The Simplest Aiming Systems to Visualize and Use

You mean this?

Maybe I misunderstood. What's that a simple version of?

pj
chgo
OK, here we go… basically my approach is really what CJ teaches as his TOI system, which I consider to be a slightly unusual form of 1/8b fractional aiming and integrates what I find to be useful components from the CTE guys and what some folks call “shaft aiming”. For lack of a better term I call my mashup approach “iCTE” (for inside index CTE), its just a silly name to slightly differentiate from the other variations - I take no credit for any of the concepts, this is just the result of me exploring & testing all of the main systems out there and a description of what I found to work best and easiest for my own game, and to teach to my daughter and a few friends.

In my mind its a simpler, more “pure” form of CTE in that all one ever looks at on the object ball is the center or edge. No contact points, fractions, or A, B, C, D aimlines. On the CB you only always look at the center and index very slightly to the inside of center CB to create what is essentially 1/8b fractions to make the cut angle. It easy & simple because our relationship to the CB is close, under our control, consistent and can be done by looking at fractions of the tip/ferrule, namely center, 1/4, 1/2, or full tip offsets which are pretty easily seen. A wonderfully convenient relationship that I find very helpful in the approach and not mentioned in any literature that I’ve seen is that a full tip of the avg pool cue size (12.5 mm, or 1/2”) roughly equates to 1/4 of a 2.25” pool ball and a 1/2 tip roughly equates to a 1/8 ball (and of course 1/4 tip roughly equals 1/16b). But knowledge of the ball fractions & shot angles is not at all necessary to use the system, its just an interesting factoid. Essentially one is really simply only ever aligning the center, or edge of the ferrule to one of two basic CB/OB alignments; CTC or CTE. 1/4 tip sounds tough to see/feel, but since its really just 1/2 way between center and edge of the tip, its also quite easy to develop a feel for. Another point worth mentioning is that all we are ever really dealing with on pool cuts is the outer 90 degree quadrant of the OB sphere that is facing us; due to 3D distortions, 2D fractional aiming concepts on paper are not really accurate. Due to this curvature perception issue & the pockets being 2x the ball size, practically this means that the 3/4 ball (15 deg) shot and tiny variations of it can make lots of shots covering a wide range of thick shot angles, and the 5/8 fraction (between 3/4 & 1/2 ball) is almost impossible to actually see & can basically be ignored. Similarly 1/2b perception (CTE, 30 deg) can be used to make a lot more shots than is intuitively obvious, as the thinner the cut angle, the smaller the ball fraction becomes, as there is literally much less contact area/line to physically see, even if one was hunting the actual contact point or virtual slice.

CTC & CTE references are very easy for anyone to see and to align our center vision & stance to during PSR and I believe this approach resolves numerous issues with some of the other CTE and traditional fractional aiming approaches, all of which have you attempting to visualize some form of semi imaginary points on the OB, and wrestling with confusing pivot concepts. More specifically, when staring at balls for hours on end visualizing the actual tiny physical contact points or imaginary fraction lines on the OB can be difficult to perform reliably & are very optically/mentally stressful for many folks. This approach also resolves the common question often posed by folks new to these approaches which is: “well, how to I determine what fraction/angle/shotline is correct to use for the shot I’m looking at?”. Brian developed a very cool math based system for addressing this issue: Poolology. IMO his system is facinating, but still quite complex and not necessarily practical to implement on the table, at least not for me, and not so easy to teach. In CJ’s approach, its very easy to first determine whether a cut is thick (CTC) or thin (CTE). From there, with practice one can quite easily determine if center tip, 1/4, 1/2, or full tip inside offset makes the cut - even in early stages, when developing the feel for this, one can simply rapidly mentally cycle through those options and arrive at a solution very quickly. In reality, something like 80-90% of most pool cut shots are < 35 degrees, so for the vast majority of our game indexing a 1/4 to 1/2 tip inside from CTC or CTE makes the shot. With practice this turns into more of an analog triangulation system, essentially a feel approach, based off the very simple fundamental CTC/CTE alignments.

