Diamonds trapping balls

Usually when you jaw or rattle a ball on Diamond or any table for that matter with similar pocket angles and miters is because you clipped the rail on the way in. I have done this so many times that when I see it happen on youtube tournament videos I pause and play back at 1/4 speed to see what causes this.

Yes but it stays over the pocket
 
Exactly. Remember, Diamond tables were designed by professional players, FOR professional players. If it rattles you weren't cheated. You missed.

That's not really the point, the problem is for one it stays over the pocket secondly you can still slop balls hitting the rail 2 ft up so it has nothing to do with accuracy.
 
http://www.wpa-pool.com/web/WPA_Tournament_Table_Equipment_SpecificationsVertical Pocket
The PREMIER table restorer told me , he prefers 13* for a reason.
Not going to argue with him.


Someone needs to tell WPA 142 degrees is bad enough. +1 is even worse.
139 degrees would play better. Specially on old cloth.
143 degrees will definitely be hated when the cloth gets older.

I'd bet the +1 is either a typo or some sort of translation error, and that it is intended to be ±1.
 
I'd bet the +1 is either a typo or some sort of translation error, and that it is intended to be ±1.

I'd bet the +1 is correct. Plus angles over 143 degrees make tougher pockets.
Minus angles less than 143 degrees will make the corner pockets play easier.

IMO

.
 
100% its supposed to be a plus/minus tolerance. If you read the whole spec document you will see for yourself. Its been wrong for a decade on the WPA site. I think I emailed them a while back but it was never fixed.
 
... The way in which balls that are shot into roughly 75-100% of the opening and catch the point of the facing are rejected yet balls that are shot at 0-25% of the opening can hit the rail 2 ft away and still go in.
This makes no sense if you are trying to make the game require more accuracy.
If I understand this correctly, it's that some pockets have a "hole" in them. That is, if you are shooting nearly parallel to the rail and just barely hit the point (and the pocket facing) the ball rattles and hangs but if you hit farther up the rail, the ball slides into the pocket. (Speed and spin are identical for the two shots.)

Is that what you mean?
 
If I understand this correctly, it's that some pockets have a "hole" in them. That is, if you are shooting nearly parallel to the rail and just barely hit the point (and the pocket facing) the ball rattles and hangs but if you hit farther up the rail, the ball slides into the pocket. (Speed and spin are identical for the two shots.)

Is that what you mean?

Bob, if you approach a corner pocket from the center of the table you have the full pocket opening ie 100%, as you move off this axis the pocket becomes smaller >100% until you reach the rail where the opening is almost 0. Balls going into a full pocket only need to catch the point and will be rejected, balls struck nearer the rail can be off by quite some margin and still go in.
 
I'd bet the +1 is correct. ...
.

nah

100% its supposed to be a plus/minus tolerance. If you read the whole spec document you will see for yourself. Its been wrong for a decade on the WPA site. I think I emailed them a while back but it was never fixed.

yup. Here's one spot where the document itself proves the errors: "Rail height (nose-line to table-bed) should be 63 ½% (+1 %) or between 62 ½% and 64 ½ % of the diameter of the ball."
 
nah



yup. Here's one spot where the document itself proves the errors: "Rail height (nose-line to table-bed) should be 63 ½% (+1 %) or between 62 ½% and 64 ½ % of the diameter of the ball."

At +-1, it should be at 140* then.
WPA still needs a clue.
 
WPA also says rails shall not be wider than 6"....Diamonds aerial 7" and Brunswick Metro 9fts are even wider;)

From the WPA equipment specs: "The rail width must be between 4 [10.16 cm] and 7 ½ inches [19.05 cm] including the rubber cushions."
 
Yes but it stays over the pocket

That's not really the point, the problem is for one it stays over the pocket secondly you can still slop balls hitting the rail 2 ft up so it has nothing to do with accuracy.

#1 depends on how hard you hit them. Pocket speed which is most likely to drop even on a poorly hit ball will park in opening, medium speed will often stay in front of pocket but pretty often rattle back out of jaws, and a stiffly struck ball almost always rattles out, sometimes you get lucky and bank it across to the other side then back into the original pocket you called. I have seen this happen often enough playing BCA pocket and ball calls.

#2 If you are slopping balls in from 2 diamonds up the rail on a Diamond you must be rolling them in very slow or you are playing on a "league cut" Diamond, that will not work on a "pro cut" Diamond (4 1/2" pocket) thats probably why you are rattling shots, thats fine to be that far off on your aim on a Valley but its going to bite you on a Diamond. Improve your aim and you will stop jawing balls. You can always tell the people who play predominately on Valleys when you play them in a tournament on Diamonds, they always try to pocket balls at too high of speed and rattle balls.
 
#1 depends on how hard you hit them. Pocket speed which is most likely to drop even on a poorly hit ball will park in opening, medium speed will often stay in front of pocket but pretty often rattle back out of jaws, and a stiffly struck ball almost always rattles out, sometimes you get lucky and bank it across to the other side then back into the original pocket you called. I have seen this happen often enough playing BCA pocket and ball calls.

#2 If you are slopping balls in from 2 diamonds up the rail on a Diamond you must be rolling them in very slow or you are playing on a "league cut" Diamond, that will not work on a "pro cut" Diamond (4 1/2" pocket) thats probably why you are rattling shots, thats fine to be that far off on your aim on a Valley but its going to bite you on a Diamond. Improve your aim and you will stop jawing balls. You can always tell the people who play predominately on Valleys when you play them in a tournament on Diamonds, they always try to pocket balls at too high of speed and rattle balls.

Are you sure
https://youtu.be/msX3qSKOu6k?t=7m42s

BTW I am not rattling shots and don't have an accuracy problem, I make centuries on my home table a 6x12 with 3-1/8" pockets so it's not an issue.
I am just commenting in general about the cut of the pockets.
 
I think thats the way the pocket is supposed to be

I understand how it happens, deep shelf hard pocket facings etc, on a snooker table the cushion rubber goes all the way round the opening and 99% of the time it spits the ball down the rail.
What I don't get is in the effort to tighten the tables the playability has been compromised.
The way in which balls that are shot into roughly 75-100% of the opening and catch the point of the facing are rejected yet balls that are shot at 0-25% of the opening can hit the rail 2 ft away and still go in.
This makes no sense if you are trying to make the game require more accuracy.

I think thats the way any pockets going to be unless of course you turn the sideways to take away the accepting pocket from a shallow angle rail brush.
 
Back
Top