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I'll let this pass... it's just the wrappin jig... if Mr. Diveney sez his lathe is missing (in plain sight) then it's a different story:D :D :D

Considering the specs mentioned above... I believe it would be much clearer if we know the woods involved... there are woods that'll be dead on to those specs, but some would be too light or too heavy....

A dremel would look good on it:D mmmm.... I think I could see a misalignment there... a few thousandths perhaps... oh and like backlash goin both ways... too inaacurate... dang it joey thrash that thing.... oh I have a small junkyard just outside my shop window... that' very much welcome...

Points are commonly counted as to what is clearly visible on one particular area on the forearm. So what you see at the apex is counted as one... like for a basic 4 or 6 point cue... each point is independent from the other... now if ir they are recut points, points within a point... what to...

Yes I do hit with the cues that I build... on different stages too... with a test shaft, with the actual shaft, without the finish on and after finsihing... even keep it for a week to shoot with it he he he... just makin sure...

Just sit back, relax and have some coffee.... nice to see stuff from posters whacking at each others post but not between cuemakers IMO... Nonetheless, I've made quite a number of friends here:) Happy holidays to everyone!

If it's got that carbide blade I'll take it:D

gimme gimme gimme...:D I bet that would be a monster... very similar to what M.Tucker built... you know what I'm talkin about... CNC all the way man! sell out!:D :p You can give me the chiesels and those cutting bits now.:)

I didn't notice the holes... and the tip end centers are kinda huge...

If I had that machine I could do that in a day:D wood stress anyone?:eek: :D

5/8-10 joint pins??? Those are gonna be pretty big pins I must say... do you mean 3/8-10? 5/8-10s are commonly used as lead screws in small CNC machinery... you could get 3/8 at prathers or atlas... I make my own pins in SS, brass and aluminum

Doing it the full splice way, you need a bigger gap between the base of the points, which results in a more narrow point... but then the base veneers would have to be inlayed at that part which I believe does harm to the full splice contruction... another point is you gotta have a decicated...

Thanks Murray... would that be with both ends having sharp points?:rolleyes:

what would be better, cutting the prong while it's square or after rounding it up?

What are the size of those rounds? It appears that if it were tapered into a forearm, the sleeve would be really thin at the joint area...

Nice wood you got there... Oh btw saw your CNC(sssshhhh!) master ed is building... dang!

It's gonna break up eventually and loosen up again... not a good solution

Keep 'em coming Joe!

curly bubinga forearm buttsleeve leather wrap

just asking Dave...