In my mind all these CTE ish systems are in fact derived from basic 1/4b fractions, and the reason they all work pretty well is that our human visual processing & proprioception systems operate on contrast & are concentric in nature. This means that we automatically look to the edges & centers of things, and we can easily bisect objects & spaces into into halves. This “simplified” approach based on CTC/CTE builds on these concepts and reduces complexity even further. There is a related very simple algorithm in computer science known as binary search. Babies intuitively point at things from birth - by age 5 most of us can look at a light switch on the wall one time, look away, and then again blindly point at it - 80% of folks will hit it the first time, other 20% will get it after only 2-3 tries. Try it right now. These natural visual systems can be further developed through education & training.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I think the addition of a secondary visual reference line which I call the “inside edge reference line”, when coupled with the CTC/CTE lines, (inside edge of CB to inside edge of OB on CTC, and inside edge of CB to center of OB for CTE) is a very powerful construct to help reduce parallax issues during PSR.

There you go - not really the simple explantion you asked for, but the result on table is quite simple and at least it doesn’t take a book. My take on things, since you asked - just some views from some nerdy pool bum on the Internet.

Cheers ✌️
 
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OK, here we go… basically my approach is really what CJ teaches as his TOI system, which I consider to be a slightly unusual form of 1/8b fractional aiming and integrates what I find to be useful components from the CTE guys and what some folks call “shaft aiming”. For lack of a better term I call my mashup approach “iCTE” (for inside index CTE), its just a silly name to slightly differentiate from the other variations - I take no credit for any of the concepts, this is just the result of me exploring & testing all of the main systems out there and a description of what I found to work best and easiest for my own game, and to teach to my daughter and a few friends.

In my mind its a simpler, more “pure” form of CTE in that all one ever looks at on the object ball is the center or edge. No contact points, fractions, or A, B, C, D aimlines. On the CB you only always look at the center and index very slightly to the inside of center CB to create what is essentially 1/8b fractions to make the cut angle. It easy & simple because our relationship to the CB is close, under our control, consistent and can be done by looking at fractions of the tip/ferrule, namely center, 1/4, 1/2, or full tip offsets which are pretty easily seen. A wonderfully convenient relationship that I find very helpful in the approach and not mentioned in any literature that I’ve seen is that a full tip of the avg pool cue size (12.5 mm, or 1/2”) roughly equates to 1/4 of a 2.25” pool ball and a 1/2 tip roughly equates to a 1/8 ball (and of course 1/4 tip roughly equals 1/16b). But knowledge of the ball fractions & shot angles is not at all necessary to use the system, its just an interesting factoid. Essentially one is really simply only ever aligning the center, or edge of the ferrule to one of two basic CB/OB alignments; CTC or CTE. 1/4 tip sounds tough to see/feel, but since its really just 1/2 way between center and edge of the tip, its also quite easy to develop a feel for. Another point worth mentioning is that all we are ever really dealing with on pool cuts is the outer 90 degree quadrant of the OB sphere that is facing us; due to 3D distortions, 2D fractional aiming concepts on paper are not really accurate. Due to this curvature perception issue & the pockets being 2x the ball size, practically this means that the 3/4 ball (15 deg) shot and tiny variations of it can make lots of shots covering a wide range of thick shot angles, and the 5/8 fraction (between 3/4 & 1/2 ball) is almost impossible to actually see & can basically be ignored. Similarly 1/2b perception (CTE, 30 deg) can be used to make a lot more shots than is intuitively obvious, as the thinner the cut angle, the smaller the ball fraction becomes, as there is literally much less contact area/line to physically see, even if one was hunting the actual contact point or virtual slice.

