Patrick Johnson said:This offer stands until somebody collects. How long do you think it will take?
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Eternity is my guess.
Patrick Johnson said:This offer stands until somebody collects. How long do you think it will take?
pj
chgo
BRKNRUN said:Please review post #51. Why is that not proof of your OP?
It is common knowledge that if you get hit by semi truck going 50mph vs a go kart going 50mph....the semi truck is going to propel you (aka send you spinning) a much greater distance.....
Did you ever see the video of the chick that steps in front of a train?
A heavier shaft (I would think) qualifies as a different shaft...although they look identical they would produce different results striking the CB at the same speed.....The force has to be applied somewhere....if it is a direct hit to the center of the CB there is no argument that the heavier shaft will propel the CB at a higher rate of speed....(assuming both cues are traveling the same speed at impact of the CB).....So why would this not apply to the amount of spin applied to an off center hit?
Perhaps this could be part of the reason why you always hear people wanting denser shaft wood...It is a bit heavier due to the density of the shaft and thus with the same cue speed will produce more spin.
You could even take it step furthar and say that this could be the best test of proof since you could make the tip size and taper the same......This would also eliminate the argument of the smaller tip being able to strike a different part and less of the CB.
Patrick Johnson said:Spinning the ball more is the only reason you can think of to want a shaft of a certain design?
Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not. I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke. (I have both shafts for a single cue.) As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.Patrick Johnson said:I will pay $100 to the first person who proves that any shaft produces more cue ball spin than another.
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Bob Jewett said:Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not.
I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke.
As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.
Also complicating the question is the fact that both chalk and tip can make a difference, and it's hard to have the same tip on multiple shafts. Also, conditions on the table can change during the course of the test.
BRKNRUN said:Please review post #51. Why is that not proof of your OP?
A heavier shaft ... would produce different results
Bob Jewett said:Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not. I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke. (I have both shafts for a single cue.) As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.
If I were testing such a hypothesis, and I did not have a robot tester available, I'd put it up as a contest: choosing from these 10 cues and any other cue a contestant brings, who can get the most severe angle straight off the cushion? Once that best angle is established, then offer a similar prize if anyone can come within 1 degree with all of the other cues.
Also complicating the question is the fact that both chalk and tip can make a difference, and it's hard to have the same tip on multiple shafts. Also, conditions on the table can change during the course of the test.
Patrick Johnson said:It's colloquially formed on purpose in order to make the definition of the challenge (and of spin) part of the process. I'd settle for "demonstrate convincingly a meaningful difference between two shafts that people play pool with".
Would you really? What is a meaningful difference?
Those are good points that those who claim "spin enhancement" probably don't think of. Thanks.
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Patrick Johnson said:Place a numbered Centennial ball (your "cue ball") on the foot or head spot with the number upright, centered and facing you, and with the little triangles at the equator (see the accompanying picture), aligned straight across the table (pointed at the second diamond on the side rail).
Shoot the "cue ball" directly at the second diamond on the far side rail (so it would bounce straight back at the spot if you hit it without side spin). Position two balls on either side of the diamond as "blockers" to ensure the cue ball hits the rail at the diamond (touching either blocker ball invalidates the shot). To get the spacing right, freeze a third ball between the two blockers, move the blockers apart to create a 1/4" gap on each side of the middle ball, then remove the middle ball.
Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator) with just enough speed to bounce off the far side rail and barely reach the near side rail. Wipe the ball clean before each shot and check the chalkmark after each shot to see where you're actually hitting the ball. Be sure the tip is well groomed and well chalked for each test shot.
Mark where the ball stops at the near rail (put a coin or a piece of chalk there).
Only count shots that you hit just right. If any of the following things doesn't happen, don't count the shot:
- You don't hit the "cue ball" exactly on the edge of the circle at the triangle (equator).
- You don't hit the second diamond on the far side rail exactly.
- The ball stops more than an inch short or long of the near side rail.
You can't replicate these things exactly every time, so hit enough "good" shots so that you can use the average result - say ten "good" shots with each shaft you're testing. If your results for any one shaft aren't closely grouped, then they're not reliable results.
If you want to try more forceful shots, then choose a target distance somewhere after rebounding from the near side rail, say at the middle "long string" or at the far side rail again. Mark the target distance with a coin or piece of chalk and reject any shot that doesn't stop within an inch of it.
pj
chgo
Patrick Johnson said:Place a numbered Centennial ball (your "cue ball") on the foot or head spot with the number upright, centered and facing you, and with the little triangles at the equator (see the accompanying picture), aligned straight across the table (pointed at the second diamond on the side rail).
Shoot the "cue ball" directly at the second diamond on the far side rail (so it would bounce straight back at the spot if you hit it without side spin). Position two balls on either side of the diamond as "blockers" to ensure the cue ball hits the rail at the diamond (touching either blocker ball invalidates the shot). To get the spacing right, freeze a third ball between the two blockers, move the blockers apart to create a 1/4" gap on each side of the middle ball, then remove the middle ball.
Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator) with just enough speed to bounce off the far side rail and barely reach the near side rail. Wipe the ball clean before each shot and check the chalkmark after each shot to see where you're actually hitting the ball. Be sure the tip is well groomed and well chalked for each test shot.
Mark where the ball stops at the near rail (put a coin or a piece of chalk there).
Only count shots that you hit just right. If any of the following things doesn't happen, don't count the shot:
- You don't hit the "cue ball" exactly on the edge of the circle at the triangle (equator).
- You don't hit the second diamond on the far side rail exactly.
- The ball stops more than an inch short or long of the near side rail.
You can't replicate these things exactly every time, so hit enough "good" shots so that you can use the average result - say ten "good" shots with each shaft you're testing. If your results for any one shaft aren't closely grouped, then they're not reliable results.
If you want to try more forceful shots, then choose a target distance somewhere after rebounding from the near side rail, say at the middle "long string" or at the far side rail again. Mark the target distance with a coin or piece of chalk and reject any shot that doesn't stop within an inch of it.
pj
chgo
Bob Jewett said:Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not. I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke. (I have both shafts for a single cue.) As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.
If I were testing such a hypothesis, and I did not have a robot tester available, I'd put it up as a contest: choosing from these 10 cues and any other cue a contestant brings, who can get the most severe angle straight off the cushion? Once that best angle is established, then offer a similar prize if anyone can come within 1 degree with all of the other cues.
Also complicating the question is the fact that both chalk and tip can make a difference, and it's hard to have the same tip on multiple shafts. Also, conditions on the table can change during the course of the test.
Patrick Johnson said:Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator)
Neil said:I feel you should be paying Jay the bet. He was first in mentioning different size shafts. It's obvious to everyone that you can get more spin hitting farther from center...which a smaller shaft can do.