5/16 14 pin

Yes, changing balance point is definitely enough.

My theory is that the huge, heavy brass pin impedes transfer of vibration through the cue...and here is why: When you add a proportionally large mass in a vibrating system, you create an artificial node--basically that part does not want to move, forcing the rest of the system to move around that node.

The alignment barrel is a good feature, I'll presume that you've read enough of my rants to know of my feelings about the rest of the radial pin.

dld

Come on Double - you need to explain it again.

Standard "v" threads are the BEST for holding things together - tightly.

Ball screw threads("radial") are used to move things - smoothly.

Anyonwe think the headbolts for the engine in a $5Million Race car
are ball screws?

Dale(who would be happy with a $1M race car)
 
Sorry, I was being my usual smart-aleck self while trying to make a point. Sometimes the two don't mix. Yes, you are absolutely correct on the mental part.

As far as why some people don't like the 5/16-14 pin, I have no idea.

I'll tell you why I prefer it. Simple tradition.

Balabushka, Rambow, Brunswick Hoppe Pro, JOSS, Josswest, Richard Black, Paul Mottey, Barry, Gus, Tasc, and numerous other very prominent names primarily used that joint and in some cases still do. It just "seems right" to me. That's all. Nothing more.

But that's just me.

.
 
And that's why you should probably stfu and gtfo of this thread so the rest of us can learn something.

-roger

Wow! That's not a very Buddha-like response. The OP's original question was "why do some people bash the 5/16-14 pin?" I was simply explaining my belief that the joint pin (and almost everything else in the cue) doesn't has squat to do with pocketing a ball. As proof, I offer up some personal history of using every type of joint pin with equal results.

Perhaps you wanted me to say something like "the 5/16-14 pin is the best pin in the world because of blah, blah, blah." Or, "the 5/16-14 pin is the worst pin because I hate the way it feels." Would those answers have been more educational?

Why don't you add some intelligent discussion to this topic, instead of just tossing out thinly-veiled vulgarities. Or perhaps you'd feel more comfortable over in Non Pool Related? Those people yell at each other all the time and get nowhere.

So, oh wise one, why do you like/dislike the 5/16-14 joint pin? What info could you add to make someone change their mind into believing your thoughts on the subject?
 
Perhaps you wanted me to say something like "the 5/16-14 pin is the best pin in the world because of blah, blah, blah." Or, "the 5/16-14 pin is the worst pin because I hate the way it feels." Would those answers have been more educational?

No. They would be equally irrelevant as your previous points.

Why don't you add some intelligent discussion to this topic, instead of just tossing out thinly-veiled vulgarities.

The OP posted the question in a forum dedicated to cuemakers and cue-making. The implied context is clear. I have nothing technical to add to this discussion, and I don't participate when I have nothing useful to add. This is obviously not your philosophy.

The bottom line is this: No one gives a single flying kite if you disregard the pin type/config in your own cues, or find it irrelevant to shot making. There are more to cues than potting balls. I'd hate for you to chime in on any and all cue topics to add your worthless 2 cents along the same vein.

Have a nice day.

-roger (ohmmmm.)
 
I was simply explaining my belief that the joint pin (and almost everything else in the cue) doesn't has squat to do with pocketing a ball. As proof, I offer up some personal history of using every type of joint pin with equal results.


The conversation seems to have degraded, but to grab one point of it and discredit it this would be it. I could ask how proficient you are at pool but even that becomes irrelevant. Try playing with a rubber cue and a marshmallow tip and let me know how that goes.

Certainly the cue, its construction and materials, has something to do with the ability to pocket balls....within limits.

How about we see some contributions rather than diatribes?


Just a thought.


Relative to the tip, ferrule, and shaft (in that order) the pin selection has less to do with the ability of the cue to contribute to one's ability to pocket balls. Clearly. I would say that is stating the obvious.

So what about people's preferences for and against? That seems to be what the thread is about. One cannot discredit people's preferences as jschelin99 seems to want to do. People's preferences can be based on whatever they like.

In particular I want to hear what the cuemakers think. It may have nothing to do with how the cue plays. It might have to do with the cost of the parts or their relative difficulty in the installation. It might have to do with nostalgia. It could have to do with what tools the cue maker has on hand or with his experience. How about we really look at it without just dismissing people's feelings on the matter out of hand?

I'll tell you as a player I like the piloted stainless 14 pin for reasons I already stated. I like the 3/8 10 pin second best for similar reasons. I see the various permutations of the radial pin as redundant, superfluous, and unnecessary.

If one must persist in telling the world that the cue has nothing to do with potting balls then please construct a rubber cue with a marshmallow tip and prove it by winning a major tournament with such a cue or at least posting a video of a run over 100.





.
 
I don't know exactly where I went wrong. I wasn't meaning to go off on a rant. Let me start completely over a little more succinctly and with far less smart-assery:

I think the 5/16-14 pin is just fine. I played with a Schon for years and liked the hit of the cue just fine.

I've also played with 3/8-10 pins in McDermotts, 5/16-18 pins I Meuccis, and currently play with a Radial pin in my own brand of cue.

Yes, each cue has a different feel, but given enough time, a player can get used to just about anything.

So, to answer the OP's original question: I don't know why some people bash the 5/16-14 pin.
 