CTC & CTE references are very easy for anyone to see and to align our center vision & stance to during PSR and I believe this approach resolves numerous issues with some of the other CTE and traditional fractional aiming approaches, all of which have you attempting to visualize some form of semi imaginary points on the OB, and wrestling with confusing pivot concepts. More specifically, when staring at balls for hours on end visualizing the actual tiny physical contact points or imaginary fraction lines on the OB can be difficult to perform reliably & are very optically/mentally stressful for many folks. This approach also resolves the common question often posed by folks new to these approaches which is: “well, how to I determine what fraction/angle/shotline is correct to use for the shot I’m looking at?”. Brian developed a very cool math based system for addressing this issue: Poolology. IMO his system is facinating, but still quite complex and not necessarily practical to implement on the table, at least not for me, and not so easy to teach. In CJ’s approach, its very easy to first determine whether a cut is thick (CTC) or thin (CTE). From there, with practice one can quite easily determine if center tip, 1/4, 1/2, or full tip inside offset makes the cut - even in early stages, when developing the feel for this, one can simply rapidly mentally cycle through those options and arrive at a solution very quickly. In reality, something like 80-90% of most pool cut shots are < 35 degrees, so for the vast majority of our game indexing a 1/4 to 1/2 tip inside from CTC or CTE makes the shot. With practice this turns into more of an analog triangulation system, essentially a feel approach, based off the very simple fundamental CTC/CTE alignments.

In my mind all these CTE ish systems are in fact derived from basic 1/4b fractions, and the reason they all work pretty well is that our human visual processing & proprioception systems operate on contrast & are concentric in nature. This means that we automatically look to the edges & centers of things, and we can easily bisect objects & spaces into into halves. This “simplified” approach based on CTC/CTE builds on these concepts and reduces complexity even further. There is a related very simple algorithm in computer science known as binary search. Babies intuitively point at things from birth - by age 5 most of us can look at a light switch on the wall one time, look away, and then again blindly point at it - 80% of folks will hit it the first time, other 20% will get it after only 2-3 tries. Try it right now. These natural visual systems can be further developed through education & training.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I think the addition of a secondary visual reference line which I call the “inside edge reference line”, when coupled with the CTC/CTE lines, (inside edge of CB to inside edge of OB on CTC, and inside edge of CB to center of OB for CTE) is a very powerful construct to help reduce parallax issues during PSR.

There you go - not really the simple explantion you asked for, but the result on table is quite simple and at least it doesn’t take a book. My take on things, since you asked - just some views from some nerdy pool bum on the Internet.

Cheers ✌️
Seriously? Any aiming plan that takes all that to explain is waaaaaaaaay too complicated.
 
Mine: start every shot at center-to-edge. from there adjusting to proper contact point-to-contact point overlaps is easy. shoot. really is that simple.
Ok, thanks for your authoritative final word on the subject. Rock on & move on then brother. 😂

I offered up a simple 2 liner earlier in the thread. I was asked to expand on it and I reluctantly did. CJ has plenty of good stuff, as do some others - but I personally found his stuff non intuitive and hard to grasp initially. A few paragraphs sums up my results & distillation of many months of working through numerous aiming systems, all of which are documented in long papers, books or video series. So, it seems relatively brief to me. Also, just because something is ultimately simple doesn’t mean its easy to explain or teach, and IMO any/all of these systems take discipline & work to really grok.

I believe most analytical types like to know at least some detail & rationale for why & how something is said to be simpler or better, I certainly do and I think such logic & rationale is whats largely missing from the great CTE debate. Clearly there are many approaches which work, and they are all just fine by me. Life & learning discussions do not a have to be a combat sport. Glad you have a simpler method & are happy with it.

✌️
 
Ok, thanks for your authoritative final word on the subject. Rock on & move on then brother. 😂

I offered up a simple 2 liner earlier in the thread. I was asked to expand on it. I did, or just see CJ’s stuff. A few paragraphs sums up my results & distillation of majy months of working through numerous aiming systems, all of which are documented in long papers, books or video series. So, ot seems relatively brief to me. Also, just because something is ultimately easy doesn’t mean its easy to explain or teach, and IMO any/all of these systems take discipline & work to really grok.

I believe most analytical types like to know at least some detail & rationale for why & how something is said to be simpler or better, I certainly do and I think such logic & rationale is whats largely missing from the great CTE debate. Clearly there are many approaches which work, and they are all just fine by me. Life & learning discussions do not a have to be a combat sport. Glad you have a simpler method & are happy with it.

