Another tip...

John Brumback

John Brumback

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If you want a herky jerk ugly stroke.....just use a short bridge,that'll do it for ya. I keep reading comments that go something like this......"oh hey,you better start out using a short bridge,cause your not good enough yet to use a long one". That's the biggest load of crap that I have read on here in a long time. I would start a 2 year old out with a long bridge if I wanted him or her to get good. I'm thinking this might be one of the biggest and worst myths that I have ever read. The length of your bridge has nothing to do with and will not fix your crooked stroke. A crooked stroke is caused by your back hand and a short bridge will not fix that. John B.

PS: where do people come up with some of this stuff???
 
I tend to use a shorter bridge on long draw shots...I think it gives me that extra inch or two of follow through. Is this not correct? And can you define "short" and "long". Thank you.
 
I personally believe that someone just starting out should keep his bridge close to the pivot point (where the squirt is equalized during shots with English)
With big ferrule cues with high deflection, this is somewhere between 5 and 7 inches. The idea is that any off center hit will still pocket the ball, with the tradeoff being less cue ball control on bad strokes.

The problem with LD shafts, and the reason so many people can't shoot with them, is that if you do not have a great stroke and good ability to hit the cue ball where you want it, you are going to miss much more often.

You won't detect any issues while playing like this, but that is what practice and drills are for.

As far as shorter bridge for more follow through, Shorter bridges or longer bridges aren't going to give you more or less follow through, because your back hand should be perpendicular to the floor at point of contact, making the follow through the same no matter what.

ETA: To find your cue pivot point, line up a straight in shoot with two diamond between the pocket and object ball, and two diamond between the object and cue balls. Bridge normally, and pivot for extreme right English at your bridge hand. if you hit the ball in, and the cue ball dies at impact, just spinning, that is the pivot point. If you hit the right side of the pocket, bring your bridge hand back further and try again. If you hit the left side of the pocket, bring your bridge hand closer to the cue ball. (I think those are the right adjustments, if it makes it worse, reverse them)
 
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John Brumback said:
If you want a herky jerk ugly stroke.....just use a short bridge,that'll do it for ya. I keep reading comments that go something like this......"oh hey,you better start out using a short bridge,cause your not good enough yet to use a long one". That's the biggest load of crap that I have read on here in a long time. I would start a 2 year old out with a long bridge if I wanted him or her to get good. I'm thinking this might be one of the biggest and worst myths that I have ever read. The length of your bridge has nothing to do with and will not fix your crooked stroke. A crooked stroke is caused by your back hand and a short bridge will not fix that. John B.

PS: where do people come up with some of this stuff???
Click to expand...


With all due respect, I have to disagree. At least on the beginner level, a long bridge can result in lots of miscues. I don't make this stuff up, I speak from experience. Many beginner students of mine have tried to try to copy my long bridge, and it can get ugly.
I never saw one beginner that took naturally to a long bridge.

Now if they stuck with that for long enough, it would probably be worth it in the long run. So I do agree with what you say, just that I don't think its practical. Beginners want to pocket balls right away, not dedicate time to a long bridge.
 
This is an excellent post
[QTUOTE=Careyp74;4794773]I personally believe that someone just startingE out should keep his bridge close to the pivot point (where the squirt is equalized during shots with English)
With big ferrule cues with high deflection, this is somewhere between 5 and 7 inches. The idea is that any off center hit will still pocket the ball, with the tradeoff being less cue ball control on bad strokes.

The problem with LD shafts, and the reason so many people can't shoot with them, is that if you do not have a great stroke and good ability to hit the cue ball where you want it, you are going to miss much more often.

You won't detect any issues while playing like this, but that is what practice and drills are for.

As far as shorter bridge for more follow through, Shorter bridges or longer bridges aren't going to give you more or less follow through, because your back hand should be perpendicular to the floor at point of contact, making the follow through the same no matter what.[/QUOTE]
 
ghost ball said:
I tend to use a shorter bridge on long draw shots...I think it gives me that extra inch or two of follow through. Is this not correct? And can you define "short" and "long". Thank you.
Click to expand...

Most pros use a longer bridge for big draw shots. I'll post back later on what I think is long or short,thanks,John B.
 
Bambu said:
With all due respect, I have to disagree. At least on the beginner level, a long bridge can result in lots of miscues. I don't make this stuff up, I speak from experience. Many beginner students of mine have tried to try to copy my long bridge, and it can get ugly.
I never saw one beginner that took naturally to a long bridge.

Now if they stuck with that for long enough, it would probably be worth it in the long run. So I do agree with what you say, just that I don't think its practical. Beginners want to pocket balls right away, not dedicate time to a long bridge.
Click to expand...

This has been my experience also. I've only taught complete novices who want to play the game well enough to have a friendly competition with their friends -- they're not trying to win the US Open 9-ball tournament. Nor are they willing/able to devote more than 3-4 hours of practice a week. KISS.
 
bdorman said:
This has been my experience also. I've only taught complete novices who want to play the game well enough to have a friendly competition with their friends -- they're not trying to win the US Open 9-ball tournament. Nor are they willing/able to devote more than 3-4 hours of practice a week. KISS.
Click to expand...

In the beginning of learning a skill, KISS rules. The problem is this "all or nothing" extremism our society is becoming more and more entrenched in. "Give me everything -- teach me everything -- or nothing at all." "Show me how to do english/spin -- or I've got no use for you."

The problem with teaching spin/english right out of the chute is that you'll end up with a player that knows nothing except that "left english on the cue ball helps cut the object ball right, and right english on the cue ball helps cut the object ball left." They start to depend on it for their cut shots rather than knowing the proper cut angle -- which is not a good thing. Better to learn how a center-axis hit works, first; then later, after proficiency with this has been demonstrated, go into spin/english.

