$100 Spin Challenge

BRKNRUN said:
Please review post #51. Why is that not proof of your OP?


It is common knowledge that if you get hit by semi truck going 50mph vs a go kart going 50mph....the semi truck is going to propel you (aka send you spinning) a much greater distance.....

Did you ever see the video of the chick that steps in front of a train?

A heavier shaft (I would think) qualifies as a different shaft...although they look identical they would produce different results striking the CB at the same speed.....The force has to be applied somewhere....if it is a direct hit to the center of the CB there is no argument that the heavier shaft will propel the CB at a higher rate of speed....(assuming both cues are traveling the same speed at impact of the CB).....So why would this not apply to the amount of spin applied to an off center hit?

Perhaps this could be part of the reason why you always hear people wanting denser shaft wood...It is a bit heavier due to the density of the shaft and thus with the same cue speed will produce more spin.

You could even take it step furthar and say that this could be the best test of proof since you could make the tip size and taper the same......This would also eliminate the argument of the smaller tip being able to strike a different part and less of the CB.

Sounds reasonable enough, but the whole point is to provide actual proof and not just a theory. Im not saying your wrong though
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Spinning the ball more is the only reason you can think of to want a shaft of a certain design?

It's a good question, but it misses the point.

Gotcha worried didn't I? :D
 
Well I don't know about how to really prove one shaft generates more spin but I found the Meucci videos to be very compelling in terms of proving that different butt/shaft combinations produce different results when most of the variables are taken out.

http://www.billiard-deals.com/videos/Meucci Black Dot - Power Piston - 2006.wmv

http://www.billiard-deals.com/videos/

Advertisement or not it seems to me like Bob Meucci might be right after all in the way he builds a cue vs. how other people do it.

Hoewver I am certain that the way he conducted the test is subject to scrutiny. The fact that he did it and built a testing apparatus that looks to be quite consistent in the delivery speaks volumes.

Now, Bob claims that the Power Piston/Bulleye Shaft produces more spin but does not show that.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
I will pay $100 to the first person who proves that any shaft produces more cue ball spin than another.

pj
chgo
Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not. I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke. (I have both shafts for a single cue.) As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.

If I were testing such a hypothesis, and I did not have a robot tester available, I'd put it up as a contest: choosing from these 10 cues and any other cue a contestant brings, who can get the most severe angle straight off the cushion? Once that best angle is established, then offer a similar prize if anyone can come within 1 degree with all of the other cues.

Also complicating the question is the fact that both chalk and tip can make a difference, and it's hard to have the same tip on multiple shafts. Also, conditions on the table can change during the course of the test.
 
Bob Jewett said:
Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not.

Do you mean because the relatively large squirt force would act counter to the spin? I could buy that, but it wouldn't be a test in the spirit of the challenge.

I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke.

This is more within the realm of real life differences. How would you test it?

As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.

It's colloquially formed on purpose in order to make the definition of the challenge (and of spin) part of the process. I'd settle for "demonstrate convincingly a meaningful difference between two shafts that people play pool with".

Also complicating the question is the fact that both chalk and tip can make a difference, and it's hard to have the same tip on multiple shafts. Also, conditions on the table can change during the course of the test.

Those are good points that those who claim "spin enhancement" probably don't think of. Thanks.

pj
chgo
 
So I might have a way to test cues ... do you have an accurate objective method to measure spin rates (and velocity, though that is MUCH easier) Patrick ?

Dave
 
Bob Jewett said:
Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not. I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke. (I have both shafts for a single cue.) As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.

If I were testing such a hypothesis, and I did not have a robot tester available, I'd put it up as a contest: choosing from these 10 cues and any other cue a contestant brings, who can get the most severe angle straight off the cushion? Once that best angle is established, then offer a similar prize if anyone can come within 1 degree with all of the other cues.

Also complicating the question is the fact that both chalk and tip can make a difference, and it's hard to have the same tip on multiple shafts. Also, conditions on the table can change during the course of the test.

I would think that a frictionless surface would be needed. I also think that the tips should have the same hardness, measured with a Durometer, I am not sure if the ferrule matters as it is something that the shaft makers claim affects performance. So my thought would be that the ferrule can be different.

However for the purpose of the test perhaps it would be better to simply do different taper/constructions without a ferrule to see what effects that produces.

This is an awful lot to do for $100. :-)

Pat, why don't you simply repost your spin test - the one you used to prove to yourself that no shaft produces more spin than any other and allow people to post videos using that test?