✌️
never said it was the final word. aiming is not as hard or as convoluted as many on this forum seem to believe. btw, CJ's deal is NOT an aiming system in any way. its a playing system. he does have a parallel -shift aiming method but TOI has nothing to do with aiming. rock on, peace signs and all that other stuff.............
 
never said it was the final word. aiming is not as hard or as convoluted as many on this forum seem to believe. btw, CJ's deal is NOT an aiming system in any way. its a playing system. he does have a parallel -shift aiming method but TOI has nothing to do with aiming. rock on, peace signs and all that other stuff.............
Ugh. All the usual nonsense & attitude. just impossible to have a civil discussion…

Thx, you’re right CJ’s approach is best described as a playing system. Actually his aiming approach at one point was called the “Ultimate Aiming System” and while taught separately from his TOI, fundies & banking concepts, they are all very interrelated which of course is the fantastic part of his approach to the game, but also makes it hard to explain or summarize concisely. All of which is readily available on his free YT channel and subscription site. I’ve spent non trivial time with his content and in person lessons, but thanks for your usual sagey firm opinions of his stuff.

I’ll leave off emojis and peace signs and generally bow out now, as you seem to be an easily incensed & combative type no matter what the topic is.
 
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Ugh. All the usual nonsense & attitude. just impossible to have a civil discussion…

Thx, you’re right CJ’s approach is best described as a playing system. Actually his aiming approach at one point was called the “Ultimate Aiming System” and while taught separately from his TOI & fundies & banking concepts, they are all very inter relate. All of which is reasily availabke on his free UT channel and subscription site. I’ve spent non trivial time his content and in person lessons, but thanks for the expert illumination.

I’ll leave off emojis and peace signs and generally bow out now, as you seem to he a hyper cynical & combative sage no matter what the topic is.
see ya karen.
 
You mean relative to a laser, or in general? I'm not an instructor and whenever I say anything here it is only what has worked for me. I think there are general principles like "stay still" or "loose grip" but my guess ultimately is that the player has to figure out the nuances that work for themselves. I would be hesitant to say any one thing is better than another because, well, I'm not an instructor.

I think a laser could be used to show cause and effect and maybe some other things but it wouldn't be a quick thing to do. If I ever retire and need something to do...
The only lasers I'm quite familiar with are the ones on rifles and pistols. Pistol lasers would be more akin to what I see possibly beneficial for pool and a pool cue while stroking. What kind of laser do you have and where is it set up? On a rail?
On the cue? On the ceiling or wall?

With a pistol, the laser/gun can be used in the house without live ammo for dry firing scenarios to see if the gun is in fact being aimed exactly on target as well as what happens when the trigger is pulled. Some pistols have a long trigger pull as well as hard trigger pull. The way the gun is being gripped, the strength of the finger, and the smoothness of the actual pull on the trigger to hold it online can have the laser jumping all over the place from its original position. It creates a major problem for sharp accuracy. From that feedback, different things can be worked on to minimize movement/misaiming from happening.

If a laser for pool is anywhere else other than on the cue, I would see it as pretty much worthless. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If it isn't on the cue, where and how does the benefit come in?

And if it is on the cue, I can think of all kinds of different experiments to test the variables that go into making a better stroke for accuracy.

Btw, I thought you already were retired.
 
OK, here we go… basically my approach is really what CJ teaches as his TOI system, which I consider to be a slightly unusual form of 1/8b fractional aiming and integrates what I find to be useful components from the CTE guys and what some folks call “shaft aiming”. For lack of a better term I call my mashup approach “iCTE” (for inside index CTE), its just a silly name to slightly differentiate from the other variations - I take no credit for any of the concepts, this is just the result of me exploring & testing all of the main systems out there and a description of what I found to work best and easiest for my own game, and to teach to my daughter and a few friends.

