Question: Better to play with unsealed shaft??

I always hit a few racks with my cues at various stages as I'm building them and there is no change in the way they hit with or without sealing the shaft.
 
Personally I think this topic is one of the most unusual ones that I've seen in recent times. Playing with an open pore shaft is asking for trouble; period. I don't know a single cue maker who doesn't seal their shafts; not one and I talk and deal with the lions share of the market.

Regarding Nelsonite & Resolute: First, I would like to say that there are many more cue makers using one of these products than are not using them. I find the more experienced and well heeled cue makers are the ones using it -vs- the struggling cuemakers and newbies who aren't using it. The reason is obvious. Of course there are those who are well heelded who choose to not use it. And then we have those cue makers who buy our shafts that have already been dipped by us. Between the two, that covers a large share of the market.

It is virtually impossible to determine any difference in playability. To determine any difference, you would have to have two identical pieces of shaftwood to perform a test. Not only would they need to be identical, they would have to be cut identical. We sell tens of thousands of shafts annually and although I've never looked for two identical shafts, I would venture to say that it would be a herculean task to find two. If you don't have two 100% identical shafts, the test is skewed. I've played with shafts dipped in Nelsonite, Resolute and non dipped shafts and quite frankly they feel pretty much the same to me. Actually, if I had to say anything, the non-dipped shafts feel flimsy as compared to the dipped shafts which feel more solid and they play stiffer. That would only make sense. I like a stiff shaft for several reasons so to me dipping a shaft is essential to preserving and protecting the wood. The only thing Nelsonite and Resolute do is fill the air pockets of a shaft with a solid and that prevents moisture from entering the wood. Why wouldn't you want a sealed shaft!

I want to clarify my statement about non-dipped shafts feeling flimsy. I said that for a lack of a better word and in comparison to a dipped shaft. Of course a shaft that isn't dipped isn't necessarily "flimsy" but as compared to something other, it felt a little flimsy. I hope you get my drift.

We have since stopped using Resolute as we finally found a product that is safe to use, does the same job as far as protection and preservation is concerned and is earth freindly. We'll be announcing it via our newsletter in the coming weeks ahead.

And we're almost at the end of our Resolute inventory. Soon we'll be selling final tapered shafts for low, low prices so watch your in boxes in the weeks ahead.
 
acousticsguru said:
One of the finest sealers is skin oil/fat. Think about it, ultimately that's what's going on it anyhow. I believe the first to tell me were the Franklins.....my 21-year-old curly maple Southwest shaft consists entirely of a combination of skin oil and chalk. The trick is not to put anything else on a shaft, and not to clean it aggressively, nor sand it,[/i]
Click to expand...

My experience is the same as David's. When I bought my SW in 1991 I called to ask how they recommended that I provide care for it. Laurie said that if she ever heard that I sanded one of their shafts that she would take it away from me. :o After about a dozen years, one time when I sent the shafts back for their annual retipping (from wear), she asked what finish I was putting on my shafts. I told her it was hand oil from use. Of course she was pleased that I had been caring for the cue that way. I had a similar experience with my 1985 Joss. It took it to SBE in 2011 to show Dan how straight his cue remained after 26 years. He ran his fingers down the shaft and asked, "you haven't sanded this shaft, have you?" I said no. He asked again, "that's your hand oil, isn't it?" And I said yes. "Thank you."

Greg
 
i'm just a rookie

only been doing this 10 years or so, but i tried both Nelsonite & Resolute, found both nasty and i believe they make the wood, for lack of better words ' softer ' cant really explain, but it seems that way to me. i really think acrolid is the best but a pain in the ass to use. i do not use any new shafts, and as most of my shaft wood is 50 plus years old, all i use is hightowers shaft sealer. i put it on after 800 then i hit it lightly with 1500, then leather burnish while spinning at top speed of lathe.
 
Hi,

I wonder what percentage of CMs use Nelsonite or Resolute?

Maybe a poll would be interesting.

