How long does it take most cue makers to put a finish on a cue?

[justinb386]

I am just curious how long it takes most cue makers to put a finish on a cue?

Is it a very hard time consuming job?

How long would the very best quality finish job take for a cue maker to do?

Does it takes hours, or days for the job to be completed (depending on how good of a finish you are wanting)?

Maybe this question should be in the ask a cue maker section, but I thought I would get a faster reply on the main forum.

Thanks.

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

That greatly depends Buddy.
It depends on which technique the maker uses to finish his cue.

I am not the best finisher by all means. I have been using a water based poly which many use.

The cues have to have an under coat. There are a few different products that can be used. For example, epoxy for one. This has to be applied, the cue rotating for several
Hours for it to even out and then sanded even. That's just one and can be very time consuming. The epoxy has to cure for some time before you put a finish coats, or coats on it.

Many makers that are set up for it, spray auto clear. They might use several applications,
Then sanding between coats.

Others may use a UV finish, which I read that it is pretty quick.

Using water base poly, a maker may apply anywhere from a few to 10 to 20 coats before they are happy with the end results. Keep in mind that sanding is necessary between coats.

Lost of techniques but absolutely none of them involve spraying and the cue going out the dorr in a day or so.

Hope this helps a bit, as I said, I am far from being 100% proficient at it yet.

Also keep in mind that if you were to ask just about any maker, which is the hardest job to learn and which is the least pleasant job they do in building a cue, just about every one will say, finishing.

Edit, because I love to edit my posts. Feel free to ask this question in the Ask the Cue Maker forum.

I just brushed, no pun intended, the surface and you will get much more detailed responses that I gave you.

 

[Jaden]

Depends greatly...

Anywhere from 15 minutes with some UV coats to multiple weeks with auto clear coats or combinations of clear coats epoxy resins or cyano finishes...

A pure cyano finish can be done in a day with the spray quickdry chemicals.

I recommend an epoxy resin base coat then multiple coats of cyano when using metal rings. The cyano is hard enough to help prevent the rings from cracking the finish when they expand and contract.

Jaden

 

[CMD]

Even though you stated the obvious, I'd still post in the cue maker section.

 

[justinb386]

Okay, so for a really nice custom cue (with very expensive ring work on it), a good cue maker could take up to a couple weeks to put a good finish on the cue (using the best finish method that would last the longest). I am guessing that the top name cue makers (that are known throughout the nation) use the best method for putting a finish on cues (the cue makers that charge up in to the thousands for their custom cues). The top name cue makers all use the best finishing method (that is the most time consuming), right? I am guessing that these high quality finishes do not ding very easily if you were to bump the cue against the edge of a pool table. Thanks a lot for your replies.

 

[BHQ]

Okay, so for a really nice custom cue (with very expensive ring work on it), a good cue maker could take up to a couple weeks to put a good finish on the cue (using the best finish method that would last the longest). I am guessing that the top name cue makers (that are known throughout the nation) use the best method for putting a finish on cues (the cue makers that charge up in to the thousands for their custom cues). The top name cue makers all use the best finishing method (that is the most time consuming), right? I am guessing that these high quality finishes do not ding very easily if you were to bump the cue against the edge of a pool table. Thanks a lot for your replies.

i dont think there is any finish that is UN-DINGABLE
some dent, some chip, but those sharp edges can play hell on any cue

so can dropping one, just sanded & buffed out, on the lathe
did this last week, sure did ruin an otherwise good day

 

[KJ Cues]

I recommend an epoxy resin base coat then multiple coats of cyano when using metal rings. The cyano is hard enough to help prevent the rings from cracking the finish when they expand and contract.

Jaden

You almost had it.
Metal rings in a cue DO NOT expand and contract.
You were on the right track with the epoxy though.
As a substrate, it prevents the auto-clear from 'pinching down' around the rings.
Even UV will pinch-down given the right conditions.

Not looking for conflict, just correct info.

KJ