In my mind its a simpler, more “pure” form of CTE in that all one ever looks at on the object ball is the center or edge. No contact points, fractions, or A, B, C, D aimlines. On the CB you only always look at the center and index very slightly to the inside of center CB to create what is essentially 1/8b fractions to make the cut angle. It easy & simple because our relationship to the CB is close, under our control, consistent and can be done by looking at fractions of the tip/ferrule, namely center, 1/4, 1/2, or full tip offsets which are pretty easily seen. A wonderfully convenient relationship that I find very helpful in the approach and not mentioned in any literature that I’ve seen is that a full tip of the avg pool cue size (12.5 mm, or 1/2”) roughly equates to 1/4 of a 2.25” pool ball and a 1/2 tip roughly equates to a 1/8 ball (and of course 1/4 tip roughly equals 1/16b). But knowledge of the ball fractions & shot angles is not at all necessary to use the system, its just an interesting factoid. Essentially one is really simply only ever aligning the center, or edge of the ferrule to one of two basic CB/OB alignments; CTC or CTE. 1/4 tip sounds tough to see/feel, but since its really just 1/2 way between center and edge of the tip, its also quite easy to develop a feel for. Another point worth mentioning is that all we are ever really dealing with on pool cuts is the outer 90 degree quadrant of the OB sphere that is facing us; due to 3D distortions, 2D fractional aiming concepts on paper are not really accurate. Due to this curvature perception issue & the pockets being 2x the ball size, practically this means that the 3/4 ball (15 deg) shot and tiny variations of it can make lots of shots covering a wide range of thick shot angles, and the 5/8 fraction (between 3/4 & 1/2 ball) is almost impossible to actually see & can basically be ignored. Similarly 1/2b perception (CTE, 30 deg) can be used to make a lot more shots than is intuitively obvious, as the thinner the cut angle, the smaller the ball fraction becomes, as there is literally much less contact area/line to physically see, even if one was hunting the actual contact point or virtual slice.

CTC & CTE references are very easy for anyone to see and to align our center vision & stance to during PSR and I believe this approach resolves numerous issues with some of the other CTE and traditional fractional aiming approaches, all of which have you attempting to visualize some form of semi imaginary points on the OB, and wrestling with confusing pivot concepts. More specifically, when staring at balls for hours on end visualizing the actual tiny physical contact points or imaginary fraction lines on the OB can be difficult to perform reliably & are very optically/mentally stressful for many folks. This approach also resolves the common question often posed by folks new to these approaches which is: “well, how to I determine what fraction/angle/shotline is correct to use for the shot I’m looking at?”. Brian developed a very cool math based system for addressing this issue: Poolology. IMO his system is facinating, but still quite complex and not necessarily practical to implement on the table, at least not for me, and not so easy to teach. In CJ’s approach, its very easy to first determine whether a cut is thick (CTC) or thin (CTE). From there, with practice one can quite easily determine if center tip, 1/4, 1/2, or full tip inside offset makes the cut - even in early stages, when developing the feel for this, one can simply rapidly mentally cycle through those options and arrive at a solution very quickly. In reality, something like 80-90% of most pool cut shots are < 35 degrees, so for the vast majority of our game indexing a 1/4 to 1/2 tip inside from CTC or CTE makes the shot. With practice this turns into more of an analog triangulation system, essentially a feel approach, based off the very simple fundamental CTC/CTE alignments.

In my mind all these CTE ish systems are in fact derived from basic 1/4b fractions, and the reason they all work pretty well is that our human visual processing & proprioception systems operate on contrast & are concentric in nature. This means that we automatically look to the edges & centers of things, and we can easily bisect objects & spaces into into halves. This “simplified” approach based on CTC/CTE builds on these concepts and reduces complexity even further. There is a related very simple algorithm in computer science known as binary search. Babies intuitively point at things from birth - by age 5 most of us can look at a light switch on the wall one time, look away, and then again blindly point at it - 80% of folks will hit it the first time, other 20% will get it after only 2-3 tries. Try it right now. These natural visual systems can be further developed through education & training.

