ebony @ 1" heights. I also cored some burl.

If I am reading right everyone seems to core about everything now.

This may sound like a stupid question but you aint getting a Virgin in the art of stupidity.

Why ya core?

 

[qbilder]

Coring, for me, is another tool for me to control weight & balance. It also allows me to use extraordinarily figured woods without the "dud" dullness that high figured woods give. One of the benefits is the increased stability. I would say stability is increased roughly by 90% or more. But my main objective is controlling weight & balance while getting a lively hit from crazy figured woods.

 

[whammo57]

core

It makes a cue with out an A joint. It's stable. It's as close to preventing warping as you can get. All the cues hit the same (solid). It is a little easier to adjust weight by using different woods for the core.

Kim

 

[qbilder]

It makes a cue with out an A joint. It's stable. It's as close to preventing warping as you can get. All the cues hit the same (solid). It is a little easier to adjust weight by using different woods for the core.

Kim

Coring doesn't mean you cannot use an "A" joint. In fact, the vast majority of cored cues have "A" joints. Only a tiny minority utilize a solid length core.

 

[whammo57]

Coring doesn't mean you cannot use an "A" joint. In fact, the vast majority of cored cues have "A" joints. Only a tiny minority utilize a solid length core.

You are right ... of course..... I didn't specify......... I do a full length - 1 piece core.

Kim

 

[patrickcues]

I must have been gone longer than I thought as a player and Cue Builder.

I had made a couple of cored cues years ago but as a stack system.

Example: I would cut a piece of maple down to .625 for a forearm and do a stack and glue with alternate pieces of Tulip wood and Ebony @ 1" heights. I also cored some burl.

If I am reading right everyone seems to core about everything now.

This may sound like a stupid question but you aint getting a Virgin in the art of stupidity.

Why ya core?

I core them for several reasons. Most are already listed above. But one reason I core my cues is so I can help control the type of hit the cue is going to have by what type of core I put in it.

 

[scdiveteam]

Hi,

I want the quiet hit of the maple core on all my cues and like the fact that I don't have to season woods and take cuts over a long period of time. If done correctly to a procedure cue that are full cored will be safe from the "W" word. I use kiln dried woods and after a few weeks in my shop they are good to go.

You still have to take cuts over time and season 3/4" straight dowels so they run perfectly true between centers before the build.

JMO,

Rick G

 

[macguy]

I core them for several reasons. Most are already listed above. But one reason I core my cues is so I can help control the type of hit the cue is going to have by what type of core I put in it.

Do you used different woods to core? For example Purpleheart or laminated.