IMHO,
-Sean
 
sfleinen said:
In the beginning of learning a skill, KISS rules. The problem is this "all or nothing" extremism our society is becoming more and more entrenched in. "Give me everything -- teach me everything -- or nothing at all." "Show me how to do english/spin -- or I've got no use for you."

The problem with teaching spin/english right out of the chute is that you'll end up with a player that knows nothing except that "left english on the cue ball helps cut the object ball right, and right english on the cue ball helps cut the object ball left." They start to depend on it for their cut shots rather than knowing the proper cut angle -- which is not a good thing. Better to learn how a center-axis hit works, first; then later, after proficiency with this has been demonstrated, go into spin/english.

IMHO,
-Sean
Click to expand...

Vertical axis is your friend.
 
The geometry is rather simple. The longer the bridge, the greater an error in the backswing translates to an error at the tip. This is easily proven or demonstrated if not intuitive.

I may be wrong but what I think John means is a longer bridge is more conducive to a smooth, fluid stroke while a shorter bridge may encourage a shorter stab type stroke.

Hard to argue with John on the stroke, he has one of the straightest, smoothest and most rhythmic strokes I've ever seen. I think this is the key to why he is the greatest bank pool player ever. The speed consistency of his "standard" preferred bank shot stroke is phenomenal. It's a shame professional pool doesn't offer more significant financial rewards, more people would get to see just how great a player John Brumback really is.
 
Cut n Hold

John Brumback said:
If you want a herky jerk ugly stroke.....just use a short bridge,that'll do it for ya. I keep reading comments that go something like this......"oh hey,you better start out using a short bridge,cause your not good enough yet to use a long one". That's the biggest load of crap that I have read on here in a long time. I would start a 2 year old out with a long bridge if I wanted him or her to get good. I'm thinking this might be one of the biggest and worst myths that I have ever read. The length of your bridge has nothing to do with and will not fix your crooked stroke. A crooked stroke is caused by your back hand and a short bridge will not fix that. John B.

PS: where do people come up with some of this stuff???
Click to expand...

John,
I have a banks question and I likely know the answer but I dont get to play banks often and so I practice them but I havent practiced cut and hold banks a whole lot.

When shooting cut and hold banks do you try to cut the ball a uniform amount of cut all of the time and then vary the stroke to what you are doing? or do you cut the ball different cuts? I do have your dvd.
 
Yep,
I'm right and anybody that doesn't agree
with me is automatically and absolutely
wrong. The "progressive" thinking of today.

Just my open minded opinion about bridge
length. I just can't get Alan Hopkins style
out of my head.

Joe
 
Bambu said:
With all due respect, I have to disagree. At least on the beginner level, a long bridge can result in lots of miscues. I don't make this stuff up, I speak from experience. Many beginner students of mine have tried to try to copy my long bridge, and it can get ugly.
I never saw one beginner that took naturally to a long bridge.

Now if they stuck with that for long enough, it would probably be worth it in the long run. So I do agree with what you say, just that I don't think its practical. Beginners want to pocket balls right away, not dedicate time to a long bridge.
Click to expand...

Ok,I'll have to go with that line of thinking,very good,Sir. Guess after I think about it..I haven't really worked much with beginners. Thanks,John B.
 
336Robin said:
John,
I have a banks question and I likely know the answer but I dont get to play banks often and so I practice them but I havent practiced cut and hold banks a whole lot.

When shooting cut and hold banks do you try to cut the ball a uniform amount of cut all of the time and then vary the stroke to what you are doing? or do you cut the ball different cuts? I do have your dvd.
Click to expand...

I'll give it a shot...If I can,I'm going to cut it as much as I can because that's going to let me have the biggest pocket as I can get. If that's not the answer you are looking for,we'll try again. Thanks,John B.
 
Blackjack said:
Vertical axis is your friend.
Click to expand...

Can't help but wonder how many on here just had an aneurysm after reading your brief statement.

You were a pro, so everything you say must be gospel. Yet, you made the sacrilegious statement of saying that center ball is your friend.

What to do? What to do?:D
 
John Brumback said:
If you want a herky jerk ugly stroke.....just use a short bridge,that'll do it for ya.
PS: where do people come up with some of this stuff???
Click to expand...

Your message is a good one but the opening sentence above isn't really true.

Having a short bridge will not cause an ugly stroke in and of itself. I have watched pro's shorten up their bridge for situational shots and their stroke still looks pretty darned good. Shooting at a pocket twice the width of the balls gives a huge margin or error for a successful pot. A flawed stroke can have it's negative effect reduced by shortening the bridge resulting in better success for mediocre players. There is solid geometrical reasons for this. So for players unwilling or unable to commit the time and effort to rebuild a flawed stroke, a shorter bridge length can indeed increase their success if that's all they are willing to do.

I believe that's where they "come up with this stuff"

JC
 
I always got taught to bridge on a snooker table....get down as if you were going to use the brown on its spot as the cue ball and your bridge should be on or close to the edge of the D in baulk. As it stands today my bridge has gotten longer and longer and now bridge around and inch and a half behind the D in baulk...not sure how that relates to inches, many wont know how far back the edge of the D is in snooker...that goes for me too!

From what I've seen of complete beginners they tend to bridge really short, some with fingers almost touching the cue ball. That's too close imo. But on the other hand if I had a complete beginner bridge at my length it wouldn't be any good either. Somewhere in the middle or a touch on the shorter side should be roughly where people start out imo.
 
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