Maybe it is the "new and better" kind of thing. Some people just want the latest and greatest whether it is "real" or not.... :confused::rolleyes:




.
 
I agree with Chris. Whether the fact that a lot cuemakers(including me) use a stainless collar when using 5/16 14 joint is actually what emphasizes the difference, I'm not sure but I believe so.

Mario
Piloted joint with stainless collar will change it even more. I build them flat faced and there is still a noticable difference.
 
Last edited:
No. They would be equally irrelevant as your previous points.



The OP posted the question in a forum dedicated to cuemakers and cue-making. The implied context is clear. I have nothing technical to add to this discussion, and I don't participate when I have nothing useful to add. This is obviously not your philosophy.

The bottom line is this: No one gives a single flying kite if you disregard the pin type/config in your own cues, or find it irrelevant to shot making. There are more to cues than potting balls. I'd hate for you to chime in on any and all cue topics to add your worthless 2 cents along the same vein.

Have a nice day.

-roger (ohmmmm.)

For a non-cuemaker, you have alot to say in a thread that, by your own statement is for cuemakers only to comment in. You also seem to be a bit rude about it also.
I am a cue maker/builder so I can comment, right?
There are a lot of people that don't like to turn a shaft approx. 20 times to put their cue together. I am one of them. I shoot with a 3/8-10 flat minor on my breaker and shooter, but have 2 cues I use on the weekend at the local watering hole that have 5/16-18 pins and inserts. I can shoot great or bad just as easily with any of them. Once a cue is screwed together, the whole tension of holding both pieces together is really on about 3/4s of a thread's edge...regardless of what it is made of. The bigger factor, is what materials are touching each other so tightly, it's almost a compression joint, that the joint pin brought together. To me, that affects hit and playablity much more than what pin/screw threaded insert was used....JMHO,
Dave
 
Come on Double - you need to explain it again.

Standard "v" threads are the BEST for holding things together - tightly.

Ball screw threads("radial") are used to move things - smoothly.

Anyonwe think the headbolts for the engine in a $5Million Race car
are ball screws?

Dale(who would be happy with a $1M race car)

There goes the 14 and 18 tpi variety then. They are considered
coarse threads.
5/16 UNF would be better then.
 
Mosconi did not miss just got tired and quit.

Mosconi said he did not miss just got tired and quit.
When Mosconi missed that 527th ball, he said " Damn, I would have made that on a 3/8 11 titanium jointed cue."
Fact.
 
Last edited:
I've been in this business long enough to learn a few things;

-Yes, a good player can get used to any cue.

-A player shouldn't have to get use to any cue when he/she can buy one that fits his/her playing style.

-Every minute detail may not be all that noticeable but the sum of the parts do.

-If you feel that some of these details do not matter, do not build cues.
 
Last edited:
I've been in this business long enough to learn a few things;

-Yes, a good player can get used to any cue.

-A player shouldn't have to get use to any cue when he/she can buy one that fits his/her playing style.

-Every minute detail may not be all that noticeable but the sum of the whole does.

-If you feel that some of these details do not matter, do not build cues.

Ditto!

Also I pray you have a speedy and full recovery.
 
For a non-cuemaker, you have alot to say in a thread that, by your own statement is for cuemakers only to comment in.

That's not what I wrote, go read my post again if you're confused.

You also seem to be a bit rude about it also.

I think it's rude for someone to come on here and be dismissive of a cue building component, such as joint configuration, in a forum called "Ask the Cuemaker."

I am a cue maker/builder so I can comment, right?

If you say so. Hard to keep track of all the AZB cuemakers.

There are a lot of people that don't like to turn a shaft approx. 20 times to put their cue together. I am one of them. I shoot with a 3/8-10 flat minor on my breaker and shooter, but have 2 cues I use on the weekend at the local watering hole that have 5/16-18 pins and inserts. I can shoot great or bad just as easily with any of them. Once a cue is screwed together, the whole tension of holding both pieces together is really on about 3/4s of a thread's edge...regardless of what it is made of. The bigger factor, is what materials are touching each other so tightly, it's almost a compression joint, that the joint pin brought together. To me, that affects hit and playablity much more than what pin/screw threaded insert was used....JMHO,
Dave

Thank you for your input.

-roger
 
I think it's rude for someone to come on here and be dismissive of a cue building component, such as joint configuration, in a forum called "Ask the Cuemaker."

I wasn't trying to be dismissive about any cue component. Maybe I was having a bad day. Obviously my words didn't properly convey my meaning to some of you guys. Perhaps starting off my post with "let's stop b***s***ing ourselves" wasn't the best beginning. Apparently I was feeling a little spicy that day. So, for that, I humbly apologize.

Here's all I was trying to say: there's really no sense in arguing over tips, ferrules, shafts, joints, etc. because everybody is different. What you like I may not, and vice versa. When a customer asks me what's the best tip, ferrule, shaft, joint, etc., I tell them the same thing: the best is what works for you.
 
When Mosconi missed that 527th ball, he said " Damn, I would have made that on a 3/8 11 titanium jointed cue."
Fact.

I heard he said..."I should have spent the $230 for that 314, Ld, hollow, foam filled, laminated, skinny ass shaft."

LOL

Kim
 
Back
Top