Points or not on a new cue

9Ballr

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This has been discussed over and over again but I'm interested in knowing
if there's a reason - other than aesthetics - to get points on a new cue?

I've been talking to a maker and can't decide if I want to spend the extra
500 on points or not.
I know the hit is identical...or at least I don't notice the difference.

So my question is; is there any other reason than just look?
For example I started wondering if cues with points lose less of their value in resale?

What's the point in all these points and inlays?
Personally I like plain janes but I can't help but wonder if I shouldn't consider points
if for no other reason than the resale value.

Any thoughts on this?
 
From the perspective of resale value, this may be a good forum for your question. From the perspective of structural impact, you may want to also ask the same question in the Ask the Cuemaker forum.

I know what I was taught many years ago. But that information may be similar to other incorrect lore that is commonly spread around AZ.
 
What kind of points are you talking about? How many? I don't have to have points on my cues, but I do in my current playing cues. Just get what you like the best. If you think it's worth the extra go for it and if you don't then leave them off.

Just be sure that you have no regrets with your decision.
 
What kind of points are you talking about? How many?


All I know is that we talked about four points in the forearm.
As to what kind I don't know but aren't they usually veneer?
I think using 4 to 5 veneer is always classic and beautiful.

But I won't do it if there's no real point, pardon the pun.

If I'm taking the same hit on resale value - points or no points -
I don't see the....point in paying extra for points.
 
How many cues do you intend to buy over the next 5, 10, 20 years?

Don't settle for something you may not be replacing for awhile or might prefer as a different design cue.

Besides the appearance of your cue, the design......you have to enjoy the hit and feel of ithe cue's play.

Obviously you cannot know the cue's hit until it arrives......so at the outset, pay attention to its design.

Get what you want or it will haunt you as you spot cues over the years with designs you wish you had.


Matt B.
 
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Cues

This has been discussed over and over again but I'm interested in knowing
if there's a reason - other than aesthetics - to get points on a new cue?

I've been talking to a maker and can't decide if I want to spend the extra
500 on points or not.
I know the hit is identical...or at least I don't notice the difference.

So my question is; is there any other reason than just look?
For example I started wondering if cues with points lose less of their value in resale?

What's the point in all these points and inlays?
Personally I like plain janes but I can't help but wonder if I shouldn't consider points
if for no other reason than the resale value.

Any thoughts on this?

I like them all, points, no points, floating points.
Wood with figure wood with out figure.
As long as it plays well and it looks good who cares .
 
Points kinda depends on the wood. Of you have some really pretty wood, points only detracts from the natural beauty of the wood.
 
sale

I know that I have had a hard time selling cues with no points on forums. They take longer to sell - and certainly do not fetch the same money that cues with points do. Especially on the secondary market.
 
I used to hand select my woods, then decide on Points / no Points
dependant on the beauty of the Wood by itself. I had the Cue maker
do an initial turn on the forearm and butt, spray them with lighter
fluid, then make my decision to go plain or add points. Some Woods
just "scream" to be left au naturel.
 
The thing with new cues is the loss when selling. Figure 40 - 50 percent haircut. So the more you pay the more you loose. Points are pretty but I doubt they help a cue play better. And they might kill a very small amount of feel or feedback. Just my opinion.
 
If you dont know the difference between points and veneers, id say the only deciding factor should be the $.
 
I've been talking to a maker and can't decide if I want to spend the extra
500 on points or not.
I know the hit is identical...or at least I don't notice the difference.

I never bought anything with the intention of selling it someday. Buy what you really want or can afford. $500 is a lot of money to save...also it can used for another cue someday.
Buy what you like. Buy it now and don't look back. Do it right the first time. A quality cue will last a lifetime. Points are strictly for looks. You like them...get them...not sure...wait until you make a firm decision.
My first 2 cues were sold a year or two after I bought them. I got what I could for them and used the money for a different cue. Lost a few bucks. So what.
 
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IMHO-

I like points. But I like nice wood without points too.

I have a cue made it will probably have points or butterflies. The exception would be if it really had spectacular wood. Even then, I might have points put in it.

With cost being an issue and you are getting a player made I would definitely make sure I got two shafts before ever stepping up to points. I would also consider upgrading to old growth if not already part of the deal.

Put the money into the shafts. You'll thank me for it. :wink:


Anything left? Make sure you have a good case. Good cues in cheap cases and vice versa rubs me the wrong way. That's just me but I am sure you can see why.


That's what I think. :grin-square::grin-square:


As far as the hit, it is unlikely you could ever tell the difference. I will say that I do favor hardwood veneers though. Why would one put softwood into a cue? Just an add on thought.
 
I'd ask this question in the cuemakers forum. Structurally tho, one would think, the more layers the less chance of warpage and the better the structure. Marine plywood is a good example. Years ago I had a zodiac with laminated mahogany floorboards. You could drop a steel 80 on it, and all it would do is dent it, not crack it.
 
