100% performance cue

champ2107

Banned
Hey guys, I thinking about having a cue made and I couldnt care less about the looks of the cue, make it look as plain as u can and i want just a great hitting/feeling cue, what kinda price am I looking at for this cue?
 
champ2107 said:
Hey guys, I thinking about having a cue made and I couldnt care less about the looks of the cue, make it look as plain as u can and i want just a great hitting/feeling cue, what kinda price am I looking at for this cue?
I can build you a really good playing cue for around $500.00 plus shipping and paypal fee's.
Give me a call if you are interested. I am in my shop until 1:30 am most nights.
Thanks!
 
patrickcues said:
I can build you a really good playing cue for around $500.00 plus shipping and paypal fee's.
Give me a call if you are interested. I am in my shop until 1:30 am most nights.
Thanks!

i know it's not really my place to ask but here goes. What types of woods would you use? straight grain maple, purple heart, i hear good things about bocote?
 
IMO, the best cues I have EVER played with were birdseye forearms. The simplest merry widows/plain janes seem to hit the sweetest.

Beefy joints too--the infamous 3/8x10, and in G-10 with a good balance set up to your liking. Metals are good too, but that G-10 is lively, if you're in to that sort of thing.

Those factors should keep the cost down a bit. If you are having something made for you, and aren't going to go the aftermarket shaft route, I would pay the extra for your cuemaker's better or best shaftwood.

edit: OH, price...lol. I wouldn't fall below the $500 tier, unless you know the maker personally. And only then if he's willing to take the time out exclusively for your cue.
 
Impact Blue said:
IMO, the best cues I have EVER played with were birdseye forearms. The simplest merry widows/plain janes seem to hit the sweetest.

Beefy joints too--the infamous 3/8x10, and in G-10 with a good balance set up to your liking. Metals are good too, but that G-10 is lively, if you're in to that sort of thing.

Those factors should keep the cost down a bit. If you are having something made for you, and aren't going to go the aftermarket shaft route, I would pay the extra for your cuemaker's better or best shaftwood.

edit: OH, price...lol. I wouldn't fall below the $500 tier, unless you know the maker personally. And only then if he's willing to take the time out exclusively for your cue.

i've heard that old time cue makers (harvey martin, balabushka) preferred straight grain maple instead of birds eye maple.

i think you might be right about it costing more than 500 though. a lot of cuemakers charge in the neighborhood of 150 for a shaft.
 
Would Brazilian rosewood forearm, bocote or purpleheart forearm with stag collar be considered plane jane?
That'd be a great player imo.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Would Brazilian rosewood forearm, bocote or purpleheart forearm with stag collar be considered plane jane?
That'd be a great player imo.

If it's a JoeyQ, it should be an outstanding player from what I hear.

Personally, I'm shopping a Goncalo Alves forearm :D
 
champ2107 said:
Hey guys, I thinking about having a cue made and I couldnt care less about the looks of the cue, make it look as plain as u can and i want just a great hitting/feeling cue, what kinda price am I looking at for this cue?

Hey Champ,
What if your cue were already built?
I've been building cues for 20 yrs. and performance has always been at the top of my priority list.
To that end, most of my cues would be considered 'janes' because I stay away from inlays. They add nothing to the performance of a cue and only serve to elevate the price. How's that for a philosophy?
I have close to a doz. cues in stock that I think would meet your request.
All are under $500. I built a series of cues that were inspired by a Prather design, exotic wood forearm, wrapless with a 17" BEM handle.
By 'exotic forearm' I mean, Kingwood, Chechen, 2-tone Ebony, Bocote, Cocobolo & BEM. These woods were chosen for their highly desirable 'hit' characteristics.
My cues are 59" in length (29" handle, 30" shaft), 13+mm shaft, Moori tip on most, extended pro-taper and partial phenolic insert. Joints are flat-faced, wood to wood utilizing a 3/8x10 pin. I prefer to build cues that are forward wghted. 19oz, 19" bal., .840" jnt. & 1.240" butt.
Weights are moderately adjustable.
I've never advertised these cues, until now, which would explain why I still have a few. If you're truly serious about performance, I have matching Predator shafts in stock, 314-1 x 30".

If you think you might have an interest in one of these cues, drop me an email (my address is in my signature). Tell me what wood you like in the forearm and I'll send you a pic with the specifics on that cue. It might be worth your time to take a look.

Thank you for allowing me to make this presentation. KJ
 
Only you can decide what's a great hitting cue.

I've only been making cues for a few years, but I've always tried to create what I feel is a solid hitting cue. Would you like to try either of these? If you don't like the hit and send it back in original condition, I'll refund your money (minus shipping cost).

$150 plus shipping for this one.

Curly-Bocote Points.JPG

$225 plus shipping for this one.

Jatoba Handle.JPG
 
6-pie laminated shaft with Ivorine IV ferrule, Kamui tip, black phenolic trim collar. 6-pie laminated Purpleheart butt with Amboyna burl butt sleeve, black phenolic trim collar and butt cap, 3/8"x10 pin. $350.00 plus shipping.
 
