Pool Table Question (which is worth more money?)
- Thread starter jmurphy
- Start date
Depends on what "fully restored" means. Does it mean the rails have been rebuilt correctly, as well as the rest of the table fully restored? A polished turd is still a turd, that goes for the GC3, as well.
I would prefer the new GC1. I haven't seen much difference in prices in GC1-3, and most are bargins, IMO.
I have a GC3, and I have powder coated all of the metal, and replaced the cloth. I didn't mess with the wood other than use "OLD ENGLISH", and left the rail rubbers alone as well.
So in my mind if the GC1 is "like new" it would be the better value, IMO.
Ken
Of all the Gold Crown models, the GC1 had the worst rail bolt anchor design for bolting the rails to the playing surface. The rail bolts are threaded into the figure 8 nut plate to bolt the rails down, but the figure 8 nut plate is mounted to the bottom of the rails with short wood screws, which are always pulled loose every time I get them to work on. Unless that system of bolting the rails down is modified, the rails will never really be able to be bolted down tight to the playing surface, but the figure 8 nut plate will be tightly held down
Gc1
Thats some great info on the GC 1 I remember working at large retail company and the newer Gold Crowns being touted that they were able to be broken down and moved and reassembled to the exact same specifications because of newer bolt anchors that wouldn't slip or strip out, so the rails could be exact. Something to file away thanks RKC
Thats some great info on the GC 1 I remember working at large retail company and the newer Gold Crowns being touted that they were able to be broken down and moved and reassembled to the exact same specifications because of newer bolt anchors that wouldn't slip or strip out, so the rails could be exact. Something to file away thanks RKC
From the two photos I saw the GC1 looks like a brand new table.
One thing that is striking about the GC1 is that the table is "White"
Extended rails with "Diamond Cut" pockets (what ever that means...lol)
Tighten down to just under 4" I'm told (Yikes)
If that table is in Vegas, I assure you the rails were not rebuilt, nor do they have Diamond angles. There's no one in the Vegas area that can rebuild a set of GC Rails right. Ask for some pictures of the bottoms of the rails, that tells the truth.
Not saying the rails couldn't have been shipped out to someone to rebuild them, just saying no one local did the job....right!
I'll try to get photos, the table is in San Diego I believe.
Even worse area.
What kind of cushions are on the rails?
Probably crappy ones you wouldn't approve of, installed by a crappy mechanic you wouldn't approve of, on a table you don't approve of, in a town you don't approve of, in a house you don't approve of, played on by people you don't approve of, in a world that doesn't meet your expectations, well beneath your dignity level and done by some moron who doesn't know as much as you at too low of a price.
I'm no expert by any means, but those pockets just don't look right. I hate that V look angle. It's like trying to shoot into a funnel. Personally I prefer straight cut pockets with parallel sides. Oh well, what do I know?
I'm no expert by any means, but those pockets just don't look right. I hate that V look angle. It's like trying to shoot into a funnel. Personally I prefer straight cut pockets with parallel sides. Oh well, what do I know?
Jay, parallel pocket angles just means a small target, huge hallway. Meaning the balls are either in or out. Shane and Alex ran a lot of racks on the fatboy' set of rail I built for the TAR studio, with Shane running 2 six packs and 1 seven pack. Those pockets were 4 1/8th, but I cut the miter angles down to 140 miter, meaning the pockets had a 5 degree funnel on both sides. Those pockets played great, but do we really need to make pocketing balls a lot easier by making the throat of the pockets 4 1/8th to match the pocket mouth opening?