Please diagram it on the CueTable. Wei, if you are reading this and it has already been diagrammed (I could not find it) please post the link.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
It's colloquially formed on purpose in order to make the definition of the challenge (and of spin) part of the process. I'd settle for "demonstrate convincingly a meaningful difference between two shafts that people play pool with".

Would you really? What is a meaningful difference?


Those are good points that those who claim "spin enhancement" probably don't think of. Thanks.

pj
chgo

Um, in fact they do. Almost all the tip makers claim that their product produces "more spin" or allude to it. But I think that you are twisting words here. There is a difference between enhancement and built-in performance. If I had an attachment (like a tip) that would make any shaft spin the ball more then that is an enhancement. However if the performance is different because of the construction of the shaft then that is simply a better performing shaft not an enhanced version of a previously underperforming one.

But again, what kind of low-cost, easy to do test do you propose that can be set up and done by anyone with access to a camera, a table and office supplies?

Just post it please.
 
Patrick,

Are you willing to accept a thought experiment and the application of Newton's laws?

I've convinced myself of this and will work it out on paper if it'll help.

At $100 it's not worth more than a couple of hours work total.

Peace,
Steve
 
The Test

Place a numbered Centennial ball (your "cue ball") on the foot or head spot with the number upright, centered and facing you, and with the little triangles at the equator (see the accompanying picture), aligned straight across the table (pointed at the second diamond on the side rail).

Shoot the "cue ball" directly at the second diamond on the far side rail (so it would bounce straight back at the spot if you hit it without side spin). Position two balls on either side of the diamond as "blockers" to ensure the cue ball hits the rail at the diamond (touching either blocker ball invalidates the shot). To get the spacing right, freeze a third ball between the two blockers, move the blockers apart to create a 1/4" gap on each side of the middle ball, then remove the middle ball.

Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator) with just enough speed to bounce off the far side rail and barely reach the near side rail. Wipe the ball clean before each shot and check the chalkmark after each shot to see where you're actually hitting the ball. Be sure the tip is well groomed and well chalked for each test shot.

Mark where the ball stops at the near rail (put a coin or a piece of chalk there).

Only count shots that you hit just right. If any of the following things doesn't happen, don't count the shot:

- You don't hit the "cue ball" exactly on the edge of the circle at the triangle (equator).

- You don't hit the second diamond on the far side rail exactly.

- The ball stops more than an inch short or long of the near side rail.

CueTable Help


You can't replicate these things exactly every time, so hit enough "good" shots so that you can use the average result - say ten "good" shots with each shaft you're testing. If your results for any one shaft aren't closely grouped, then they're not reliable results.

If you want to try more forceful shots, then choose a target distance somewhere after rebounding from the near side rail, say at the middle "long string" or at the far side rail again. Mark the target distance with a coin or piece of chalk and reject any shot that doesn't stop within an inch of it.

pj
chgo

 

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Patrick Johnson said:
Place a numbered Centennial ball (your "cue ball") on the foot or head spot with the number upright, centered and facing you, and with the little triangles at the equator (see the accompanying picture), aligned straight across the table (pointed at the second diamond on the side rail).

Shoot the "cue ball" directly at the second diamond on the far side rail (so it would bounce straight back at the spot if you hit it without side spin). Position two balls on either side of the diamond as "blockers" to ensure the cue ball hits the rail at the diamond (touching either blocker ball invalidates the shot). To get the spacing right, freeze a third ball between the two blockers, move the blockers apart to create a 1/4" gap on each side of the middle ball, then remove the middle ball.

Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator) with just enough speed to bounce off the far side rail and barely reach the near side rail. Wipe the ball clean before each shot and check the chalkmark after each shot to see where you're actually hitting the ball. Be sure the tip is well groomed and well chalked for each test shot.

Mark where the ball stops at the near rail (put a coin or a piece of chalk there).

Only count shots that you hit just right. If any of the following things doesn't happen, don't count the shot:

- You don't hit the "cue ball" exactly on the edge of the circle at the triangle (equator).

- You don't hit the second diamond on the far side rail exactly.

- The ball stops more than an inch short or long of the near side rail.

CueTable Help


You can't replicate these things exactly every time, so hit enough "good" shots so that you can use the average result - say ten "good" shots with each shaft you're testing. If your results for any one shaft aren't closely grouped, then they're not reliable results.

If you want to try more forceful shots, then choose a target distance somewhere after rebounding from the near side rail, say at the middle "long string" or at the far side rail again. Mark the target distance with a coin or piece of chalk and reject any shot that doesn't stop within an inch of it.

pj
chgo


Why can't you do the test?
 