You need a plain jane, oil finished sneaky pete.
For some reason, they just seem to hit really really well. I have lost track of how many people have bought one "to break with" and ended up using it to shoot with, because it hit so well.
 
KJ Cues said:
Hey Champ,
What if your cue were already built?
I've been building cues for 20 yrs. and performance has always been at the top of my priority list.
To that end, most of my cues would be considered 'janes' because I stay away from inlays. They add nothing to the performance of a cue and only serve to elevate the price. How's that for a philosophy?
I have close to a doz. cues in stock that I think would meet your request.
All are under $500. I built a series of cues that were inspired by a Prather design, exotic wood forearm, wrapless with a 17" BEM handle.
By 'exotic forearm' I mean, Kingwood, Chechen, 2-tone Ebony, Bocote, Cocobolo & BEM. These woods were chosen for their highly desirable 'hit' characteristics.
My cues are 59" in length (29" handle, 30" shaft), 13+mm shaft, Moori tip on most, extended pro-taper and partial phenolic insert. Joints are flat-faced, wood to wood utilizing a 3/8x10 pin. I prefer to build cues that are forward wghted. 19oz, 19" bal., .840" jnt. & 1.240" butt.
Weights are moderately adjustable.
I've never advertised these cues, until now, which would explain why I still have a few. If you're truly serious about performance, I have matching Predator shafts in stock, 314-1 x 30".

If you think you might have an interest in one of these cues, drop me an email (my address is in my signature). Tell me what wood you like in the forearm and I'll send you a pic with the specifics on that cue. It might be worth your time to take a look.

Thank you for allowing me to make this presentation. KJ


Why do you make the shaft longer than the but?
 
Cuemaster98 said:
Now that's a really nice plain jane for the money. I like the purpleheart forearm and butt sleeve (color of the purpleheart is just right). IMO, a black lizard wrap on this cue, would make it even more classy as a player's cue.

Regards,
Duc.

Thank you for your kind words. Have a Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year.

Good Cuemaking,
 
poolplayer2093 said:
Why do you make the shaft longer than the but?

The short of it is that I make the longest cue that will still fit in an Instroke case. I'm 6 ft. tall and I play a 59/60" cue. I don't build cues for the masses. I build cues for the people that appreciate the same attributes of a cue as I do. I like a 30" 314-1 shaft. These are available on all my cues. I like forward wghting. All my cues are forward wghted. Actually, my personal 314 shaft is 30 3/8" long. The handle, INCLUDING pin is 30 3/8" long. There used to be a time when people would pay extra to have handle & shaft be of equal length.
I've just gotten into the habit of building that way.

What I like in a cue is what goes into my cues. I don't know any other way to do it.....nor do I want to. I can't keep-up as it is now.
So much for the short of it, sorry.
 
KJ Cues said:
The short of it is that I make the longest cue that will still fit in an Instroke case. I'm 6 ft. tall and I play a 59/60" cue. I don't build cues for the masses. I build cues for the people that appreciate the same attributes of a cue as I do. I like a 30" 314-1 shaft. These are available on all my cues. I like forward wghting. All my cues are forward wghted. Actually, my personal 314 shaft is 30 3/8" long. The handle, INCLUDING pin is 30 3/8" long. There used to be a time when people would pay extra to have handle & shaft be of equal length.
I've just gotten into the habit of building that way.

What I like in a cue is what goes into my cues. I don't know any other way to do it.....nor do I want to. I can't keep-up as it is now.
So much for the short of it, sorry.

makes sense to me
 
poolplayer2093 said:
i know it's not really my place to ask but here goes. What types of woods would you use? straight grain maple, purple heart, i hear good things about bocote?
I could use several diferrent types of woods. Some example's are, Curly Maple, Birdseye Maple, Ebony, Cocobola are just a few. Bocote is another one that I use, just not very often. The ones that I have built with it played very good. Really depends on what the customer is looking for.

Merry Christmas!
 
I'm not a cuemaker, but last night I stayed at a Holiday Inn. Okay, I didn't really...but will concur that Bocote is an extremely well playing wood in a cue. Most people have a love/hate relationship with it...they either love the look of it or hate it...not much in the way of middle ground on that one...LoL.

Additionally, rosewood is pretty tried and true, as far as playability goes, as is ebony, for many. I also have an old BEM/BEM veneered Helmstetter full splice cue that plays very lively. Purpleheart is another great playing wood in a cue.

Basically, any of the woods that the older and great cuemakers use/used is likely going to play well....time tested, so to speak.

So far, the responses you have received have been well advised. You need to decide what type of 'hit' you are looking for, and communicate that clearly with whomever you may choose to go with. There really is no such thing as the 'magic' cue...but there are cues out there that are magical, with regards to play. When you find one like that, do not ever turn loose of it...they are extremely far and few between!!

Lisa
 
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