IMO, getting properly milled, dried, & stress relieved wood is the key to keeping stable wood. Good wood is paramount & prevents most, if not all, issues. I think cue makers experience things & want to avoid it in the future so they look for logical ways to fix the issues. This why cue makers believe seasoning over time, climate controlling the shop, sealing after every cut, waiting so long between cuts, etc. all result in more stable wood. Fact is, all that does is reveal the crappy wood a little slower & fewer at a time so it isn't so shocking to find that the wood you just bought is crap. Don't get me wrong, I don't see anything wrong with processing your shafts that way. I just don't see it as critical. Over a period of time in building, if you keep up with your yields, you'll find a pretty good average for the particular source you have. No matter how you process the wood, that average will stay pretty consistent. Don't believe me? Try it. Maybe it's all BS & maybe it's not. How do you know? I know because I have been experimenting with it for 10+ years. But don't take my word for it. Find out for yourself.
Point is that stressed wood will warp. It doesn't matter how much you baby it or how long you let it hang, it'll warp. Humidify it, dehumidify it, take a bunch of tiny cuts over several years or make those cuts over a matter of months, the warper wood will warp & the good stuff will remain stable. Your yield will not vary much. Worst thing that can happen is you actually do find a way to maximize your yield while the wood is in your shop, then your customers are the ones who find the warpers. Not good for you, or them.
Properly stress relieved wood is the result of relaxing the wood so that the stress on the shell, surface of the wood equalizes with the core. That has to be done AFTER the wood is dry, especially if it's kiln dried. During the drying process, the wood gets what is known as "case hardened". That means the surface dries faster than the core, and shrinks & tightens around the still wet wood at the core. This stresses the wood, and leaves it stressed even when the moisture at the core equalizes to the shell. It's fine if the wood is going to be used as cabinets. But as soon as the wood is ripped into squares, that stress is relieved unequally, more on the fresh cut edges than on the top & bottom surfaces. This is why it warps. It wants to find stress equilibrium again. No matter how long you let it sit or how long it hangs between cuts, it always has stress & the stress is altered after every cut, making it brand new again.
About 30% of lumber is naturally pretty free of this internal stress due to the cut from the mill. And it's not actually free of stress, just has more even stress so warping is less likely. But the rest not so much. 'Properly' air dried wood has the least amount of stress and is actually nearly stress free. But kiln dried wood is dried too fast & uneven(for cues), resulting in maximum stress. Again, no biggie for cabinets, but utterly unsuitable for cues. The wood must be stress relieved after drying. Unfortunately, it is rarely done & I personally don't know of any shaft supplier that does it. It takes a few extra days and requires an extra process beyond just drying, and that costs money. The closest I know is one supplier in Michigan who knows how to avoid most of the stress by the way he mills the logs & dries the wood, which is also very time consuming & requires a keen knowledge of the particular subject of shaft wood. But no other I know of does it, and even his isn't relieved of stress, just doesn't incur nearly as much stress as the typical shaft processors.
I won't go in to how to stress relieve the wood because it's a science all to itself. But it can be done by the builder once you have the wood. Buy wood from anybody you want & as long as you have the tools & knowledge, you can stress relieve wood on your own. Once the shell of the wood is stress equalized with the core, then you pretty much never have to worry about warp. Sure it can & does happen, but not nearly at the level we commonly know in the shafts bought from suppliers or even cut ourselves from boards. Seasoning wood is all BS. Once the wood is thoroughly dry, time doesn't matter anymore. It's the stress that causes movement, and it doesn't just go away with time.....any amount of time. It's there forever until it's equalized. The more severe the stress, the faster & more severe the wood will move. The less severe the stress, the slower & less noticeable it'll happen....but it will happen.
Sorry for the long post. I see a lot of misconception & mysticism with shaft processing & it costs a lot of guys a lot of money. My advice to anybody is to quit wasting money & time on mystical ideas for treating the problem, & take a scientific approach to curing/eliminating the problem. Or chalk it all up as bullshit & keep on keeping on. There's a reason musical instrument manufacturers have their own kilns to further process the already kiln dried lumber they buy