Aside from sharking, give me one good reason why someone would do that? Seriously.
Cue Chalking Crutch
- Thread starter RicNic
- Start date
Shooting hand = dominant hand that moves the cue (rear)
Bridge hand = on table, near the tip (front)
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
The miss/miscue is in their head and they have to get it cleared so they can get their head right for the next inning. It's not necessarily a sharking move, it's often a tell that they are struggling mentally. If your opponent misses/miscues and chalks afterwards you should see that as a boon. They are questioning their game and what went wrong. Best to leave them a lock up safety when you see them do this. BIH is moments away.
This is an excellent post! A reminder that we can see our opponent's behavior as annoying, possibly affecting our own game, or as a weakness affecting theirs. I see attempted sharking in the same light, an acknowledgement that their game isn't good enough to win.
Hu
I've done it ever since I started playing. I don't think about it, I just do it. I learned to chalk the cue after EVERY shot, not just the ones I made.
Yeah, hit me with it! See what happens!
Finally, something new to talk about, post shot routines. Mine is usually cursing, whacking the cue on the light, and cutting a loud fart as I flounce into my chair! A heavy diet of beans, cabbage, and sweet 'taters helps maintain this rigorous routine, at least the last part of it!
Hu
SSDiver2112
2b || !2b t^ ?
Never thought about or noticed it before. I've always chalked with my shooting hand. Now I'm going to be watching everyone tonight.
This video from a few hours ago is a perfect illustration of the topic.
That kind of chalking is a weapon, not a crutch.This video from a few hours ago is a perfect illustration of the topic.
I don't mind if my opponent does all of that stuff as long as they miss.
I wonder how many people watching had some kind of bet going.
This simply isn't true. I prefer an exact nickel shape. My tip flattens consistently in the middle and slightly rounds at the edges of the tip as I play. Reshaping back to a nickel shape is necessary through the life of the tip. I need my tip to be exact and I use it exceptionally well when it is.
Tips are like tires on a car, they wear with use.
As far as chalking rituals go, who cares? Some of the best players to ever live were habitual over-chalkers. That's why master's chalk is king, it's dirt cheap and works well enough.
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Both things are true. Chalk is functionally essential to prevent miscues and without it English of any kind would be near impossible.
For most players technique is far more often to blame for a miscue. Meaning no amount of chalk would make up for the faulty stroke.
Of course, if your not chalking correctly or often enough that margin for error decreases and what normally may have been close enough will result in a miscue.
It is better to over chalk than to under chalk. My only qualm is when someone drills away at the chalk right over the table. There's already enough chalk on the table bed as it is.
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I look at the tip when a miscue occurs, not to blame the tip, but to understand where the contact was on the tip. That will tell me how the tip hit the cue ball and how far of the hit was. This is important feedback to diagnose and correct the stroking error.
It is also to examine any inconsistent wear brought about by the miscue that may need to be addressed. A flat spot or rolled over edge of the tip can lead to more inconsistent hits if the damage is not corrected.
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Most players are at the APA 3 level and lower. Their miscues are very often because they never learned how to chalk. Drilling a hole down the middle of the chalk often gets no chalk on the tip. Most pool players drill holes -- just look at the chalk in the typical pool hall or bar.
And when that level of player tries to hit the ball off-center for draw or some spin on the cushion, what they learn is to hit the ball in the center because they miscue.
For players who run a rack of nine ball a few times per night, you may be right, but they are a tiny percentage of pool players and likely a minority of the readers here.
That is why I included this in my post:
"Of course, if your not chalking correctly or often enough that margin for error decreases and what normally may have been close enough will result in a miscue."
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There is no such thing. A routine is not a crutch...
That's an obsessive/compulsive disorder, (OCD).This video from a few hours ago is a perfect illustration of the topic.
Thanks for calling me a liar.
If you actually read the post, I wrote that it will not usually need reshaping OFTEN. Of course it needs maintainance. This concept also varies between different types of tips and manufacturers. There are different grades of tires as well, that wear at different rates.
Have a great day Mr. Perfect
What you are discribing is a bit unusual, in my experience.
To have a tip flatten in the middle is not normal unless you’re doing a lot of aggressive scruffing or even worse doing the “fire starter” routine, which I’ve noticed recently is actually a somewhat common (bad for your tip/play, good for your cue mechanic) practice.
Lou Figueroa
I'm not sure what you mean by "fire starting routine". If it's a reference to grinding with the chalk, that is certainly not the technique that I use. The milk duds I use don't really need scuffing, the regular shaping keeps them holding chalk just fine.
Through the course of normal play, for me, that is the way my tip wears. I'm not saying it goes dead flat, but it certainly flattens from a nickel radius in the center of the tip. It is consistent and requires shaping back to a nickel radius regularly.
I am careful in my shaping routine only taking enough material to return to a prefect radius. I get good life out of my tips, but I don't try and preserve them as long as I can. I'd rather a new tip two or three times a year than an improperly shaped tip, for me.
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Talking about tips now, I play with a fifteen cent tip! Years ago I decided I would play with a dime radius on my tip. Went through a moori in a month. Then I decided to try a nickel radius. The tip lasted much longer and I played just fine. Now I play with a tip shaped to a nickel and ungroomed other than an occasional deglazing. After forty or fifty hours of play I found the tip had flattened slightly and it was now about halfway between a nickel and a quarter, AKA fifteen cents. Seems right as I rarely juice the cueball just to watch it spin and cut didoes around the table.
Hu
Hu