Thanks for your pictures. I will offer you $65 for the 98 series since you hate it that much:grin-square::grin-square::grin-square:
Thanks to the A-Hole who recommended using a +/-.005 machinist level for my table...
- Thread starter ktrepal85
- Start date
You ask for advice all the time, so someone finally gets one questionably wrong and you call him out as an A-hole.
Calling someone an A-hole for trying to help is not cool, and next time find the answers to your simple questions on your own.
Well, the .005 inch/foot level is the correct one. All the professional mechanics here recommend that level. If you do a google image search, for "pool table level", you will see tons of pictures of this level. You can tell it apart at a glance from the .0005 inch/foot level. The former all have the vial suspended in the air in a round body. The latter have the square body with the vial integrated into it.
Here is a link to Mr Paul Smith, on youtube, describing a bit about leveling tables. He is Mr Diamond himself. Notice he is using the 98 series levels in the short video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpmN_EPq4So
Yourself and your local room did not have success with the 98 series, for whatever reason. But a quick search, will show that the rest of the industry, and we are talking about the pros who do this every day, use the 98 series for their livelihood.
At minimum, that should make you ask the question: "Did I miss something with the 98 series that the pros are doing and I'm not"? And another minimum it should beg you to ask: "Did the guys who recommended it really deserve to be called assholes"?
Here is a link to Mr Paul Smith, on youtube, describing a bit about leveling tables. He is Mr Diamond himself. Notice he is using the 98 series levels in the short video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpmN_EPq4So
Yourself and your local room did not have success with the 98 series, for whatever reason. But a quick search, will show that the rest of the industry, and we are talking about the pros who do this every day, use the 98 series for their livelihood.
At minimum, that should make you ask the question: "Did I miss something with the 98 series that the pros are doing and I'm not"? And another minimum it should beg you to ask: "Did the guys who recommended it really deserve to be called assholes"?
:lol: I am very surprised that a pool hall had a Starrett 199 for leveling tables. I think it is way overboard as leaning on the table could move the bubble, but whatever floats your boat.
Dave
Yeah, I'm calling you one! First of all A-hole....both of the levels you pictured are showing out of level, so what's the point of showing that. Second, you're trying to level a Valley pool table and are complaining that a Starrett 98 isn't good enough to get the job done? Well let me give you some advice, you can't get a Valley pool table perfectly level with ANY level, so are you really that naive to think that you can?
I must have missed the liar part. I would just say your a stupid idiot and a jerk off.
I bought a $150 dollar level for a used Valley pool table. Now I'm going to joint my $2,000 dollar cue and hit some balls and if the balls roll off - everybody else is an a-hole.
To paraphrase Minnesota Fats - buying a $150 dollar level for a Valley table is like putting ice cream on a hot dog.
To paraphrase Minnesota Fats - buying a $150 dollar level for a Valley table is like putting ice cream on a hot dog.
I must be the luckiest person in the world, I used my Starrett 98-12 machinist level on my Gold Crown with no problems whatsoever. I am pretty sure its not even accurate to 5 1/10,000 of an inch. One ten thousandths of an inch can be difficult to read accurately with a micrometer, I have a hard time believing that you will do it accurately on a piece of rock on a pool table with cloth over it.
You do understand that the bigger level is supposed to be ten times the sensivity of the smaller one? So looking at the picture it looks like the smaller is showing about .010" per foot out of level. That's a six inch level, so I'd think a .005" shim under the end of it will get you close to level. You're probably going to need more than that due to compressibility of the shim material and the cloth surface. Now double that amount and put it under the end of the big level and see where the bubble goes. One thing about using levels of this accuracy, it is important to place them in the same place every time. Plus you're setting on a very compressible surface, which is far from ideal. Fool around with shimming the small one and double the amount for the bigger one and I think you might get the bubbles to agree somewhat. Remember...each division on the big one is equal to ten divisions on the little one. I installed machinery for many years and the only time we used the '199' was on precision machine tools.
They both show about the same -
big - about .006 a foot ---- little - about .006 a foot
on a nine foot table that will be close to 1/16 of an inch uphill or downhill - big speed factor
always better to flatten the slates to a level plane before covering -
bill
Aloha
This is one of the funniest threads I have read in a while. Just because you are unaware of how to use a tool properly, does not make it the wrong tool for the job. Although your 98 may be a little short for the job it can still be used, and very accurately might I add.
Maybe do some more research, and learn how use the tool, your table will love you for it, and there will not be so many A-holes in the world. Good luck with your table.
Aloha
This is one of the funniest threads I have read in a while. Just because you are unaware of how to use a tool properly, does not make it the wrong tool for the job. Although your 98 may be a little short for the job it can still be used, and very accurately might I add.
Maybe do some more research, and learn how use the tool, your table will love you for it, and there will not be so many A-holes in the world. Good luck with your table.
Aloha
The only difference between the 2 is length. 98-8 is 8" long and the 98-12 is 12"long. Either should do the job well. Oh yeah, the other difference between them is price. Longer=more $$$
Lol. What a douche bag!
Keep it cool guys.
My 02...
The tool you are showing looks like it is about 100 years old.
Who certified the calibration on this level?
Is it certified?...............is it even calibrated?
My 02...
The tool you are showing looks like it is about 100 years old.
Who certified the calibration on this level?
Is it certified?...............is it even calibrated?
ElCorazonFrio
Banned
Bubble levels are the one inspection tool that can be self-calibrated. All one needs is a relatively level surface upon which the level is checked against itself on a 180 degree bias.
Calibrating a level is kind of ridiculous, in fact. Any competent user will always check the measurements twice, with the level pointed in opposite directions.
The only thing that can be any sort of problem is the surface of the level, but if I were in the practice of taking measurements on 0.030" thick cloth with a 0.005" level, I would have a custom base made with three hardened steel points which would sit more repeatedly on a soft surface.
I disagree.
The OP was grousing that someone gave him bad advice and that a machinist level with .005 accuracy was inadequate...and he *had* to buy a master precision level with .0005 and called him names.
OK?
the difference between .005 and .0005 is a whole order of magnitude.
10 times the accuracy. The spec for the slate is nowhere near this flat and you are not recognizing the differance and saying he can calibrate it himself?? Really?
I doubt he understands the numbers he's talking about.