Rick
 
Yes, both can be "nasty"; no argument there. If you're set up to do volume as we are, it's a lot easier. Trying to dip 10 or 50 shafts, the process is cumbersome so I can understand your disenchantment. And yes, when either chemical is not mixed or stirred prior to use or if the product is old, the liquid will not dry properly and produce a "softer" shaft. This is what we have found. So it's essential to use fresh chemical that is stirred. The chemical can jel up at the bottom and when this happens it's time to not use it.

When we dip shafts, they are done in groups of about 1,000 at a time so we are always using fresh chemical and there are no drying issues. Cue makers who we know that are using Nelsonite or Resolute are dipping many, many shafts at once and then discarding the remainder. Others are using portioned out amounts and placing the remaining chemical in other containers to preserve it. You cannot store 2.5 gallons in a 5 gallon container as the air will break it down. This will also produce that "softer" feel from not drying properly due to air breaking down the chemical.
 
scdiveteam said:
Hi,

I wonder what percentage of CMs use Nelsonite or Resolute?

Maybe a poll would be interesting.

Rick
Click to expand...


That would be a great idea but it wouldn't be representative of the industry because not every cue maker will participate. The results will only be a small percentage of cuemakers of AZ users.
 
Thanks for all the feedbacks, i guess it's pretty unanimous that sealant or doesn't affect the way the shaft play at all. Thanks again to all for your contributions.
 
Jive said:
Is it true that a shaft plays livelier when any form of sealant or wax isn't on the shaft? What is the use of sealant and wax besides keeping the shaft clean and reduced bluing?

I know this question sounds silly bit there's an ongoing debate in a Chinese forum and I started a thread there. There's a habit here in this part of the world where they "open" the shafts by sanding or removing the top layer of the shaft on a lathe claiming the cue plays much livelier.

I personally don't believe it's true especially if it's not paint finishing on the full shaft but just wax or sealant. However I would like expert opinions especially from cuemakers on this.

Thanks in advance for all valuable inputs!
Click to expand...

Jive, good Q if you take off the top coat using fine sandpaper the shaft would get smaller and get livelier, the player may not know it but can turn down shaft from 13 mm to 12.5 in 6 months. I have seen this many times, if people do it in a drill it can happen fast.. If you don't sand much use 2000 grit and use clear carnauba wax, your shaft may last as much as 30 years longer, that would pay off better. If you want to take a little off the shaft, get it where you want than start using the carnauba. 30 years is long time most snooker players play with one cue only, maybe even their whole career unless one gets lost are broken. Snooker on a 12 foot is tough game, they want one cue because they know the cue from a young age, it would be hard for a snooker player to play well with 10 or 20 shafts or 5 or 10 cues. Jeff
 
jeff olney said:
Jive, good Q if you take off the top coat using fine sandpaper the shaft would get smaller and get livelier, the player may not know it but can turn down shaft from 13 mm to 12.5 in 6 months. I have seen this many times, if people do it in a drill it can happen fast.. If you don't sand much use 2000 grit and use clear carnauba wax, your shaft may last as much as 30 years longer, that would pay off better. If you want to take a little off the shaft, get it where you want than start using the carnauba. 30 years is long time most snooker players play with one cue only, maybe even their whole career unless one gets lost are broken. Snooker on a 12 foot is tough game, they want one cue because they know the cue from a young age, it would be hard for a snooker player to play well with 10 or 20 shafts or 5 or 10 cues. Jeff
Click to expand...

Thanks for your input Jeff.
 
I have a Mcdremott shaft ive been using for the last week or so. Nice curly maple with a med ultra skin layered tip on it. It was sealed a few months ago at a tourney but a repair man. It looks fantastic. However, it plays like crap. The tip is the best part, i love the tip. But the shaft doesnt play well. No pop. I have a shaft that was made from a house cue. Using only minwax to seal the entire shaft, meaning no clear coat. Now that shaft has that pop. Sealed or unsealed, doesnt matter. Its all in the wood.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top