I'd ask this question in the cuemakers forum. Structurally tho, one would think, the more layers the less chance of warpage and the better the structure. Marine plywood is a good example. Years ago I had a zodiac with laminated mahogany floorboards. You could drop a steel 80 on it, and all it would do is dent it, not crack it.

I would think the more parts to a given structure, the greater its strength?

Nt that that' necessarily applicable to cues, per se.
 
This Is How I See Things.......You May Not Agree.

Gotta disagree with lakeman77 about losing 40-50% on a new cue........maybe if it's a run of the mill ho-hum production cue.

You get a new Tascarella, Mobley, JMW, Searing, Szamboti, Ginacue, Hercek, Prewitt, Tibbits, Manzino, etc.......the elite cue-makers......you aren't likely to get dinged like lakeman77 describes.

Now the question becomes whom is in the "elite" category and naturally everyone has their opinion. Personally, I think Steve Klein is a cue-maker that comes to mind......you might not agree? I also have seen some cues from Kenny Murrell that make me think he also deserves consideration. My point is it's important to recognize that there are pool cues and there are "cue-makers" and the the demand and value of the cues depends largely on the cue-maker. You aren't going to lose 40-50% selling a new cue you had made by any of the aforementioned cue-makers.

Then there are the retired and deceased cue-makers.....like Verl Horn, Tad Kohara, Mike Cochran, Tim Scruggs, Bill Stroud, Paul Mottey, etc.........if you've acquired a cue made by a esteemed cue-maker that no longer makes cues, rest assured you also aren't going to lose 40-50%........the funny thing is depending upon the cue-maker, and when you acquired the cue and the price yu paid, you can also turn a tidy profit like I did with a Mottey cue.

My point is the resale market is fickle, undervalued and very selective. The top name cue-makers seem to always be in demand but there are lots of other cue-makers that don't fall into the 40-50% risk/loss category.....Thomas Wayne, Dzuricky, Leon Sly, Eddie Cohen, Bob Frey, Bob Owen, Jerry Rauenzahn, Bob Runde, Richard Black are some examples and there are other names that can be added to this list.

When you order a cue straight from a catalog or a website equivalent, you can and should expect that your possible resale will suffer and 40-50% isn't out of line as lakeman77 forewarned. I've seen some Schon cues suffer that fate, although personally I think it's probably one of the most solid hitting cues made. Nonetheless, as long as you buy the right cue-maker and the design isn't an ugly duckling.....although sometimes that might not even matter.......you should do okay when you resell your cue.

I am not implying you'd net a profit like I did on the cues I've previously sold that which included the Mottey cue and three Joss West cues I've owned. What I am saying is if you buy right, you don't have to worry about a big loss when you look to sell the cue. Even in this awful resale market, cues from top name cue-makers still seem to sell, albeit sometimes requiring a little more time than in the past.......if the seller prices the cue right, it will sell reasonably quickly........everyone has seen threads like that.......as well a few sale threads that struggle finding a new owner........Hey, that's the screwy resale market for pool cues.


Matt B.
 
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1. NO, IMO. However some cues hold their value because of aesthetics and some hold their value for performance and some hold their value for both.

2. A cue's resale value is based upon many different things and not just one thing such as the inlays or points.

3. Beauty. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

4. Get a consensus of opinion, that's fine. But buy what you want for the reasons you want and don't allow anyone to influence your decision.

No points:
picture.php


http://forums.azbilliards.com/picture.php?albumid=794&pictureid=16176

http://forums.azbilliards.com/picture.php?albumid=956&pictureid=16173

POINTS:
picture.php


INLAYS:
picture.php


FTR, I play with the plainest of these cues but only because it was designed to play the best.

JoeyA

This has been discussed over and over again but I'm interested in knowing
if there's a reason - other than aesthetics - to get points on a new cue?

I've been talking to a maker and can't decide if I want to spend the extra
500 on points or not.
I know the hit is identical...or at least I don't notice the difference.

So my question is; is there any other reason than just look?
For example I started wondering if cues with points lose less of their value in resale?

What's the point in all these points and inlays?
Personally I like plain janes but I can't help but wonder if I shouldn't consider points
if for no other reason than the resale value.

Any thoughts on this?
 
I just scanned the thread so I do not even know if the question is regarding for resale as an investment which it seems to be...

but in my opinion even though many will say BS, I find that a good spliced cue plays better as it relate to feel...

at least to some individuals.

Others don't feel any difference.

Like Joey said though, a cue can have playability in mind in its construction design.

And... Beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder.

That said... I think too many like blondes. :wink:
k;
but many do look very good... but I found that a good brunette played better & was more reliable.:wink:
 
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The question should be whether to get points or not, but to get bridged points or not. Lol love me some bridge points.
 
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