coring or not coring olivewood?

Dildobagnz

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm wanting to have a merry widow style cue made out of olivewood. I've heard different people say it should an shouldn't be cored. I'm looking for the most solid hitting solution. Any input would be appreciated
 
Coring

You don't have to core everything but you must core Olivewood.

Mario
 
I just built a beautiful Olive wood with full core . , and checked when ready for delivery , and it had moved , even cored , now I have a new shooter . I have some new Olive wood , Prettiest grain I ever seen in Olivewood . Scared to do anything with it . Jim
 
Olive wood

I just built a beautiful Olive wood with full core . , and checked when ready for delivery , and it had moved , even cored , now I have a new shooter . I have some new Olive wood , Prettiest grain I ever seen in Olivewood . Scared to do anything with it . Jim

Jim: Did you full length core and what wood was the core made from?
 
I just built a beautiful Olive wood with full core . , and checked when ready for delivery , and it had moved , even cored , now I have a new shooter . I have some new Olive wood , Prettiest grain I ever seen in Olivewood . Scared to do anything with it . Jim

I'm betting your olive was from a branch .
And it did not come from Africa.
 
I hate to say this but Olivewood has no business being in a cue BUT we've all used it and olivewood is beautiful. It most certainly has to be cored. Additionally, African Olivewood is the only Olivewood that should be used.
 
I have only made one cue from olive wood and it will be the last. I agree with Joe, it is pretty wood but no good for cues.
 
This is the cue I was referring to . Rolling butt on table you can not see a problem , with shaft the tip comes off table about 1/8" , in lathe the cue shows a obvius problem . It has become my shooter , I needed one anyway . This is the 1st I've had with a full length 1 pc. core of laminated maple . I do have a new moisture meter .

I know my spelling sucks .

IMG_4847_zpsacf93ba7.jpg



IMG_4849_zps9dda5d1f.jpg
 
This is the cue I was referring to . Rolling butt on table you can not see a problem , with shaft the tip comes off table about 1/8" , in lathe the cue shows a obvius problem . It has become my shooter , I needed one anyway . This is the 1st I've had with a full length 1 pc. core of laminated maple . I do have a new moisture meter .

I know my spelling sucks .

That looks like it could be European olivewood to me. African alivewood tends to show more fine graining. Do you know for sure what variety that was supposed to be?
 
Olivewood

African olivewood is the way to go. Couple it with a PH core and your problems should disappear. Here is a pic of one I recently completed although the pic shows it in progress.. The PH handle and the core, fore and aft, are all one piece.
 

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African olivewood is the way to go. Couple it with a PH core and your problems should disappear. Here is a pic of one I recently completed although the pic shows it in progress.. The PH handle and the core, fore and aft, are all one piece.
Tap tap tap
Jim, that looks like branch piece from Greece, Portugal or Israel. They're good for bowl and knife handles. They are not kiln dried.
Even cored, they will twist. They're like inbred pitbulls. Don't trust them.
Flat lam core dun't solve everything.

The good African Olivewoods do not twist and turn when cored imo.
 
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I just called Bell and they said Africa . So I might be O.K. on this . If the damn thing will dry out , registering 18 % . Jim
 
You can use Mediterranean olive wood but you have to wait long enough for the bored out wood to dry before you glue in the biggest core that will fit. Even then there may be small short surface cracks that you will need to fill with a pigmented epoxy filler. The secret is time and patience and 10 years from arrival of the wood to the finish of the cue is is probably about right. The problem is that the wood cell structure is a closed cell and moisture can't be forced out quickly, even by laboratory strength vacuums.
 
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