Cenntennial, Anniversary, Gold Crown 1, 2, and 3 frames, how flat do think they are

Nick, I think the major flaw in the design of all pool tables starts the moment the slates are attached permanently to the frame, and by that I mean, the table has to be taken apart in order to corrective level the slates in order to compensate for the movement of the frame, no matter what table it is. No leveling system will work 100% if the slate is mounted to the frame in a way that the attachment points can't be reached in order to offer the slates some kind of relief at that point, which is the reason why pool tables have to be taken apart in order to level the slates, and in most pool rooms, the installers don't want to take the extra time needed to open that can of worms, having to deal with the slate seams every time they install new cloth.
 
realkingcobra said:
Nick, I think the major flaw in the design of all pool tables starts the moment the slates are attached permanently to the frame, and by that I mean, the table has to be taken apart in order to corrective level the slates in order to compensate for the movement of the frame, no matter what table it is. No leveling system will work 100% if the slate is mounted to the frame in a way that the attachment points can't be reached in order to offer the slates some kind of relief at that point, which is the reason why pool tables have to be taken apart in order to level the slates, and in most pool rooms, the installers don't want to take the extra time needed to open that can of worms, having to deal with the slate seams every time they install new cloth.
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So what about a leveling/clamping system that:
1. Was able to clamp down the slate to the frame
2. Was able to push up the slate (on the same exact point as #1, so as not to introduce a torque to the slate)
3. You could adjust #1 and #2 it from under the table, without taking the cloth or the rails off.

I'll make a sketch of what I'm talking about in the next few days. See if you think it might work. Just a rough idea/brainstorm.

Thanks for the thread.
 
iusedtoberich said:
So what about a leveling/clamping system that:
1. Was able to clamp down the slate to the frame
2. Was able to push up the slate (on the same exact point as #1, so as not to introduce a torque to the slate)
3. You could adjust #1 and #2 it from under the table, without taking the cloth or the rails off.

I'll make a sketch of what I'm talking about in the next few days. See if you think it might work. Just a rough idea/brainstorm.

Thanks for the thread.
Click to expand...

I already have that system in my design, rail bolts clamp the rails through the frame, through the slate, and into the rails. When tightened up, the slate is sandwiched between the frame and the rails, and there's a leveler right in line with each rail bolt. 30 rail bolts, 30 leveling points. I can fully adjust the slate for level all the way around the outside edges of the slate, as well as 5 places down the center of the slate, without taking anything apart.
 
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iusedtoberich said:
So what about a leveling/clamping system that:
1. Was able to clamp down the slate to the frame
2. Was able to push up the slate (on the same exact point as #1, so as not to introduce a torque to the slate)
3. You could adjust #1 and #2 it from under the table, without taking the cloth or the rails off.

I'll make a sketch of what I'm talking about in the next few days. See if you think it might work. Just a rough idea/brainstorm.

Thanks for the thread.
Click to expand...

Look at post 75, first and second pictures. Do you see the 5 rail bolt holes going through the outside edge of the frame plates? Now look directly in at each rail bolt hole, that next hole in is where the leveler is mounted, it comes straight up through the frame in line with each rail bolt.
 
As far as the torque you're referring to, the plywood will give a certain amount long before the slate will bend down over the leveling point which would cause the center of the slate to want to lift, but with only 2 1/2" between the rail bolt and the leveling point, and the slight flexibility of the plywood, I haven't seen any indication of change in level at that point toward the center of the slate.
 
I wish all local pool halls here had Gold Crown tables .
Most have Valley, Goldenwest and Olhausen.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I wish all local pool halls here had Gold Crown tables .
Most have Valley, Goldenwest and Olhausen.
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Those who opened pool rooms with those makes of pool tables, we're never pool room owners as reflected by the choice of pool tables, they were just looking at the pool hall as a business, and bought equipment which reflects the same....to them, a pool table is a pool table is a pool table, which just also happens or reflect about 90% of the sales of pool tables to home owners, who know nothing about quality, only that it looks good, and it's priced right;)
 
realkingcobra said:
[QU OTE= pdcue;5337191]---- ------.-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
" I'm sure I have more experience with the types of cloth used on pool tables than you do"
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Well you statements just happen to prove that you don't

Tho you are pretty good at spouting irrelevant data instead of answering a question.
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Well the people who sold it to me referred to it as "Stevens 100% wool<unbacked>.
The point is it was just as unforgiving to slate imperfections as 860.

AS I suspected, you selectively remember only the tables intended to caters to bangers
while the gazillion places you never saw you choose to pretend never existed.

Dale
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Dale, I'm going to correct you one last time, because maybe you just don't understand. Stevens 22oz' Super Weave cloth was the best non- worsted wool cloth on the market in its day as far as I'm concerned, but it was not 100% wool, it was a blend of 80/20 wool/nylon....I installed thousands of yards of it...OK? Now, it's speed compared to Simonis 860 can only be in your memory because Simonis 860 didn't exist at that time...OK? Now, yes Stevens did come out with a worsted woolen cloth, but it was short lived because Mali bought Stevens out, the mill then started making their cloth to Mali's, specifications, as did the Warren cloth mill Mali bought out. Simonis came out with the 860 around the mid 90's I think, but don't quote me on that, Greg Sullivan would known that answer to that kick off time better than I would, as he was instrumental in the development of the cloth[/QUOTE]
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Please hire someone to teach you to read...

Dale(pretty good at reading - not as good as Lou at writing)
 
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realkingcobra said:
Which 70' Camara model do you own again?
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No Camaras, but I have owned 6 Camaros over the years, and 14 Gold Crowns,
probably about 227 pairs of socks, but only one house.

BTW, not one single slate seam on any table I ever set up(GCs, Nationals, antiques)
ever needed to be redone once I got it flat.

I must be REALLY lucky.

Dale
 
pdcue said:
No Camaras, but I have owned 6 Camaros over the years, and 14 Gold Crowns,
probably about 227 pairs of socks, but only one house.

BTW, not one single slate seam on any table I ever set up(GCs, Nationals, antiques)
ever needed to be redone once I got it flat.

I must be REALLY lucky.

Dale
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Lucky?...how about not really knowing what you're doing, so it's perfect...if you say it is....got any pictures of that work you did?
 
Thanks for the reply. I was referring to the snake WATER LEVEL, that might be 20 foot long.
 
It is a hose with graduations on it, that comes in the length you want. When it's laid out, you can see the water level by way of the marked graduations.
 
realkingcobra said:
How does temperature effect the hose?
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How does the temperature affect the water, the floor, the slate, the frame, the cloth, the rails and the cushions.

To answer your question, the tubes will expand with an increase in temperature, but as long as they are all the same temperature, they are self-correcting.
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
How does the temperature affect the water, the floor, the slate, the frame, the cloth, the rails and the cushions.

To answer your question, the tubes will expand with an increase in temperature, but as long as they are all the same temperature, they are self-correcting.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry, but could you put that in thousandths of an inch increments please? Because that's the measurements I use when leveling slates!
 
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