As I mentioned earlier in the thread, I think the addition of a secondary visual reference line which I call the “inside edge reference line”, when coupled with the CTC/CTE lines, (inside edge of CB to inside edge of OB on CTC, and inside edge of CB to center of OB for CTE) is a very powerful construct to help reduce parallax issues during PSR.

There you go - not really the simple explantion you asked for, but the result on table is quite simple and at least it doesn’t take a book. My take on things, since you asked - just some views from some nerdy pool bum on the Internet.

Cheers ✌️

"A wonderfully convenient relationship that I find very helpful in the approach and not mentioned in any literature that I’ve seen is that a full tip of the avg pool cue size (12.5 mm, or 1/2”) roughly equates to 1/4 of a 2.25” pool ball and a 1/2 tip roughly equates to a 1/8 ball (and of course 1/4 tip roughly equals 1/16b)."

This concept is used and mentioned in Poolology. Using the cue tip/shaft as an alignment tool with basic fractional references is a very useful aiming method.

You are using 2 OB references and offsetting your perspective of the shot based on what looks right - half a tip, quarter tip, whatever... The gaps and exact offsets needed rely on experience, which can eventually become accurate with table time. Initially, however, it's guesswork... trial and error.

The beauty of using aiming references on the ob (like ob center or edge, or halfway between center and edge) is that you give your mind the same consistent visual data on every shot. Naturally, with enough practice, you'll be able to recognize when a given shot is slightly thinner or thicker than a 3/4 aim or a 1/2 ball aim.

Using the tip/shaft as an aiming tool makes fine-tuning pretty simple. For example, when you recognize that a shot needs to be hit slightly thinner than a 1/2 ball, you might aim so that the inside 1/4 or 1/8 of your tip looks aligned to the ob edge, rather than the center of your tip being aligned for the edge.
 
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The only lasers I'm quite familiar with are the ones on rifles and pistols. Pistol lasers would be more akin to what I see possibly beneficial for pool and a pool cue while stroking. What kind of laser do you have and where is it set up? On a rail?
On the cue? On the ceiling or wall?

With a pistol, the laser/gun can be used in the house without live ammo for dry firing scenarios to see if the gun is in fact being aimed exactly on target as well as what happens when the trigger is pulled. Some pistols have a long trigger pull as well as hard trigger pull. The way the gun is being gripped, the strength of the finger, and the smoothness of the actual pull on the trigger to hold it online can have the laser jumping all over the place from its original position. It creates a major problem for sharp accuracy. From that feedback, different things can be worked on to minimize movement/misaiming from happening.

If a laser for pool is anywhere else other than on the cue, I would see it as pretty much worthless. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If it isn't on the cue, where and how does the benefit come in?

And if it is on the cue, I can think of all kinds of different experiments to test the variables that go into making a better stroke for accuracy.

Btw, I thought you already were retired.
I assumed you had seen my video on this when you came back to the forum deriding me and saying only beginners use lasers, Laser Man, and so on. I now understand where your ignorance on the subject comes from. You never saw the thread I started. It's all good, though. When you aren't talking about CTE you are actually quite knowledgeable so I'd welcome any real discussion, possibly in that thread to keep it on topic. Thanks for looking:

 
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I assumed you had seen my video on this when you came back to the forum deriding me and saying only beginners use lasers, Laser Man, and so on. I now understand where your ignorance on the subject comes from. You never saw the thread I started. It's all good, though. When you aren't talking about CTE you are actually quite knowledgeable so I'd welcome any real discussion, possibly on that thread to keep it on topic. Thanks for looking:

Nope, I never saw that video or thread. We see things in a similar fashion except it's reversed. When you aren't bashing CTE and exhibiting ignorance about any of it, you come up with some interesting ideas.

There is one thing you did years ago that resulted in gaining my respect which showed your shooting skills when Colin Colenso
created a fairly difficult test with numerous balls at all kinds of different tough cut angles. The test was to see how many of them could be pocketed. I don't recall too many (if any) videoing their test because they didn't want to make an ass of themselves missing balls for the world to see. It was far better to talk a good game in anonymity and make everyone "think" they were good players based on wordsmanship rather than show their ass for what it really was.

