How do these diamond tables play so badly? vid

I'm just concerned with the profile being correct.
If the rails had Superspeed, not Monarch Superspeeds, then they're a direct fit. The GC3 rails with the threaded inserts to bolt the casting to are the newer Superspeed cushions. The GC3 version 1 & 2 still had the GC1 bent T mount to bolt the castings to.

I doubt anyone in the tournament had a Fargo rate BELOW 500 like you do😅🤣🤣😅🤣🤣
 
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You have made a bunch of noise for 15 years but have never fixed anything. Diamond Blue tables still are boingy pinball machines, and still bank short. It affects every single shot when playing position. We are not talking about only playing a bank shot.

Now are you implying the difference is the rail stiffness? It may be (although I personally doubt it). If it's as simple as that though, why didn't Diamond just switch to poplar instead of Oak rails. They would have saved money and had a better playing table. A win-win for everyone. I'm betting it's something beyond the rail stiffness though. 3 rail bolts vs 4 I don't buy. You can bank on a GC right in front of the rail bolt, then bank exactly in the middle of two rail bolts, and it will be the same.
What???? No complaining about how the Diamonds played during the US Open 9 ball??? That's because THOSE were pool players, NOT amateurs like you!!!😅🤣😂
 
If the rails had Superspeed, not Monarch Superspeeds, then they're a direct fit. The GC3 rails with the threaded inserts to bolt the casting to are the newer Superspeed cushions. The GC3 version 1 & 2 still had the GC1 bent T mount to bolt the castings to.

I doubt anyone in the tournament had a Fargo rate BELOW 500 like you do😅🤣🤣😅🤣🤣
I thought all GC3 went to the newer Superpeeds ? Did some of the earlier GC3 have the Monarchs?
 
The first
I thought all GC3 went to the newer Superpeeds ? Did some of the earlier GC3 have the Monarchs?
GC3's looked exactly like the GC2, except the rail blinds bolted up to the rails. Same silver pocket casting and silver trim, bronze ball tray trim and feet, same GC1 rail hardware, except the extruded aluminum molding was replaced with rail skirts that were deeper, and bolted to the bottom of the rails with 20ea 5/6"x 2" skirt bolts. Same cushions too.
 
That's because they're unmolested Diamond tables, having NOT been installed in a pool room somewhere already!!!
I'll strongly disagree with that, because I have 20 years of experience playing on Diamonds. The test will be if these exact tables end up sold to locals, how they end up playing in a year.
 
I'll strongly disagree with that, because I have 20 years of experience playing on Diamonds. The test will be if these exact tables end up sold to locals, how they end up playing in a year.
Under your analogy, GC1's should still play the same as they did when they were first built!!😉
 
I'll strongly disagree with that, because I have 20 years of experience playing on Diamonds. The test will be if these exact tables end up sold to locals, how they end up playing in a year.
Apply for a job with Predator, I heard they're looking for real smart design engineers, that can design the future super pool tables, then you can change your screen name to "Imrichagain"
 
Under your analogy, GC1's should still play the same as they did when they were first built!!😉
No, but ironically they usually do. Their cushions are still usually just fine if the original ones.

I'm sure you realized I picked "one year" because the cloth would be worn, but the tables would still be "un-hacked" and Diamond factory originals. Don't let logic hit your backside:p:p
 
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That's the funny part. Pretty much every other brand in the past 50 years plays good, including Valleys, including junk home tables (unless their cushions have rotted out). When the CB hits the rail, you expect a certain amount of speed to be taken off the ball. On the Diamond rails it's the opposite, that the rails don't kill the speed at all. (I know this is impossible from a physics standpoint, just how it seems to the naked eye in comparison to other tables).
I would say that most tables built in the last maybe 50 or so years have been playing in a way where the balls would conform to a kicking or banking system, derived from billiard tables. Granted, there are shitty tables that bank inconsistently because of poor design, bad quality or mostly poor setup. But I'm talking about competently set up tables from reputable manufacturers. I'm not the biggest fan of for instance Dynamic brand tables which have been used on the Eurotour. If, however, I get too a venue and there is nothing extreme going on regarding heat or humidity, I could expect such a table to conform to most billiard systems with only minor adjustments. In- and of itself, that may not seem important, but it actually really is! It means that a person playing on almost any other brand of table can fairly easily adjust and play his best game when coming for a tournament. The same would be true of Gold Crowns in decent shape or even the 1000 different(quality) Chinese knockoffs of Gold Crowns, for the most part. There is probably some exception somewhere, but I have not encountered it.

