What is the best ferrule material

I haven’t done the research either, I was always under the impression that ivory is a very hard sold hitting feral, but some have told me that it is just the opposite and that it is soft hitting and that an Ivoren feral hits much harder and that is what I would want if wanting a hard stiff hit


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Ivory gives good feedback. You can feel the shot better, imo. I could be delusional in my thinking, but ever since losing mine, nothing hits quite like ivory, imo.
 
Tomahawk is my go to for ferrule material.

I have some Aegis ferrules on hand, but I dislike the finish on them. When I do use one I am having a difficult time getting acceptable results. My best guess is dust from the tip is staining the ferrule but it is too deep to sand off.
Note I offered to redo but they said it was fine since they will be dirty with chalk after the first use anyway.

The bottom one isn’t so bad. Maybe because it was a Triangle tip rather than a Kamui idk.

Has anyone experienced this?

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What chalk do you use that is creating this dust and ferrule discoloration?

I ask because it doesn’t matter to me since all my cues have ivory ferrules
so the chalk brand doesn’t matter since ivory doesn’t discolor from chalk.

However, a lot of my pals play with cues that don’t have ivory ferrules. So
I cleaned their ferrules with toothpaste, told them to use a higher quality
chalk, like Taom, and darn, the ferrules on their cues remain pretty clean.

Most chalk discoloration if from improperly applying chalk. Whenever you
spot a player with chalk on their fingers and hands, betcha a dollar to a dime
they are boring the chalk causing chalk dust to stain their hands and ferrules.
 
A friend shoots hard but he's also a really excellent player. Keeps breaking his tips off and his cue is getting short so I said I can make a ferrule on my lathe any length and size you like and out of your choice of material.
I was thinking maybe it could be an inch long or so, and perhaps be an answer to the issue of his trusty old cue being worn down in length, how about a longer bronze or brass one? the idea was shot down by claims it wouldn't play right. or the tip would snap off.. bronze would add weight at the tip. - perhaps correct?

someone made the point that the table becomes endangered if the tip flies off a brass ferule as the exposed edge can catch the cloth and then we are into needing a new cloth.

one can make them from old ivory, maybe old pianno keys, for a friend, but you can't sell anything made of ivory, its a banned substance.

my pool table has ivory diamonds, I noted in an article about the recreation of a historic table, Brunswick made a replica anniversary edition and they used , it said : " Chinese water buffalo bone" later I realized it was a fancy name and the reasoning was there, they couldn't sell the table new, with ivory diamonds. The term Chinese water buffalo reminded me of something from the Flintstones ;-)
Snake oil? maybe ;-)

"In some cultures, water buffalo bones are believed to have magical or spiritual powers and are used in various ceremonies and rituals"
source:
 
A friend shoots hard but he's also a really excellent player. Keeps breaking his tips off and his cue is getting short so I said I can make a ferrule on my lathe any length and size you like and out of your choice of material.
I was thinking maybe it could be an inch long or so, and perhaps be an answer to the issue of his trusty old cue being worn down in length, how about a longer bronze or brass one? the idea was shot down by claims it wouldn't play right. or the tip would snap off.. bronze would add weight at the tip. - perhaps correct?

someone made the point that the table becomes endangered if the tip flies off a brass ferule as the exposed edge can catch the cloth and then we are into needing a new cloth.

one can make them from old ivory, maybe old pianno keys, for a friend, but you can't sell anything made of ivory, its a banned substance.

my pool table has ivory diamonds, I noted in an article about the recreation of a historic table, Brunswick made a replica anniversary edition and they used , it said : " Chinese water buffalo bone" later I realized it was a fancy name and the reasoning was there, they couldn't sell the table new, with ivory diamonds. The term Chinese water buffalo reminded me of something from the Flintstones ;-)
Snake oil? maybe ;-)

"In some cultures, water buffalo bones are believed to have magical or spiritual powers and are used in various ceremonies and rituals"
source:

I also shoot hard and was also having a problem with tips but I boiled it down to two things - bad glue (now I buy the micro tubes and use once) and lathe issues. The carrier had an absolute minor amount of play so when I "flush" cut the old tip off, the end of the shaft wasn't actually flat, it had more of a concave or convex shape, this didn't allow for an even layer of glue. The solution for me was to put a flat chunk of aluminum on the carrier and run sandpaper between it and the end of the shaft, this makes a perfectly flat surface for the tip to adhere to, haven't had an issue since. A side benefit of this is now I only take off a miniscule amount of the ferrule/shaft when replacing tips as I cut the tip down as thin as possible then sand it off, as soon as you see white, it's done, it's not an immeasurable amount of ferrule being removed, but it's immaterial.
 
What chalk do you use that is creating this dust and ferrule discoloration?

I ask because it doesn’t matter to me since all my cues have ivory ferrules
so the chalk brand doesn’t matter since ivory doesn’t discolor from chalk.

However, a lot of my pals play with cues that don’t have ivory ferrules. So
I cleaned their ferrules with toothpaste, told them to use a higher quality
chalk, like Taom, and darn, the ferrules on their cues remain pretty clean.

Most chalk discoloration if from improperly applying chalk. Whenever you
spot a player with chalk on their fingers and hands, betcha a dollar to a dime
they are boring the chalk causing chalk dust to stain their hands and ferrules.
It is not chalk. It is a new ferrule installation. After putting the new tip on the new ferrule it would trap “dust” from the tip as I sand and polished it.

