No matter what you've already convinced yourself that no matter what I say or do, I'm wrong. How am I to argue with a person who refuses to acknowledge the reason why tips pop off in the first place? A sharp cutter does not open the pores of leather like sanding does. Yes the pores are exposed, but not open. I never said facing was bad, just unneeded. It's not required to get a flat back on the tip like you say. It's your way to compensate for your inability to sand reliably. Nothing 'wrong', but it's not 'right' either.
I told the OP to not face his phenolic tips in the lathe. Your skim reading specialty here. There should be zero reason to face the back side of a phenolic tip. All it'll do is create a smoother surface that works against the point of counteracting shear forces.
You want to believe Royce about how super glue works. Since cyanoacrylates are designed to bond smooth glass surfaces together, why even bother preparing the backside of a tip. The backside of a Le Pro, using your stated opinion that Royce is correct about the cyanoacrylate, should be able to bond properly to the ferrule without scuffing needed. But we know that's not possible. You can mention the voids as being the cause, but I won't believe you. I've seen too many tips fly off because of a miscue. A miscue which accentuates and amplifies the shear force. The thing you refuses to acknowledge. You want to better yourself as an installer/maker, don't disregard known information as pixie dust and theory. When it's a proven fact. No I won't spoon feed you this information, I had to find it myself.
I'm not shitting over your method of installing a tip, but you sure as shit are trying on my method.
First off, you seem to thrive on arguing with people over simple things and it looks like this is another one of those. Secondly, Do you even read what you write? You actually ask, " how am I to argue"...and guess what....your not... his way is his way, yours is yours...no argument. You dumped on his method, said ' It's not required to get a flat back on the tip like you say. It's your way to compensate for your inability to sand reliably. Nothing 'wrong', but it's not 'right' either.' which I think is inappropriate, and incorrect, IMO.
You've thrown around the term shear forces many times and basically, I don't think YOU even know what your saying. Here is what shear force is:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_force
Unless you use the cue to swat at the cueball using the side of the tip instead of straight on, the theory of shear forces don't apply. Maybe you saw a lot of tips fly off because you installed them wrong?? don't know, don't care. CA is a great adhesive to use if done properly. I have faced phenolic tips using my lathe also, as most tips, of all types, are NOT absolutely flat on the back side when you get them. Now I make my own, and yes, I face them too, as flat as one can get them the better, and smooth also. If you have to cut grooves and other things,,,,,then you may need to look at your methods and correct as needed. If a tip rocks back and forth, most glues and epoxies will not compensate very long for that, and will pop off regardless of what glue you use, which BTW, the best one I have tested hasn't even been mentioned....GOOP! The regular GOOP sold in hardware stores, let to set over night. Try it... You will probably break the shaft before popping the tip off. I used an Oak block 4"x4" x 10" long to hit into like I was breaking using house cues and the shaft finally broke and the tip stayed on. Bar cues take a beating and those tips stayed on long enough for the actual cue to break first. I don't use it unless I'm doing house cues for a bar, as most cues will never see the abuse that those do.
DAve