Ever wondered why you don't generally see steel cushions? Snooker has steel backed cushions, but not steel. They tried because they have inferior side mounted rails which are made of wood and generally can play rather inconsistently. You actually need the soft wood behind the cushion, but having a steel backing is necessary for this type of rail to be consistent. Pure Steel banks short because it's too stiff. Wood can bank too stiff too. If you, say, make subrails out of tropical hardwoods or some sort of hight tech ply and have too many bolts on each rail. Pair that with bouncy rubber, and what do you get? Cushions that are too bouncy for the spin to take properly. The ball just shoots away and has no time to grab by sinking in to the cushion properly. And so it comes short, and fast. Sure, you'll be able to move the ball a lot, but you will lose range of possible movement. It will all be shiftet to the short side. Lengthening will be difficult.

Or you could have the rubber angled incorrectly causing the ball to hop or having too much or too little rubber behind the point (point angled up). Techically you can angle the nose of the cushion up or down as long as the height of the nose is right, but the play will be completely different. Pointing the nose too far down (rail too thick) will also interfere with cueing. All that stuff is important, along with for instance having the control fabric on the cushion on the lower or high side. It all comes together. If you want a more compliant rail, you may get some (usually minor) troubles with consistency and in extreme cases lose a lot of speed. if you want a very stiff rail that is highly consistent out of pure rigidity, the play will be off, too short, too fast. I think Diamond went too far towards the stiff side. I like tables to play like a traditional billiards table, so I don't like Diamonds play. JMO
 
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I just saw on FB from Mark G he was hired by Brunswick to work with their engineers to help on the GC7.

Hey Glen, I thought Brunswick was gone? As in zero staff? As in zero technical knowledge? As in zero marketing department? As in zero know anything about pool tables? Isn't that what you've said this thread? Better get on the horn to your good buddy and set him straight that the people he will be working with are ghosts;)
 
I just saw on FB from Mark G he was hired by Brunswick to work with their engineers to help on the GC7.

Hey Glen, I thought Brunswick was gone? As in zero staff? As in zero technical knowledge? As in zero marketing department? As in zero know anything about pool tables? Isn't that what you've said this thread? Better get on the horn to your good buddy and set him straight that the people he will be working with are ghosts;)
Your intentional antagonizing of RKC aside, he is definitely one of the best billiard table mechanics in the U.S.. You might wanna consider not burning bridges. He has helped me out with specs and knowledge that he could have easily charged for, and all I had to do was ask.

This whole thread is not a good look, sir.
 
I actually like Glen a lot, and have told him on PM a few times over the years. Obviously I completely disagree how the cushion should play. Glen has a deep passion for our sport and it shows in his work and help of anyone who asks. Yes we banter with each other over this cushion issue.
 
I would say that most tables built in the last maybe 50 or so years have been playing in a way where the balls would conform to a kicking or banking system, derived from billiard tables. Granted, there are shitty tables that bank inconsistently because of poor design, bad quality or mostly poor setup. But I'm talking about competently set up tables from reputable manufacturers. I'm not the biggest fan of for instance Dynamic brand tables which have been used on the Eurotour. If, however, I get too a venue and there is nothing extreme going on regarding heat or humidity, I could expect such a table to conform to most billiard systems with only minor adjustments. In- and of itself, that may not seem important, but it actually really is! It means that a person playing on almost any other brand of table can fairly easily adjust and play his best game when coming for a tournament. The same would be true of Gold Crowns in decent shape or even the 1000 different(quality) Chinese knockoffs of Gold Crowns, for the most part. There is probably some exception somewhere, but I have not encountered it.

Ever wondered why you don't generally see steel cushions? Snooker has steel backed cushions, but not steel. They tried because they have inferior side mounted rails which are made of wood and generally can play rather inconsistently. You actually need the soft wood behind the cushion, but having a steel backing is necessary for this type of rail to be consistent. Pure Steel banks short because it's too stiff. Wood can bank too stiff too. If you, say, make subrails out of tropical hardwoods or some sort of hight tech ply and have too many bolts on each rail. Pair that with bouncy rubber, and what do you get? Cushions that are too bouncy for the spin to take properly. The ball just shoots away and has no time to grab by sinking in to the cushion properly. And so it comes short, and fast. Sure, you'll be able to move the ball a lot, but you will lose range of possible movement. It will all be shiftet to the short side. Lengthening will be difficult.

Or you could have the rubber angled incorrectly causing the ball to hop or having too much or too little rubber behind the point (point angled up). Techically you can angle the nose of the cushion up or down as long as the height of the nose is right, but the play will be completely different. Pointing the nose too far down (rail too thick) will also interfere with cueing. All that stuff is important, along with for instance having the control fabric on the cushion on the lower or high side. It all comes together. If you want a more compliant rail, you may get some (usually minor) troubles with consistency and in extreme cases lose a lot of speed. if you want a very stiff rail that is highly consistent out of pure rigidity, the play will be off, too short, too fast. I think Diamond went too far towards the stiff side. I like tables to play like a traditional billiards table, so I don't like Diamonds play. JMO
You make a very good point. I agree.
 
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