What I have done since then is to sand and polish the ferrule before installing the tip. This helped a lot. I avoid Aegis if I can.
 
It is not chalk. It is a new ferrule installation. After putting the new tip on the new ferrule it would trap “dust” from the tip as I sand and polished it.

What I have done since then is to sand and polish the ferrule before installing the tip. This helped a lot. I avoid Aegis if I can.
Thanks….I’ve never heard of that happening but then again, my knowledge
of cue making is scant & more importantly, without any real world experience.
 
Different game and weight/size of cueball. Snooker is moving to titanium. Note snooker ferules are just a small band but I always wondered how a titanium feruled pool cue would play.
 
I also shoot hard and was also having a problem with tips but I boiled it down to two things - bad glue (now I buy the micro tubes and use once) and lathe issues. The carrier had an absolute minor amount of play so when I "flush" cut the old tip off, the end of the shaft wasn't actually flat, it had more of a concave or convex shape, this didn't allow for an even layer of glue. The solution for me was to put a flat chunk of aluminum on the carrier and run sandpaper between it and the end of the shaft, this makes a perfectly flat surface for the tip to adhere to, haven't had an issue since. A side benefit of this is now I only take off a miniscule amount of the ferrule/shaft when replacing tips as I cut the tip down as thin as possible then sand it off, as soon as you see white, it's done, it's not an immeasurable amount of ferrule being removed, but it's immaterial.
some glues like epoxy are good at bridging gaps but not normally used for tips. Cyanoacrylate glue is not good at bridging any gap, it has great bonding strength, but only when applied with the parts fitting with some degree of precision. I don't think it bonds so well to itself so if a second chance of positioning is necessary, best to just remove it, start over, rather than trying to re-wet the surface and hope it sticks.
 
for decades and all my ferrules, some are ivory some are other. all are one inch in length as almost all older cues are.

and almost all the greatest players in history until modern players showed up with different ideas used the one inch ferrule and all sorts of heavy materials in them. many ran ten racks of 9 ball and 300 or more in straight pool.
 
using a new tube of super glue gel. on a flat clean tip and ferrule it will not come off without it being cut off if you do it properly.
 
Hello ,

Can someone enlighten me on the difference in ferrule material, why is ivory better and is juma a plastic . is there a decent cheaper ferrule that a lot of people use, maybe Juma as I see that a lot. Trying to further my education in the pool cue market. Thanks
juma not bad
 
Never got an answer to my question about what a good choice for cost effective ferrules for house cues. I don't want the cheap plastic amazon ferules that may not glue well.

While waiting for a suggestion I have been doing some more research to find out.
Two that I have found that might be suitable are:
  • Super XTC ferrules from Atlas
  • Chris Hightower has an inexpensive ferrule that says it is for house cues but has no details on what they actually are.
Any feedback on these or other suggestions?

Thanks,
Scott
 
Never got an answer to my question about what a good choice for cost effective ferrules for house cues. I don't want the cheap plastic amazon ferules that may not glue well.

While waiting for a suggestion I have been doing some more research to find out.
Two that I have found that might be suitable are:
  • Super XTC ferrules from Atlas
  • Chris Hightower has an inexpensive ferrule that says it is for house cues but has no details on what they actually are.
I like the capped and threaded XTC ferrules for house cues. I can almost always clean up and thread the tenons, making installation quick and easy.
 
I dont replace many ferrules but basically if you just order them you are dependent on a certain size but if they are made and sized for the cue, then the maker can adjust the hole so it has a good snug fit. perhaps the case is that they are usually standardized but if the installer wants to clean off old glue , sands the mating surface a little, isn't he changing the OD of the cue near the tip where the ferrule slips overtop? If it's a loose fit do you just fil the gap with glue?

I have a bunch of cheapo cues, motly ben and not worth having.. I was thinking I;d experiment on , many seem to have these cheap plastic ferrules that slip over resulting in a tip larger than the shaft. I figure they were sold as replacement tips and designed for home users to just glue on wihtout any precision fitting.. maybe I need to buy a bot of plastic that is good, I have bronce, or could use cue balls but some of the products people are discussing could be more appropriate.

a lot of those old plastic ones are aged and I think he plastic itself has an age limit before it just gets brittle.
 
I dont replace many ferrules but basically if you just order them you are dependent on a certain size but if they are made and sized for the cue, then the maker can adjust the hole so it has a good snug fit. perhaps the case is that they are usually standardized but if the installer wants to clean off old glue , sands the mating surface a little, isn't he changing the OD of the cue near the tip where the ferrule slips overtop? If it's a loose fit do you just fil the gap with glue?

I have a bunch of cheapo cues, motly ben and not worth having.. I was thinking I;d experiment on , many seem to have these cheap plastic ferrules that slip over resulting in a tip larger than the shaft. I figure they were sold as replacement tips and designed for home users to just glue on wihtout any precision fitting.. maybe I need to buy a bot of plastic that is good, I have bronce, or could use cue balls but some of the products people are discussing could be more appropriate.

a lot of those old plastic ones are aged and I think he plastic itself has an age limit before it just gets brittle.

First absolutely get rid of those Slip tips, they are an abomination. That said, you never know what you will find underneath. Could be a tipless ferrule, a chewed-up ferrule, or just wood.

I normally use Tomahawk. I have 1" blanks I can bore and tap as needed. I also have it in a rod so I can fully customize it when needed.
Repairs need this variation. A cue maker would mostly have their preferred material and design standardized for the shafts they make.
 
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