Only you and I did the entire test without missing. So, credit has to be given when credit is definitely due. I know how tough the test was to string ALL of them together in one take.

Too bad you can't allow yourself to open your mind about any of the Hal/Stan stuff.

What I described about the laser and how to set one up on the shaft would be interesting and revealing but I'm not sure it's really doable. It being there could weight it in such a way to throw off the balance during the stroke to never get a bona fide result.
 
What I described about the laser and how to set one up on the shaft would be interesting and revealing but I'm not sure it's really doable. It being there could weight it in such a way to throw off the balance during the stroke to never get a bona fide result.
Sometimes you learn things you didn't know you were going to learn. For example, by using the laser that projects a line onto the cue I found out that I was seeing center ball for follow but not for draw. After a bit of experimenting I found that my eyes were probably not parallel to the table. When I cocked my head to make the eyes parallel, and I believe also equidistant to the cb, I was then able to see center ball for draw and follow.

By knowing that your cue is set up to be on the correct line it frees you up to look for other issues that cause the stroke to go offline, such as a rushed transition or tense fingers, etc. If you never know the cue is on the right line you can't be sure you aren't swooping into position, or making other adjustments. Removing variables when possible is good.
 
Too bad you can't allow yourself to open your mind about any of the Hal/Stan stuff.
I always try to be open minded. If you see my original posts on AZ asking about CTE I was very ready to learn something I didn't know, and that I was unable to learn from Hal. That's how you learn things and if you are really a scientist you should be ready to accept new ideas. However, being skeptical and requiring data is also important.

What I described about the laser and how to set one up on the shaft would be interesting and revealing but I'm not sure it's really doable. It being there could weight it in such a way to throw off the balance during the stroke to never get a bona fide result.
Yeah, I think mounting a laser on the cue would lead to tons of noise. I tried those electronic gizmos for my cue a long time ago but it was worthless. To be fair, I think I had an early version. I prefer things I can see with my own two eyes, but if their technology actually worked then it would be interesting as well. At this point, though, I don't think my biggest improvement will come from additional work on the stroke.
 
I always try to be open minded. If you see my original posts on AZ asking about CTE I was very ready to learn something I didn't know, and that I was unable to learn from Hal. That's how you learn things and if you are really a scientist you should be ready to accept new ideas. However, being skeptical and requiring data is also important.
Original posts from AZ were too long ago. They still couldn't possibly be archived.
Why weren't you able to learn from Hal? He didn't teach on forums, he teased and messed with heads. Nothing
he liked more than twisting brains of those he knew were doubters and naysayers. But he would give all the time
in the world to those who had a desire to listen, execute what he said to do, and learn over the phone. I should add
in person also. He knew what he created was radical, but by damn it certainly worked and was an eye opening,
astounding experience. I remember going through it the first few sessions and just laughing while saying out loud,
"how in the f**k can this POSSIBLY be working?" And Hal would then laugh his ass off and say, "set it up again".

The only data that's important is "are balls going in?"
 
Original posts from AZ were too long ago. They still couldn't possibly be archived.
Why weren't you able to learn from Hal? He didn't teach on forums, he teased and messed with heads. Nothing
he liked more than twisting brains of those he knew were doubters and naysayers. But he would give all the time
in the world to those who had a desire to listen, execute what he said to do, and learn over the phone. I should add
in person also. He knew what he created was radical, but by damn it certainly worked and was an eye opening,
astounding experience. I remember going through it the first few sessions and just laughing while saying out loud,
"how in the f**k can this POSSIBLY be working?" And Hal would then laugh his ass off and say, "set it up again".

The only data that's important is "are balls going in?"
OK, well let's agree to disagree.
 
Its a polite way of saying that I think you are wrong without invoking another argument.
If I consistently make more balls doing it, as well as having an easy time seeing it as laid out with fewer misses than what I used to use (contact points), and I now choose to play that way instead of contact points, fractions, the arrow, overlaps, shot picture, lights...how am I wrong? It's MY game and after 30 years I'm 100% certain I know it better than anyone else.
 
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