Whip it stroke-artisic billiards

Mr. Mike Massey and Dr.Cue are artisic (players why do they use pred. Shafts- maybe it's for the ( wip it stroke- which is a timed measurement for side spin !!!
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Place a numbered Centennial ball (your "cue ball") on the foot or head spot with the number upright, centered and facing you, and with the little triangles at the equator (see the accompanying picture), aligned straight across the table (pointed at the second diamond on the side rail).

Shoot the "cue ball" directly at the second diamond on the far side rail (so it would bounce straight back at the spot if you hit it without side spin). Position two balls on either side of the diamond as "blockers" to ensure the cue ball hits the rail at the diamond (touching either blocker ball invalidates the shot). To get the spacing right, freeze a third ball between the two blockers, move the blockers apart to create a 1/4" gap on each side of the middle ball, then remove the middle ball.

Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator) with just enough speed to bounce off the far side rail and barely reach the near side rail. Wipe the ball clean before each shot and check the chalkmark after each shot to see where you're actually hitting the ball. Be sure the tip is well groomed and well chalked for each test shot.

Mark where the ball stops at the near rail (put a coin or a piece of chalk there).

Only count shots that you hit just right. If any of the following things doesn't happen, don't count the shot:

- You don't hit the "cue ball" exactly on the edge of the circle at the triangle (equator).

- You don't hit the second diamond on the far side rail exactly.

- The ball stops more than an inch short or long of the near side rail.

CueTable Help


You can't replicate these things exactly every time, so hit enough "good" shots so that you can use the average result - say ten "good" shots with each shaft you're testing. If your results for any one shaft aren't closely grouped, then they're not reliable results.

If you want to try more forceful shots, then choose a target distance somewhere after rebounding from the near side rail, say at the middle "long string" or at the far side rail again. Mark the target distance with a coin or piece of chalk and reject any shot that doesn't stop within an inch of it.

pj
chgo


I don't get it, how is still suppose to prove/disprove one shaft is spinning cue ball more than another? Human can't apply the exact force to a cue ball, since force needs to be constant to prove that one shaft spin more than another. This test is already flawed. I would think, common sense should be more than enough to prove this. For example, using the same force on the same shaft should have the same result (Not perfect but close enough). If another shaft with different variables have different result, it would imply spin is different. I would think spin is like RPM...the more or less produce by each difference shaft can be shown by distance of cue ball travel.

Or here another fun test to do:

Check out these spin videos....this should be the test for meucci shaft. Have bob machine shoot this shot with different shafts. It would be interest to see which shaft will spin the cue ball more given exact force applied.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3IanL64fiM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fhr-0AARuAY

Duc.
 
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Bob Jewett said:
Well, I'm guessing that a half-inch osmium rod with a tip glued on will be really bad at spinning the ball because of the squirt, but maybe not. I also suspect that you can't spin the ball as well with a 16-mm masse shaft as with a 10-mm snooker shaft using a horizontal stroke. (I have both shafts for a single cue.) As has been pointed out, it's more or less impossible to "prove" anything, so I would say that the question/proposition is not well formed.

If I were testing such a hypothesis, and I did not have a robot tester available, I'd put it up as a contest: choosing from these 10 cues and any other cue a contestant brings, who can get the most severe angle straight off the cushion? Once that best angle is established, then offer a similar prize if anyone can come within 1 degree with all of the other cues.

Also complicating the question is the fact that both chalk and tip can make a difference, and it's hard to have the same tip on multiple shafts. Also, conditions on the table can change during the course of the test.



Wait wouldn't it just stand to logic that a shaft that has less deflection would automatically put more spin on the ball with an off-center hit?

If the ball is deflecting less, there is more energy imparted to the ball since it is travelling on a truer path in comparison to the initial striking angle i.e. less energy is being lost to tangential forces.

Therefore if it is an off center hit, there should be more spin imparted because more energy is transfered into the off center hit.

Jaden
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
Hit the ball right on the edge of the circle and on a triangle (on the equator)

Why???

I thought the argument was whether a different shaft allows "more spin".

It is a proven fact that some shafts allow you to get further out on the edge of the cue ball, therefore allowing "more spin".

I don't think you are staying within the spirit of the argument at all, and are attempting to rig the results.

Russ
 
Neil said:
I feel you should be paying Jay the bet. He was first in mentioning different size shafts. It's obvious to everyone that you can get more spin hitting farther from center...which a smaller shaft can do.

This right here sums it up. No fancy tests needed. If he doesn't pay up just based on smaller tips/shafts, then he never had any intention of paying and this is all just for his entertainment.

Russ
 
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